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Looking for a glow plug relay...

DDT

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A few posts back I had some wiring issues. I found the 24v short to ground and I burnt 3 fuseable links. Links are fixed and gound solved. So I noticed 2 burnt spots on my glow plug relay. very small and they may not be fromt the original issue as the fuseable link feeding it the 24v is fine and I get 24.6 at the "in" post on the relay.

However I think the relay is original so my question is where can you find the original type relay. Napa and auto zone both carry the relay with the controller type as one unit. It has 5 or 6 blades to connect to a controller. It has 4 posts for the wires 2 big and 2 small.

So If I hooked up the napa part to 24v to feed the 24v glow plugs will it fry or is it the same internals? Its $80 from the store and the marked ebay cucv version is usually on there for $30 and is metal. ihave yet to fire mine up after its rebuild but it looks like I'll need to swap it out.

Do we have a controller seperate from the fire wall junction controller? Thanks for any posts... -Taylor
 

doghead

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The cucv wiki has the proper parts listed.

It is very very important that you use the correct relay.
 

K9Vic

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It is very very important that you use the correct relay.
Yes, very true. You can fry your GP card, burn out your driver alternator, or many other bad & expensive parts.

To the OP, you really need to take the time to read the TM and search your question. From what I gather you are talking about a civilian GP relay and that is not the same, not even close. You glow plugs are also 12v not 24v and there are plenty of post explaining that system. Never by a Ford starter relay, they are grounded at the base to one of the small terminal post. That is very bad and will cause the damage I noted.

This is one thread that goes in to great detail about the GP relay and the GP resistor bypass. Also my mistake of using the wrong relay and burning out my GP card, but was able to fix it.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/78979-glow-plug-relay-question.html
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/63366-glow-plug-pass-help-2.html


Relay part number
Napa ST85
O'Riley S603
Autozone U1453 (crosses to S603)
 
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DDT

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Where is the glow plug relay located? The relay, not the 24v junction relay powering the Glow Plugs. I am under the impression that there is a small replaceable relay for the system as well. I saw 3 relays under the dash above the fuse box. Also where is the glow plug circut board located? I am not getting the amber wait ligth on my dash with "key on". As this is a rebuild so I don't know if it worked before. I have a good 24v at the junction relay but none to the glow plugs. I also tried a jumper wire of 12v to the orange wire on the junction relay and it just confirmed that the ignition switch is working.

Its great to tear these [roblems apart one by one as it gives the owner a good breakdown of its operation. i'm guessing my GP card or the 24v junction relay or a possible relay is holding the the glow plugs from getting the power they need.
 

Matt65

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The Glow plug relay is under the hood on the driver's side firewall. The GP Card is under the dash on the drivers side.

You may want to check the -20TM there is a procedure for diagnosing the system.
 
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combatmech

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Safety tip.... If you are working on anything electrical, like the TM states, disconnect your batteries until you are ready to check your work. There are multiple threads about those that didnt with horrible results. I learned the had way with my first truck.
 

Warthog

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Where is the glow plug relay located? The relay, not the 24v junction relay powering the Glow Plugs. I am under the impression that there is a small replaceable relay for the system as well. I saw 3 relays under the dash above the fuse box. Also where is the glow plug circut board located? I am not getting the amber wait ligth on my dash with "key on". As this is a rebuild so I don't know if it worked before. I have a good 24v at the junction relay but none to the glow plugs. I also tried a jumper wire of 12v to the orange wire on the junction relay and it just confirmed that the ignition switch is working.

Its great to tear these [roblems apart one by one as it gives the owner a good breakdown of its operation. i'm guessing my GP card or the 24v junction relay or a possible relay is holding the the glow plugs from getting the power they need.
Have you looked at the TM and the associated wiring diagram for the GP system.

There is only one GP relay and one GP Controller card.

The GP Relay is on the firewall (and is not called a junction relay).

The Controller card is under the dash next to the steering wheel. It is housed in a plastic box about the size of a pack of cigarettes.

The TM 9-2320-289-20 Tech Manual has a great trouble shooting guide for the GP system. It is under the Electrical Troubleshooting section.

Overall the GP is very simple. Not many items to check and test. The nain issues are usually dirty connections.
 

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DDT

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Thanks I was getting confused about the go relay and a small 4 or 5 pin relay. I ordered a new metal body relay as I have the plastic one and it's not switching. So I would like to look at the card to double check but I think I'll carry a spare of both in the truck once I get it fired up. I have the diagrams from cucv electrical as well. I just didn't know where the go board was hidden. Thanks for the quick replies!
 

DDT

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Sorry my posts were from my phone. I should have said GP relay not "go relay". I didnt know before that there was only one main relay in the system. I am glad to know that now! I saw some small relays under the dash but i assume they are the normal head light and etc relays in any car.

The system isnt that crazy after all. I have my new parts enroute so I hope to nail to power issue with the new relay and possible card swap. If anything I'll have a few spares. I hope my wait light comes on witht e new card. I have everything else on the dash working but that.

those that jump their controller do they also lose the "wait light"? I realize thats the point of the manual control but when the card is fired up with the ign switched to on...will the light fire up as well? Just curious. If I have to pop the dash out to check the bulb thats just another adventure. I just want 24v to the Glow Plugs first.
 

gijoe13

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Good luck with getting things squared away. If you haven't yet, please do a search for (doghead relay). This modification can save you from a runaway starter. I have dealt with CUCV Electric and they are great. Search (resistor bypass) too. Again good luck.
 
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mudman

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"dog Head" relay is readily avaiable at your local Napa Store!!. You should also at the same time as the relay upgrade you should do the two other relays that work the Amp gauge and the #2 Alternator (after twenty six years).They are super cheap and all three are mounted on the same bracket. So you will never have to worry about having to open up that area again. Avaialbe at cucvelectric.com. just and Idea. I did it that way.
 

DDT

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New relay installed, Power checked out , next is the card...

OK seeing how I had no Glow PLug "wait" light or could not hear the click, I replaced teh plastic relay with the Napa ST85 metal housing. I rechecked the 24v with key off, checked the 12v line with key on and it has a good ground. And I check to see if it was internally gounded through the body per post and got no conituity, which makes it a known good relay so far.

I Just located the Glow Plug control card under the dash, thanks to all those who helpped in its discovery! So I think I have tracked the problem to the card. I'll pull it out and report, but it looks like cucv electrical is going to have a order in for a card. Now if the card is good....I'll have to trace the wires from the card to the relay, As power is getting to the relay.

I'll let you know.
 

DDT

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Card looks good, no burns or broken soder....so I am trying to solve the mystery of the wait light now. If anyone has the cucv electrical glow plug circut diagram can you tell me what the small stacked rectangles are supposed to represent? there are 2 sets of roughly 15 stacked rectangles in a group and there are 2 sets of them. It shows the wait light source is traveling from the module to the pile of rectangles.

The wires I am looking for are .8 dk blu 507 (4th slot from the top of the module letter D) it enters and exits the blocks then hits the bulb then the fuse box. Maybe thats a sign for passing through the firewall? I was hoping to find a pile of burnt plastic under there honestly to wrap up the case. I am still ordering a new card just to cross that off of the list. I'll start checking power at each pin.

I better call cucv electrical...
 

doghead

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You have not done a though diagnosis yet. A complete proceedure is listed in the -20 TM.

You have a temp sensor that the card reads to operate. It may be bad or disconnected.

Are your Glow Plugs good? 1-3 ohms You tested each one?


There is step by step instructions in the tech manual. Do you know about TMs?
 

DDT

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Thanks I may need to sort out the coolant sensor input for the Glow plug system. I need to print out the TM and knock this thing out. I noticed I have a sensor behind the driverside cylindewr head that has a 3" stem and seems to be a retro fitted part. It is tapped into the rear coolant by pass port. The ports on the rear of the heads are capped from the others I have seen. Its not hard to pop on/off but it looks like it was made at lowes.

I'll take a pict and attempt to post it as well
 

Warthog

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The Cucvelectric diagrams are straight from the TM diagrams.

Read the first few pages of the Troubleshooting section of the TM 9-2320-289-20 or TM 9-2320-289-34 manuals. It will tell you how to read the diagrams.

The "blocks" are the connections. Some are on the firewall plug, some are under the dash. It all depends of which connector you are looking at.
 

mudman

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Thanks I may need to sort out the coolant sensor input for the Glow plug system. I need to print out the TM and knock this thing out. I noticed I have a sensor behind the driverside cylindewr head that has a 3" stem and seems to be a retro fitted part. It is tapped into the rear coolant by pass port. The ports on the rear of the heads are capped from the others I have seen. Its not hard to pop on/off but it looks like it was made at lowes.

I'll take a pict and attempt to post it as well
Your temp sensor may not work right, if it is that far away from the block. It sould just be a little sender on the drivers side below the air cleaner, with two wires juning to it. Very easy to get to and a cheap fix as well. Sounds like some one may have added a bunch of fittings to it.!!
 
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