M1008 needs a well built 700r4 for a swap- need parts advice

[btrapr]

I sold my 1991 1500 4x4 6.2l diesel truck, which leaves me with the M1008. I need to swap out the 400 for a 700 to be able to get up on the freeway!

I would like some assistance/advice!

My parts list
- 13 vane pump rotor kit
- Kevlar front band
- Corvette servo kit with .472 valve?
- Commercial clutch pack (9 instead of 6 in 4th gear pack)
- brazed sprague HD-TQ converter
- Shift kit?
- new sprague
- Beast sun gear shell

____Where can I buy the bracket and IP rod to use the 700r4 cable?
____What clutches do you recommend

*Craotian Kid feel frre to chime in since I saw you had built some 700's!

THanks in advance

 

[jwaller]

you dont need the 13 vane pump. 10 works just fine the 900hp trucks I put them in. you just need to make sure you have the pump machined (blueprinted) to the new parts.

use a 4L65E sprag. it has the sun gear pressed in.
use the 65E front and rear 5 pinion planets if you want really strong. also use the 65E reaction shaft as it's thicker and has roller bearing instead of a thrust washer.

all good parts for a 700 build will run you about $1000.00
if you use a kevlar band you will need a new rev input drum.
corvette servo is nice but the sonnax ones are nicer. replace the 2nd and 4th servo with better units.

use at least the .500 boost valve and also replace the rev boost valve with the sonnax one as well.

 

[btrapr]

Thanks BUt I have a few q?'s

10 works just fine the 900hp trucks I put them in. you just need to make sure you have the pump machined (blueprinted) to the new parts. What new parts if I use the 10vane? and what are you machining? the recess where the rotor rides?

use a 4L65E sprag. it has the sun gear pressed in.
use the 65E front and rear 5 pinion planets if you want really strong. also use the 65E reaction shaft as it's thicker and has roller bearing instead of a thrust washer.

if you use a kevlar band you will need a new rev input drum (what about a drum that has been on a lathe and squared/cleaned off.
corvette servo is nice but the sonnax ones are nicer. replace the 2nd and 4th servo with better units.

use at least the .500 boost valve (I ran the .4?? I think a .472"? before not big enough) and also replace the rev boost valve with the sonnax one as well (what is SONNAX and where can I get them?).

**I was getting parts thru TRANSTAR right here in Charltote

 

[jwaller]

transtar can get you the sonnax parts but you should get the pinions and pump parts from GM
sonnax is a brand new. Google them and you will find they make lots of hp parts for all trannies.

you should machine the entire pump. they are alum and warp with torque and heat. you will find they will need lots of machine work to get them right. tolerances are very tight.

you will also need a tool to align the pump halves once you start to reassemble it. you should also drill the drain holes in the pump to 3/8 and put a spacer under the pump slide spring. pump slide must also machined for flatness.

you could use an old drum but the surface finish must be glass smooth for a kevlar band. you will also want to use a oraface restrictor in the rev input clutch piston.

 

[1stDeuce]

I can't talk much about internals, but the Mil IP has everything you need already present. You just need the complete TV setup, with the bracket, guide, and relay rod... I got my trans from a civy burb that a bud was parting out. I still need to hook up the the 12V power wire that went to the TH400 to the lockup wiring of the 700 to get lockup in 2-up or 3-4 at least... Shouldn't be too difficult. If you end up with a short trans mount instead of tall, a few pieces of 2" square stock fill the gap nicely... (I'd have used two complete pieces if I had enough, but had to cut the top one in half to cover the span...)
C

 

[Croatan_Kid]

I got my parts from Oregon Performance and Monster Transmissions. Most were big name brand parts, but cheaper.

Also, I suggest a good, external cooler that's used in conjunction with the stock heat exchanger and a good transmission pan. Preferably one with a drain plug! They make life easier. If you run the fluid through the cooler AND everything is in good working order, it will keep the fluid at a constant temperature during all seasons and won't over cool it in the winter.

Big, beefy parts are awesome, but it's just going behind a 6.2, no need to go too overboard. Oh, and I used Alto clutches and Kolene steels, it's good stuff.

 

[tm america]

go with a z pak for the 3-4 clutches. they make a wider band to if you want to get crazy with it but the rabestos pro series do pretty good. .as far as the other clutches semi metalics hold up better under heat and dont peal as fast if you get water in it.one other thing you really should do is put all new torrington bearings in it especially the ones in the planets.you can put 5 pinion planets in it to .dont use the after market ones they will fail quickly.the factory 5 pinion planets are a great upgrade.oh ya and go with the sonnax super servo for both 2nd and 4th it has alot more holding power than the vette servo. also everything is all about having the proper clearances and turning true and straight. so make sure you change all the bushings. if the band clearance is to loose you will get a crappy second shift.. take the check ball out of the low-rev capsule and drive it into the 4th gear accumulator .also put new acculator pistons in they are cheap and make a big difference.oh one more thing go with steel molded pistons in the input drum you will need all the and the springs .and when you use the z pak you need to use a number 7 3-4 piston shell.