M1008 pulls hard....

[dieselsmokem35a2]

My M1008 pulls hard to the right even under normal breaking. I had a suburban that did that under emergency breaking but apparently that was normal for that year Suburban. I am guessing that something is up with my left front break for it to pull to the right like that. Anyone have any thoughts on what to look for?

 

[kenny]

Change the calapers. One of them is sticking
and it is not normal for any year suburban UNLESS it has drum brakes in the front and one is out of adjustment to pull to one side or the other

 

[Coal Cracker]

Calipers, you're right is sticking, dont just change one, change both.

 

[Westech]

could be brake hose also.... dont just think a caliper change will do it. Take the wheels off and remove the calipers and see if the piston moves back in. if so it could be a hose or just a simple hardware replacment.

15 year ASE

 

[dieselsmokem35a2]

Thanks guys! I orderd pads and calipers. $80 bucks a side. Needed new pads soon anyway. Gonna do the rear pads too. Anyone know if the rears are the 2.5 or 3.5 wide pads? I assumed 3.5 but not sure which to order

 

[dieselsmokem35a2]

could be brake hose also.... dont just think a caliper change will do it. Take the wheels off and remove the calipers and see if the piston moves back in. if so it could be a hose or just a simple hardware replacment.

15 year ASE

The previous owner put an 8" lift on it and did a terrible job of extending the break lines. Anyone know where I can get longer brake lines (preferably braided). Right now there are rubber extensions on there and it looks rigged because they broke the mounting tabs on the frame. Want to do it right. Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

[Westech]

summit racing is a good place to look. a line set will run in the 100-150$ range. and the rear will be shoes not pads. I betting on the 3.5 inch shoes, the smaller ones were used on semi floting rear axles.

 

[dieselsmokem35a2]

summit racing is a good place to look. a line set will run in the 100-150$ range. and the rear will be shoes not pads. I betting on the 3.5 inch shoes, the smaller ones were used on semi floting rear axles.

Thanks Westech, my fiance's girlfriends family owns Summit and is right down the street from me. Will def see what they have.

 

[chevy79k5]

my m1009 was doing the same thing when i got it i swaped out the hoses and its been fine ever sence

 

[hovenga67]

I got my lines from off road design. They are braided stainless. Very nice looking and the fit great.
Brent

 

[rlwm211]

All of the above advice is sound. I want to add one thing to check.

Besides checking tie rod ends for free play, you should check the wheel bearings and make sure they are not too loose. On a front hub with loose bearings the wheel may tend to travel straight when under normal motion, but when the brakes are applied the drag will make it turn out creating a "pull".

The amount of pull is relative to the amount of slop in the bearings. Even an 1/8th inch play at the outside edge of the tire is enough to cause the car to pull.

I have a 4x4 suburban. Ask me how I learned this lesson.

RL

 

[4bogginchevys]

If the rear shoes are way out of adjustment side to side it will cause a pull to that side...driver rear adjuster is probably froze up. Your already on the right track...just wanted to add that.

 

[rlwm211]

In my experiences, the difference between a pull from the rear shoes and from a front end problem is that when it pulls from the rear, the whole vehicle pulls to the side; as if it is pivoting on the rear tire; without any steering wheel pull. When you do correct for the pull with the steering wheel you will not feel any tug on the wheel in athe direction of the pull only that the truck is not tracking straight.

If it is in the front end, you feel it in the steering wheel first and will feel the drag as you correct it with the wheel. The truck slews to the side in proportion to the amount of drag you feel to one side or the other in the steering.

Hope this helps;
RL