OldLeatherneck
New member
- 5
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- 0
- Location
- Corunna, Michigan
Gentlemen,,
This is of necessity, somewhat lengthy. After a 6+ month search, I located and bought a 1986 M-1008 in November, 2014. For this last 6 months, I have exhaustively read and noted, and performed advanced searches, and read and noted all of the returns from those on both CUCV forums. I have made decisions and executed actions based on this input. I have also downloaded and reviewed / read the manuals. This narrative is not an inquiry to solve a specific problem. It is a request for guidance on best approach.
Historical Status: The truck started and ran well when I bought it, and continued to do so until we hit the deep freeze up here in January. The truck and engine have just shy of 69,000 miles on it. Engine ran smooth, no knocking, no black smoke. This is important for what follows.
Progress so far: Found local reputable, highly regarded shop to work the project for me.
New CAPA certified doors, inner and outer rocker panels, and cab corners delivered. (Doors need to be hung before cab goes to body shop to get new rockers aligned correctly)
Truck disassembled last week, finished pulling engine early this week, frame only going to be sandblasted this week. Frame integrity is good. No cracks, nothing bent.
Order in with ORD last Thursday – 03-26-2015. Custom front springs, 4” lift, 10 leaves to a pack, weight bearing capacity roughly 3,300 pounds per leaf. Heavy duty front shackles, U-bolts, front spring bushing kit, cross-over steering kit, heavy duty 1 ½ ‘ tie rod and tie rod ends, king pin spring kit, the Reid Racing bronze king pin bushings, and the weld in steering box brace. (and we will do the 2” x 1/8” washers in the hubs).
My shop will install all of the above in parallel with replacing the wheel bearings, brake components all the way around (including new lines), D-60 maintenance and new seals on both axles. I’ll have him check transfer case and do transmission service.
I have a source for rear springs here in Michigan (9 leafs in main pack + 1 overload leaf), rated at 4,650 pounds, and after we get the front end squared away, will do the rear with the shackle flip kit, etc.
I spent 14 hours this last weekend researching the feasibility / cost of pulling the DD 6.2 and installing a Cummins 6bt. After having read several threads here determined that a combination of timing and cost (5K to 10K to do it right), precludes this option right now. In that the 6.2 is engineered to integrate to the TH400 and either NP-205 or NP208, I don’t want to have to replace both to work with the 6bt, and there is the issue of locating a suitable donor 6bt, and doing the upgrades to that core engine.
To reiterate, my truck / engine has the approximate 69,000 miles on it and I fail to see the logic in adding 10,000 dollars and 6 months to resolve what was essentially a dirty fuel / fuel starvation issue.
I instructed my shop to pull the DD 6.2 and plan on putting it back in, and while it is out on the stand, we will do a
refresh / replacement of aged / worn parts.
So here is what I plan, and this is what I need your guidance on.
I’ll send the fuel injection pump off to Tim at Accurate Diesel or one of the other recommended shops for a rebuild.
Will do new injectors and new glow plugs.
Will do new fuel lines / return lines, and either a new 40 gallon fuel tank or 2 20’s.
Will replace the harmonic balancer.
Will do radiator maintenance and while everything is tore apart, will replace the heater core.
On the core engine proper, what I’ve got listed is replace timing chain, piston rings, gaskets, rear main seal, freeze plugs, and I plan on adding a block heater.
While the engine is out and everything is accessible, what is necessary (including any / all of the above) and what are the recommendations ? Also, would appreciate any recommendations on best sources for parts (OEM or higher quality). I won’t knowingly put any imported junk on my truck.
I’ll address the starter, alternator, electrical system, and harnesses separately, because this truck had the Roscommon 12 volt conversion done, I’m just not sure which of the 2 approaches they implemented yet.
Any and all input is certainly appreciated, and Steel Soldiers is well worth the 2 year subscription I sent in a couple of months ago.
I will post photos of the project as this progresses.
This is of necessity, somewhat lengthy. After a 6+ month search, I located and bought a 1986 M-1008 in November, 2014. For this last 6 months, I have exhaustively read and noted, and performed advanced searches, and read and noted all of the returns from those on both CUCV forums. I have made decisions and executed actions based on this input. I have also downloaded and reviewed / read the manuals. This narrative is not an inquiry to solve a specific problem. It is a request for guidance on best approach.
Historical Status: The truck started and ran well when I bought it, and continued to do so until we hit the deep freeze up here in January. The truck and engine have just shy of 69,000 miles on it. Engine ran smooth, no knocking, no black smoke. This is important for what follows.
Progress so far: Found local reputable, highly regarded shop to work the project for me.
New CAPA certified doors, inner and outer rocker panels, and cab corners delivered. (Doors need to be hung before cab goes to body shop to get new rockers aligned correctly)
Truck disassembled last week, finished pulling engine early this week, frame only going to be sandblasted this week. Frame integrity is good. No cracks, nothing bent.
Order in with ORD last Thursday – 03-26-2015. Custom front springs, 4” lift, 10 leaves to a pack, weight bearing capacity roughly 3,300 pounds per leaf. Heavy duty front shackles, U-bolts, front spring bushing kit, cross-over steering kit, heavy duty 1 ½ ‘ tie rod and tie rod ends, king pin spring kit, the Reid Racing bronze king pin bushings, and the weld in steering box brace. (and we will do the 2” x 1/8” washers in the hubs).
My shop will install all of the above in parallel with replacing the wheel bearings, brake components all the way around (including new lines), D-60 maintenance and new seals on both axles. I’ll have him check transfer case and do transmission service.
I have a source for rear springs here in Michigan (9 leafs in main pack + 1 overload leaf), rated at 4,650 pounds, and after we get the front end squared away, will do the rear with the shackle flip kit, etc.
I spent 14 hours this last weekend researching the feasibility / cost of pulling the DD 6.2 and installing a Cummins 6bt. After having read several threads here determined that a combination of timing and cost (5K to 10K to do it right), precludes this option right now. In that the 6.2 is engineered to integrate to the TH400 and either NP-205 or NP208, I don’t want to have to replace both to work with the 6bt, and there is the issue of locating a suitable donor 6bt, and doing the upgrades to that core engine.
To reiterate, my truck / engine has the approximate 69,000 miles on it and I fail to see the logic in adding 10,000 dollars and 6 months to resolve what was essentially a dirty fuel / fuel starvation issue.
I instructed my shop to pull the DD 6.2 and plan on putting it back in, and while it is out on the stand, we will do a
refresh / replacement of aged / worn parts.
So here is what I plan, and this is what I need your guidance on.
I’ll send the fuel injection pump off to Tim at Accurate Diesel or one of the other recommended shops for a rebuild.
Will do new injectors and new glow plugs.
Will do new fuel lines / return lines, and either a new 40 gallon fuel tank or 2 20’s.
Will replace the harmonic balancer.
Will do radiator maintenance and while everything is tore apart, will replace the heater core.
On the core engine proper, what I’ve got listed is replace timing chain, piston rings, gaskets, rear main seal, freeze plugs, and I plan on adding a block heater.
While the engine is out and everything is accessible, what is necessary (including any / all of the above) and what are the recommendations ? Also, would appreciate any recommendations on best sources for parts (OEM or higher quality). I won’t knowingly put any imported junk on my truck.
I’ll address the starter, alternator, electrical system, and harnesses separately, because this truck had the Roscommon 12 volt conversion done, I’m just not sure which of the 2 approaches they implemented yet.
Any and all input is certainly appreciated, and Steel Soldiers is well worth the 2 year subscription I sent in a couple of months ago.
I will post photos of the project as this progresses.
