M series coil failures

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Bill Nutting

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
164
173
43
Location
Chesterfield, Mi.
I don't know if this has been covered before, but My M37 distributor gets hot when running the truck slow. Like in a parade for example. On a hot day the coil gets too hot and quits. When I open the hood and let it cool down, it starts and runs again. The coils I have in stock are the chrome Chinese ones. They just don't work when they get hot. So I am wondering if anyone else has had this issue. If so, has anyone ever tried to put a ballast resister in series with the 24 volt lead to the coil? I am thinking that by dropping the voltage to the coil it may run a bit cooler... Or am I just crazy?
 

John Mc

Member
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8
Location
Monkton, VT
Well, I thought the purpose of the coil was to generate high voltage for the spark.

I read somewhere about the imported coils being a bit on the short side, so not making good contact with the housing to conduct the heat away. Someone mentioned putting a copper washer/shim in and coating it with heat conductive paste.

No personal experience with this, just passing along what I read.
 

foxtrk2

Member
151
3
18
Location
foxboro ma
do you still have coil inside distributor and if so are the fording air lines still connected to the carb if they are make sure there clear they do flow air into the coil to help with cooling
 

Bill Nutting

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
164
173
43
Location
Chesterfield, Mi.
do you still have coil inside distributor and if so are the fording air lines still connected to the carb if they are make sure there clear they do flow air into the coil to help with cooling
Yes, I checked the vacuum and supply line. They are so small that they aren't effective for removing heat from the coil cavity. Someone told me they are there to remove ozone created by the arc of the points. I have built an adapter that will allow me to use a 12 volt external coil. I plan to install it this week end and see if it works. If it does, I'll post some pics.
 
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