M1008 retro build

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Kaiser67M715

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Figured I'd post up my build here, it's based on a M1008 truck chassis, but with some major differences.

First, I went with cab and chassis dually axles-they should be 4:10, but I have yet to confirm.


I also did 63" Chevy 1 ton springs- almost all new trucks use this longer spring to help improve ride quality, without sacrificing load capacity. This will mean either 16 gallon side tanks, or a rear mount fuel tank.


Next, I removed the 6.2 and th400, I am swapping in a 292 in line 6, with an NV4500. I would like to think had GM not had the 6.2 diesel, they would have used the 292 in the CUCV models, as it is a great base engine, and widely used in fleet trucks.


Because of the unique motor mount set up, I had to modify the passenger frame mount-as over 2 months of searching and calling salvage yards yielded no results for the correct 292 crossmember and frame mount. I lucked out and three holes already lined up.






More to come later.

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cucvmule

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I also like the 292's. The last one that I seen used was in a 85 S10. Talk about a tight fit. Say Kaiser I can not wait for a fuel mileage assessment.
 

Kaiser67M715

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WOW a 292, I haven't seen one of those in years. Looking good but a lot more work than I want to get into now a days!
I have a lot of time in the winter, it's a pain if I need to paint, but I can do a lot of mechanical work. I have planned a 292 truck for a while, this was a low mile engine from a lightly used farm truck, less then 20,000 original miles.
I also like the 292's. The last one that I seen used was in a 85 S10. Talk about a tight fit. Say Kaiser I can not wait for a fuel mileage assessment.
My brother had a 72 C20, 5:13 rear end and SM465, he was getting 15mpg with a little work, I'm hoping for the same pushing the Dana 60 and the overdrive.


I have started clearing the front frame of all brackets, I will scrub/brush/sand and get a couple coats of Chassis Saver. The frame is pretty clean, so I hope I can stop what little rust there is before it gets too bad.


I also cut the hole in for the NV4500 shifter.


All the brackets will be sand-blasted in my cabinet, then all coated with epoxy primer and black paint. The nuts and bolts are really just surface rust, I've done vinegar baths before, also done evapo-rust, so those will be cleaned and reused.

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Kaiser67M715

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Brackets removed, I removed all the brake lines, they will be replaced, I was debating not, but one of them had a pin hole and it started leaking, not worth saving a few bucks saving them.

Cleaning up real nice, should be able to paint tomorrow no problem.


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ken

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It's good to see I'm not the only one. My first CUCV I swapped a 292 into. I used to 1/2 inch plates and drilled the bolt holes to fit the passenger side mount. It's the only GM engine built that way. I used a Clifford 4BBL intake and duel headers into a 3 inch exhaust. With a 3 chamber flowmaster muffler. When you get it above 2500 PRMs it sounds like a Cessna 172 trying to take off. I used a 625 cfm carter 4 BBL carb. The 14 inch air cleaner clears the maser cylinder by about 1/2 inch. I used a SM465 and kept the 4.56 gears. I lifted it 2 1/2 inches and run 33 inch super swamper tires. Yours is looking good.
 

Recovry4x4

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Interesting build for sure. Will you be using a 208 transfer case? I did the chassis cab rear and 4.10s in mine. I have a 4500 waiting to go in.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
693
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Location
NH
It's good to see I'm not the only one. My first CUCV I swapped a 292 into. I used to 1/2 inch plates and drilled the bolt holes to fit the passenger side mount. It's the only GM engine built that way. I used a Clifford 4BBL intake and duel headers into a 3 inch exhaust. With a 3 chamber flowmaster muffler. When you get it above 2500 PRMs it sounds like a Cessna 172 trying to take off. I used a 625 cfm carter 4 BBL carb. The 14 inch air cleaner clears the maser cylinder by about 1/2 inch. I used a SM465 and kept the 4.56 gears. I lifted it 2 1/2 inches and run 33 inch super swamper tires. Yours is looking good.
I'm planning either a 2.5" lift or 4", leaning to 2.5" depends on clutch slave clearance. There's 2" clearance with stock springs-which means not enough upward travel to provide adequate clearance.

My plan for the 292 is long tube headers, 2.25" exhaust, and some sort of single chamber design mufflers. Offenhauser 4 barrel intake with a Holley 350 CFM 2 barrel carburetor.
Interesting build for sure. Will you be using a 208 transfer case? I did the chassis cab rear and 4.10s in mine. I have a 4500 waiting to go in.
If I can find a 205 for a reasonable price(and funds permit) in the correct 6 bolt pattern I would do the 205. Currently I am sticking with the NP208, they are plentiful and cheap.


Weather was not permitting last weekend, I got most of the frame from forward cab mounts to front all cleaned and ready for paint- Chassis Saver paint requires at least a 3 hr dry between coats, so slapping a couple coats on during the week isn't possible. I will bring our workplace diesel torpedo heater home to help maintain temperatures and do a couple coats on Saturday.


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Keith_J

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The reason GM built the 6.2 diesel was fuel economy. Diesel was cheaper. The reason the DoD used it was single fuel battlefield.
If not for single fuel battlefield, the 292 would have been used. But with a TH400.
 

Kaiser67M715

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I knew I was replacing the frame shackle bushings anyways, but the old ones were definitely past their useful life!



The one worn all the way through is the drivers side, the spring was actually contacting the frame.

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Kaiser67M715

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Sat, March 30: I moved the cab back, and scraped/sanded in prep for paint, degreased the whole frame, because the truck stick out of the garage currently, I laid a tarp over the opening.







Sun, March 31:
Started painting, chassis saver requires a good recoat window, 3-8hrs, up to 24 without scuffing. So I started early, got the kerosene torpedo heater going, 60 degree on frame, 65 shop temp. Plenty for paint, requires only 45 degree to paint. It's also more then 50% humidity, which will lessen recoat time- all this means I should be able to get 3 coats on the front frame. I currently have 2 coats on, and used 2/3 of a quart, I'll need to get a second quart for the rear of the frame.
First coat


Second coat-the light above is tempermental, and so decided to go out halfway through painting, luckily I had already painted the "dark" side, so I had plenty of light to finish.



I also discovered this stencil, hoping someone may give a clue as to its meaning? Drivers side, inside frame, letters about 3" tall.



Third and final coat should be able to go on sometime after lunch today.

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Kaiser67M715

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Great work! I'm a few weeks behind on my own project. How hard was it to move the cab back?
I got it jacked up and laid on a couple 2x6, then I used our small lawn tractor, and put tension on a towstrap and slid it very carefully back.

Normally I still have the axles under a truck, so all I do is jack up the cab on sawhorses, then roll the frame forward and set the cab back down.

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Kaiser67M715

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Put in 2.5" lift springs, put front axle back under, and received a goody for the engine as well...







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cucvmule

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Kaiser67M715, Great progress even on cool days in NH. The yellow numbers I have never seen on any truck, ever. Chalk marks for sure, but the only thing I can think is that before the frame was manufactured that maybe a steel lot number?
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
693
8
18
Location
NH
Kaiser67M715, Great progress even on cool days in NH. The yellow numbers I have never seen on any truck, ever. Chalk marks for sure, but the only thing I can think is that before the frame was manufactured that maybe a steel lot number?
It's on top of the factory paint, my thought was replacement frame? Couldn't find any reference to the numbers though. Definitely first time I've seen it, but most around here have some significant rust as well...
Very interesting build! Definitely not run of the mill, look forward to seeing more.
Thanks, I seriously thought going back to stock, but would have needed an engine, and all the wiring, underdash and engine side are completely hacked up, I found at least three dead heads, that would have likely been powered as well... I've had that 292 for a while waiting for a truck.

I'm currently waiting on cab mounts, I got the rear cab mount crossmember cleaned up and painted, the engine frame mounts are painted and ready to go back in. I need to do a little welding to the double hump crossmember, it's thin in a couple spots.



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Last edited:

dependable

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Looks great.

While I keep my CUCV fleet mostly stock, if I was going to put an gas engine in, the 292 would be a great choice. Had many Chevys with that engine configuration, from 196 to 292 CID, seven main bearings, straight six torque and sensibility.

I restored a 66 K-20 with a 292, ran so good stock, I did not need to do anything to motor. Also had one in a 65 c-60 dump truck, with a 4 speed and a 2 speed split rear, did the work of much bigger trucks at a fraction of the cost, 'course you had to know how to drive it.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
693
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Location
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Tires, used, but good enough to get me by for a little while.


Cab back down in its correct spot.







And another trinket for the engine.



Hoping tomorrow is good enough to get some more things done tomorrow, lost some time replacing the pinion yoke and u-joints in my other truck.

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