m1008 no start

[ilovegrits]

New to me M1008 - Checklist before fire up?

Hey guys,

I just bought a 86 M1008 from GL, and plan on picking it up next friday (the 24th). I would like to go ahead and have everything ready (oil, filters etc) to go ahead and preform all the maintenance needed before I fire it up for the first time.

From the photos in the auction, the instrument cluster is missing, and there was no key with the truck (therefore could not be run and what not).

What I am looking for are some suggestions to go through and make sure everything looks good before trying to crank the engine over ; turn it over by hand, check fuel pressure ... things like that. What would you do before you fired it up for the first time?

Do i need a special kind of aftermarket gauges to work with the 24 system? How can i come across a key for the ignition? I read somewhere that most of the keys are the same, and to have someone make you one and mail it to you - is this true?

Sorry for the plethora of questions, and I'm trying to read up as much as I can... but I am new to diesels and to the 24v system.

Here are some photos from the GL site:

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/DixielandOff/4796091.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/DixielandOff/4796092.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/DixielandOff/4796102.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/DixielandOff/4796100.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/DixielandOff/4796090.jpg

Thanks alot!

 

[ida34]

RE: New to me M1008 - Checklist before fire up?

The only special gauge is the voltmeter gauge which is 28 volt. Do a search for the key code to get a key made at your local chevy dealership. I just make sure all the fluids are full before my 1st start up. If everything goes well then change all the fluids and filters. Good luck.

 

[GM72K10]

RE: New to me M1008 - Checklist before fire up?

GL should gve you a key at pickup. At least they did for the two I have bought. Good Luck!

 

[Recovry4x4]

RE: New to me M1008 - Checklist before fire up?

If they don't have a key, search the site for CUCV key code and you should find the code. With that you can go to a locksmith and have one cut.

 

[thedeliverator]

RE: New to me M1008 - Checklist before fire up?

Once you have a key, it should just be a matter of checking fluid levels, most importantly the oil and coolant, and having fully charged batteries. Take a good look in the engine compartment for any missing or disconnected wires.

If the glow plug relay is working you will hear it cycle, if it's not working you may have to 'manually override' it with a piece of heavy duty wire, see the thread on hot wiring for more info.

Look underneath the dash near the diagnostic connector for the starter relay, failure of this part can prevent it from starting even if everything else is fine.

Check the TMs and familiarize yourself with the fuel filter change procedure, including how to bleed air from the system. You'll save a lot of headaches by making sure it's getting fuel.

 

[thedeliverator]

RE: New to me M1008 - Checklist before fire up?

Also, after looking at all the photos, you'll want to put the air cleaner back on the intake.

 

[Michael]

RE: New to me M1008 - Checklist before fire up?

With the air cleaner off you will need to double check that they didn't remove anything from underneath it. They didn't take if off just for the fun of it.

Also the alternators won't work without the dash lights. I don't think it will hurt it to run it that way though.

Anything that looks like it has recently been taken off needs to be checked. They are bad to get parts off of trucks and then half ass put things back together.

 

[Michael]

RE: New to me M1008 - Checklist before fire up?

I would also just lightly brush the battery cable to the post or better yet use a small gage wire, just in case there is a dead short somewhere. Having batteries blow up in your face isn't much fun.

 

[ILoveGrits2]

Well guys - here is an update. My other account seems to be experiencing problems logging in, so I created this one. Admins, let me know if we need to delete the other account.

I picked the truck up on Wednesday, and spent all day today running errands. Got Rotella SAE 30 oil, AC Delco filter, air filter, wix fuel filter and two new interstate workhorse batteries.

Came home, tossed some diesel into the tank, and was about to make sure the air was bled out when I noticed the injector pump "top" was loose. Turns out they had removed the air filter, to try and fix the problem themselves I guess.

Anywhoo, two of the three bolts were broken off into the housing. About an 3/4 of an inch or so I would guess. Here is a picture.

And the bolts.

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/DixielandOff/IMG_0386.jpg

So tomorrow I'm going to drill out the bolts, and re tap the holes.

Also, I noticed that what appears to be some type of cutoff switch had been unbolted as well.

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/DixielandOff/IMG_0385.jpg
After going over the engine compartment more thoroughly this time, , I noticed a few more things.

First off, on the fuel filter "base plate" There are three wiring connections. The first comes out the top and has a female coupling.

The second comes out the middle, and I cannot find the coupling anywhere! Can yall look in yalls compartments and tell me where exactly this damn thing plugs into?
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/DixielandOff/IMG_0390.jpg

The third connection is at the base. Notice here, that there are 3 wires coming out of the piece. The adapter here has 4 locations, but only 3 wires. The connector, here, also has 4 connections, but has 4 wires! What is going on here?

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/DixielandOff/IMG_0389-1.jpg

Notice the purple wire in the female adapter, there isnt one on the male side?!?!
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/DixielandOff/IMG_0381.jpg

Now, coming out of the firewall, there is this wire. It looks as if it is some kind of splice coming out at the connector you can see behind it. I could not find a female adapter anywhere. Any thoughts?

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/DixielandOff/IMG_0391.jpg

Just a single wire plug.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/DixielandOff/IMG_0392.jpg

And the last thing, the brake fluid resevoir is empty. I don't know if there is a hole in the line somewhere, leaky cylinder or seal or what, but I will throw some fluid in there tomorrow and see what I can come up with.

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/DixielandOff/IMG_0394.jpg

Other than that, she's perfect

So, any thoughts as to the wiring dilemas I face? Thanks alot guys, I know you will be able to help me.


[/quote]

 

[CCATLETT1984]

USE DOT5 FLUID ONLY, if there is any original fluid left and you use other it will give you all kinds of grief.

BE VERY CAREFUL not to get anything into the IP when removeing the studs. worst case i have a spare engine i can rob one off of for you.

and the "cut off" as you put it is the cold-idle advance.

I will look on my truck for where that connector on the fuel filter base goes.

 

[Michael]

The third connection is at the base. Notice here, that there are 3 wires coming out of the piece. The adapter here has 4 locations, but only 3 wires. The connector, here, also has 4 connections, but has 4 wires! What is going on here?

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/DixielandOff/IMG_0389-1.jpg

I think that is the way it is suppose to be.
http://1plant4u.smugmug.com/gallery/2307658#120626493
http://1plant4u.smugmug.com/gallery/2338582#122369506-O-LB

The middle wires are for the fuel pressure switch. They don't have anything to do with the running of the truck. It sends a single to the STI/ICE plug for a diagnostic computer to use. This is a common source of fuel leaks though.

It would probably be wise to trace the brake lines out to be sure something hasn't been removed. I had one that had the equalization block removed. You could just pour silicon dot 5 fluid in and see were it leaks out, but it is expensive.

 

[ILoveGrits2]

Alright guys, here is an update for the day.

I drilled the studs, and managed to re-tap the mounting holes for the IP solenoid. I also changed the fuel filter for a WIX.

I am having a bit of a problem getting her to run though. The batteries are brand new "Interstate Workhorses" and every once in a while, I throw them on the charger just to make sure the engine is getting as much current as possible.

I bled the air from the fuel in the following manner. First, I hooked a hose up to the nipple on the side of the base plate just to the left of the bleed valve. I then ran the hose into a water bottle partially filled with diesel so I could see when I was cranking it over from the cab (no more bubbles, no more air). After the bubbles ceased, and diesel was the only thing coming through, I tightened everything up and moved on. All this was with the pink IP wire disconnected.

I then moved on to the solenoid, I cranked the engine over a few more times with the hose from the top of the solenoid removed and into a water bottle filled with diesel as before. Then I hooked the hose back up, and cranked it over a couple more times. Then I reconnected the IP pink wire.

If you read earlier in this thread, the IP solenoid bolts were broken off into the IP housing, and thus the IP appeared to be bone dry. This is how it looked the other day:

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/DixielandOff/IMG_0384.jpg

After turning the engine over again, I noticed a small leak coming from the solenoid / IP housing mounting flanges. I removed the solenoid to check for any burrs or what not that may be causing an improper mating surface, and the IP was now filled with diesel (full to the brim, after overflowing as I removed the solenoid).I reinstalled the solenoid, and it does not leak now.

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/DixielandOff/IMG_0396.jpg

Does the fuel look excessively dirty? See below for more fuel information.

Now I think that since the IP was bone dry, that the injector lines are dry as well. Would this be a safe assumption?

Here is a video of me trying to turn the engine over after doing everything above. Please note that the water in fuel light comes on now when the key is in the on position - to indicate the system is working, just like the other warning lights (unlike as seen in the video) I'm not too sure what the deal was then.

http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/DixielandOff/?action=view&current=MVI_0401.flv

And no that is not our jaguar

It seems to turn over quite "rough" in the sense that the whole truck seems to shudder with the engine. After trying to crank her up, if you exit the cab and walk to the rear of the truck, you can lightly smell some type of emission coming from the tailpipe.

Also, the instrument cluster was not hooked up when I got the truck, but after hooking it up, the fuel gauge reads 3/4 full (I'm not too sure what it read before hooking it up). I only added 5 gallons of diesel before hooking up the gauge, because I could not hear any fuel when shaking the truck, or even when tapping on the tank for sound differences. But, mabye there really is 15 gallons in there - could old diesel be presenting this problem?

It seems like nothing more than air in the lines (the tractor has these same symptoms it seems if it has air in the lines).

What are yalls thoughts though?

 

[emmado22]

I'd drain the fuel tank, get whatever old fuel/water/who knows what else out.. Troubleshooting fuel systems with bad or unknown fuel is just making life more difficult! Fresh fuel and some of the DieselKleen stuff will remove the "bad fuel" possibility from the troubletree....

 

[ILoveGrits2]

I'd drain the fuel tank, get whatever old fuel/water/who knows what else out.. Troubleshooting fuel systems with bad or unknown fuel is just making life more difficult! Fresh fuel and some of the DieselKleen stuff will remove the "bad fuel" possibility from the troubletree....

There are no drain plugs on these tanks, correct? I expect siphoning would be the easiest/smartest route? Also, should I try and purge the lines/filter/IP of all old fuel, or will draining the tank be enough?

 

[gillean]

try cracking all your injectors too, then cranking to get air out of the lines since your ip was dry. it will start and run with the injectors cracked then just go tighten them up when you see bubbles stop coming out

 

[emmado22]

Im not an expert CUCV guy, so I cant offer specifics... But hopefully someone else who is will sound off!

 

[ILoveGrits2]

Alright guys, I'm starting to get aggravated.

I drained the tank today, drained the filter, siphoned the fuel out of the IP, and replaced it all with 5 gallons with some diesel kleen added in. Bled the sytem the same way as yesterday, and nothing still.

I cracked the lines just a minute ago, and tried cranking and fuel didn't squirt out! I could have 2 threads loose, and no pressure at all ! Even with the engine shut off and fully removing the line, no fuel dripped out at all. Sound like a bad injector pump?

Just to make sure I'm not retarded, this is the proper way for the solenoid wiring correct?

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/DixielandOff/IMG_0404-1.jpg


EDIT :

One more thing, with the ignition switch in the on position, and disconnected and reconnected the pink IP wire, I did not hear a click. This is indicative of a bad solenoid, that would stop fuel from entering the injector lines correct?

 

[CCATLETT1984]

Bad fuel shutoff soloniod. yup, that would do it.

 

[ILoveGrits2]

I haven't been able to find a part number for that solenoid. Any body else know of a good site/place to get one from? All the local parts stores were not too sure what I was talking about.

 

[CCATLETT1984]

http://www.dieselcare.net/CHEVROLETPRODUCTS.html

check out near the bottom of the page. send them an email to be sure you get the right one, but looks to be $50