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Lost Power to One of the 12V Connectors In Fuse Box

chuck0070

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Crossed a wire while working from one of the 12v connectors in the fuse box, (one of the constant 12v supply connectors), anyway small spark, nothing big... but I cant get power from that connector any longer. Everything else works including the other constant 12v supply connection. Is there a fuse for these connections somewhere between the battery and the box? If not, what would cause just that connector to be dead now?

Thanks
 

Warthog

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If you could tell us which 12v connector it is (or a picture) we can trace it and tell you where the problem is.

Some fuses control other fuses.

I tell you this as I HAVE traced every circuit in the dash wiring harness, engine wiring harness and the back end of the truck. I have even taken the fusebox apart to "SEE" where everything goes.
 
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OL AG '89

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That was very helpful... was looking for someone with a past experience with this issue. Thanks anyway.
Chuck,

I wasn't trying to be CUTE, but the EASIEST way to work on the CUCV wiring system is with a TM open in front of you....

I have recently had extended experience with a wiring issue on my 1009 and I spent weeks tracing and evaluating the associated circuits, with help. I would review the wiring diagrams and then begin testing circuits related to the circuit with the issue.
The bottom line is there is no cut and dry answer for wiring issues... each one is a little different from the others.

Which fuse is affected? Are you testing on the power side or the fused side?
Do you know it was working before the "sparks"? Have you checked the wire supplying power from the back of the fuse block?

This could be as simple as a loose connection in the fuse block to a fried connection somewhere in the circuit....

If you read the troubleshooting section of the TM, it will assist you in eliminating those things that should be checked initially and then in sequence.

Like evaluating a transmission issue by checking the air pressure in the right front tire........ not a necessary step for that issue.

We all will help as we can and have, but you have to initiate process by getting to a point in the procedure when you are STUMPED....... then the help will pour in from all directions....

Cooper
 
I know it's too little too late, but always disconnect the batteries when working on you CUCV.
The "I shorted something" post is all too common.
Adding air to a tire, disconnect the batteries. OK, that may be going a little far.
 

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chuck0070

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I have attached a picture of the fuse box and circled in red the affected circuit. You guys are all correct... I have used and should use the TM, I am retired Army and used them... well forever :) One of those times where I am almost tired of fixing stuff and looking for a shortcut... just replaced the transmission which came shortly after a renovation of the interior... I want to enjoy it for a while before I work on it again... Anyway... the problem occured after I was all wired up, I had two wires crossed (power to load) and that caused the short. So... it was an appropriate time for the battery to be connected.... good advice on disconnecting though. The reason for all of this is I have added a stereo and interior lights which I am connecting to a switch panel so I can turn these components on when the ignition is off if I so choose. I added a fuse block with 6 connectors and am finished, everything works as I planned, except the one 12v connector that I screwed up. Everything works fine, just bugs me that I messed that connection up and now I "have to fix it" or it'll drive me nuts knowing it's broken. Thanks All, this is a great site and everyone is always a great help.
 

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Warthog

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That 12v plug is controled by the Marker Light/Courtesy Lamp fuse. It is only 20a or 5a (depending on which diagram you look at). There is a jumper wire from the Marker Lamp/Courtesy Lamp fuse to that outlet and then to the light switch and finally to the park lamps.

This has been visualy verified and documented.

It is only hot when the Service Light switch is in the ON position.

Isn't life grand in the GM engineering department

So if you check, you should have no park lights and no courtesy light.
 

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SGT Estum

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I was working on something similar when I was installing my stereo. I thought I had found a always-hot +12V spot on the fuse block but by the time I got around to actually connecting my spade connector there was no voltage there. I thought I had gone crazy or something, and eventually ended up using the empty GPFU fuse slot for my continuous +12V. I'll be watching to see what you find...
 

Warthog

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I was working on something similar when I was installing my stereo. I thought I had found a always-hot +12V spot on the fuse block but by the time I got around to actually connecting my spade connector there was no voltage there. I thought I had gone crazy or something, and eventually ended up using the empty GPFU fuse slot for my continuous +12V. I'll be watching to see what you find...

The GPFU - A/C fuse is the only "open" hot spot on the M1009 and M1008 series trucks. The M1010 is the only truck that uses that spot.

It is not fused but is controlled by fusable link from the 12v Engine Terminal Block on the firewall.
 

chuck0070

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Warthog, you were dead on correct, I replaced the fuse and all was well..... since that 12V live terminal was jumpered from behind, I would have never thought to look at the fuse panel. You saved me a ton of time and I mean a ton of time. See guys... this is why I asked, rather than spend some amount of time following wire diagrams in the TM... Sure the TM is great, but the wealth of experience on this board is 10 times that of the TM. For sure, I will ask a question here first and learn from all the experience, if I cannot find answers, undoubtly I will crack open the TM and work on it that way. Thanks again for the help. I have installed a 6 terminal fuse block along side the fuse box so i can have additional options for electrical.... I can post pictures if anyone is interested. Was an easy install and everything was procured from NAPA.
 

chuck0070

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Attached are the pictures. I added a 6 terminal fuse block adjacent to the fuse box, I mounted on the plastic tab that extends out. I then added a 4 switch panel where the radio block off goes, these switches power the stereo (shown) and interior lights that I just installed (shown). I can now have music and interior lights when the ignition is off if I choose; additionally I added a 3 port DC power access below and between the cup holders (shown). I will also include picture of the 4 speaker install. Thanks again for the help on the fuse panel.
 

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chuck0070

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More photos, these of the interior lights, speakers, aux 12V outlets and antenna.
 

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Chuck,

Thanks for the pics of your fuse block. That is exactly what I was looking for.
(Search is Great!) :beer:

I know that you posted this thread for help with your wiring problem, but the writeups and walk throughs of modifications on this site are so helpfull.
I hate to re invent the wheel, and know that just about everything I am thinking about doing, has probably been done.

And your mods look great...

So Thanks!
 

chuck0070

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Hampstead, NH
Chuck,

Thanks for the pics of your fuse block. That is exactly what I was looking for.
(Search is Great!) :beer:

I know that you posted this thread for help with your wiring problem, but the writeups and walk throughs of modifications on this site are so helpfull.
I hate to re invent the wheel, and know that just about everything I am thinking about doing, has probably been done.

And your mods look great...

So Thanks!
It is my pleasure. I just joined SS a few months ago and the people on this site have been great, I just want to be able to contribute as others have and as they continue to do. Glad you lke the install, I love tinkering with my M1009 and coming up with new ideas. My M1009 will always be a work in progress. I will keep you posted. :)
 
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