Lug Nut torque on M35

[neilhendrix]

Quick Question,, Haven`t found in the TM yet. Anyone know the torque spec on the lug nuts for the deuce

Thanks Neil

 

[doghead]

search the forum?

 

[doghead]

Search for " lug nut torque" in the deuce forum. Select "find all terms", you should find 8 matches. Here's one with the info you need in it... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=15368&highlight=lug+nut+torque . It just took me about 5 minutes to find this. I knew it had been covered in the past. I did try a couple of other search terms (lugnut torque, lugnuts)before finding the 8 results. Practice searching and try to search for key words.

 

[rsh253]

Hey Neil,

If you need to buy the Budd wrench or sockets for the lug nuts, let me know & I'll let you know where I bought mine.

My rattle gun is for cars & is too small. I loosen & torque the lug nuts with a budd wrench & length of pipe. I figure I can get pretty close to the right torque that way.

-Russ

 

[oifvet]

Some where amongst (is that a word?) all the lug-nut torque info here, you should also spot additional information on specs when using anti-seize v. no anti-seize.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index....&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=antiseize

(Oooooooooo! I hope I didn't just throw gasoline on a lit match!)

 

[maddawg308]

I have a geared lug nut wrench and I just lean my full weight on the bar to tighten it up, it's seemed to work out so far.

 

[DanMartin]

I use a big 1" impact wrench and a torque stick to get the torque right. They run about $75.00 each and are a lot less hassle than a torque wrench to get them just right (basically with a TS you hit the trigger on the impact until the socket stops moving and you're done).

http://www.torquestick.com/

Remember that on the budd duals, the inner (cap) and outer (bolt) torques are different.

 

[neilhendrix]

Thanks for ALL the info . Much help indeed. I had to use a torque mulitpier to get lugs loose today. Now I know this was way to much. putting them back I had my 1/2 inch drive on 250# and wouldn`t click. I used an impact wrench with a full load of air on the compressor. My I W is supose to go up to 350#. I think I `ve got it .

Thanks Neil

 

[chipola]

watch your torque, i 've got one now some lugnut put on . the nut wrung the threads off on stud . time to replace whole hub once i cut off old nuts. dud

 

[KaiserM109]

I need to look up the same info, so thanks for posting it.

Something my dad taught me that has made a lot of sense since then is that it is harder to get a nut off than to put it on. Don't believe that? It has to do with 'starting friction'. It takes a larger amount of force to get something moving than to keep it moving because of 'starting friction'. This means, just to throw some numbers at it, if you are applying 50 ft lb when you turn the nut around and stop, it will probably take 55 to get it started again.

If you put all you have into tightening a nut, you will be in trouble when it is time to take it off.

Another thing, look at the letter stamped on the end of the stud before you start cranking. I know, I know, "Left is always left and right is always right." My M37 in the Army had had the brake drums switched diagonally (they are interchangable front-to-back) so that I had right hand lugs on both sides of the back and left on both sides of the front.

Also, someone might have replaced a stud with the wrong one.

Arlyn
PS ' Just read the post: "400 to 450" !!?? No wonder the tire busters in the motor pool were always big guys!!

 

[bottleworks]

Time to replace whole hub once i cut off old nuts.

No, don't replace the hub. The studs are replaceable. This holds true from a Honda to a Deuce to a bus.


Saturn Surplus stocks studs and lugs. http://www.saturnsurplus.com/m35/m35-6.htm

Wheel Stud - F/R - Left 5306-00-797-9320 $6.00
Wheel Stud - F/R - Right 5306-00-740-9555 $6.00