• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Lug wrenches for LMTVs?

Awesomeness

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,811
1,510
113
Location
Orlando, FL
What do people carry for a lug wrench? Do they make big ones this size? Are the lugs actually metric or imperial, both seem to fit?
 

TNriverjet

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,170
22
38
Location
Nashville, TN
I use the geared torque multiplier to break them loose, but it's gears seem kind of weak for tightening. I carry one of these in the small cavity in the front edge of the bed for spinning nuts and tightening. You can't break it unless you are godzilla, and it can really get those lug nuts snugged up nicely. No gears to fail and the longer your steel bar, the more torque you can apply! I think I found it on the big auction site for about $25 shipped.

s-l1600-8.jpg
 
Last edited:

tennmogger

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,576
527
113
Location
Greenback, TN
I use the same combination that TNriverjet uses, the old fashion 1-1/2" wrench with cross bar, Pipe for extra torque, and the Nut Buster if reasonable effort fails to loosen the lug nuts.

The Nut Buster can even be used to loosen the 20 wheel bolts but you will need a 15/16" deep socket. I use a 1" to 3/4" adapter on the Nut Buster then a 3/4" drive 15/16". That combination puts the torque leg of the Nut Buster tool against the rim of the wheel, perfect. Used it today, and took some pictures. My 1/2" IR impact at 120 psi would not start the 20 bolts, but the Nut Buster was effortless.

The other photos show how I pull the wheel halves apart (out of the tire) using a couple of chains, blocks, and an engine hoist. Those are a challenge to separate if stuck.

Anyone have a trick to get the bead locker to slide off the inner half of the wheel? This tire was half full of water and there must be some rust under the rubber locker cylinder. They are welded together!



0919171319.jpg

0919171403.jpg0919171404.jpg0919171407.jpg
 
Last edited:

Awesomeness

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,811
1,510
113
Location
Orlando, FL
This is all great info.

That brings up a side question I've had: Do all LMTVs have bead lockers and/or run flats inside? Is there a way to know without taking them apart?
 

1951M1078

Well-known member
1,018
184
63
Location
Glendale,AZ
Think the answer is going to be, no. **** some of the truck's are missing lots of stuff ! LOL
Think your going to need to pull them apart to know ?

If someone knows what the wheel and tire weight empty, with just the run-flat,with the run-flat and bead lock then you could just weight them.

Just my 2'c's.
 

Awesomeness

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,811
1,510
113
Location
Orlando, FL
Think the answer is going to be, no. **** some of the truck's are missing lots of stuff ! LOL
Think your going to need to pull them apart to know ?
If someone knows what the wheel and tire weight empty, with just the run-flat,with the run-flat and bead lock then you could just weight them.
Just my 2'c's.
I figured, but thought I would ask just in case the rims couldn't function without the bead locks, for example, or some other factor with the rim that would make it obvious.
 

TNriverjet

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,170
22
38
Location
Nashville, TN
I use the same combination that TNriverjet uses, the old fashion 1-1/2" wrench with cross bar, Pipe for extra torque, and the Nut Buster if reasonable effort fails to loosen the lug nuts.
The Nut Buster can even be used to loosen the 20 wheel bolts but you will need a 15/16" deep socket. I use a 1" to 3/4" adapter on the Nut Buster then a 3/4" drive 15/16". That combination puts the torque leg of the Nut Buster tool against the rim of the wheel, perfect. Used it today, and took some pictures. My 1/2" IR impact at 120 psi would not start the 20 bolts, but the Nut Buster was effortless.
The other photos show how I pull the wheel halves apart (out of the tire) using a couple of chains, blocks, and an engine hoist. Those are a challenge to separate if stuck.
Anyone have a trick to get the bead locker to slide off the inner half of the wheel? This tire was half full of water and there must be some rust under the rubber locker cylinder. They are welded together!



View attachment 700183

View attachment 700182View attachment 700184View attachment 700185
Looks like you are in deep Bob! I am preparing to do the same thing, so I'll have to "learn" my way through wheel separating with the available tools I have... First off, no hoist... Mmmm, is this really a good idea?

Wes has some tips in this video for us that only have an assortment of prybars.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nTiWCwqxduI
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks