• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

M1008 Starter problems

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
I just thought about this when I was walking back over from the barn...

What if this is not a 27si alternator at all? I know its an aftermarket, so what if they just took the original alternator into a parts store and found one that was "close enough"? :shrugs:

If so, it would make sense why the bushings in the 27si hardware kit I have wouldn't match.

It would also make sense why they would have any need to modify the upper mounting bracket on the engine, if the alternator case mounts or the overall "depth" of the case wasn't exactly the same... if the bracket is indeed modified, which I believe it was because I just don't see GM making a weld and then "smoothing" it down. Also could be why the lower bracket and bolt looked "crooked" to me before I pulled it off.

If this is not a 27si, I don't know what it is as there is no numbers or markings on it anywhere. I think it would have to be a similar model, as the rebuild kits I have for the internal parts "appear" to be the same by looks at least. But I know appearances can be deceiving, and I don't have enough knowledge about alternators to know for sure.
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Went back over to the barn to look at that upper bracket again, took a couple photos. Its obviously been hacked up. The bracket on my truck where they welded it, the nose is not flat but instead "dips" down.

alt bracket 1.jpg

alt bracket 2.jpg



Tried to find some photos online of this bracket, or at least of this side of the engine showing it. Found a couple below. And they not only do not look like they have been welded at all, the front nose does not even look like the same shape.

alt bracket on engine 3.jpg

alt bracket ebay.jpg


Anyway... guess this is what is causing that squealing problem. Its a wonder it hasn't been a lot worse before now. Actually its a wonder the alternator is even still working. Or at least from when I originally tested it, its working sometimes.
 
Last edited:

roscoepcoltraine

New member
14
16
3
Location
NC
I took a few pics of my M1008’s passenger side alternator from different angles for you, in case it helps you.
I would say I’m 99.9% sure that mine is the original bone stock bracket, but the more experienced SS guys here should be able to verify that for you…

I would say yours definitely appears modified from stock
 

Attachments

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
I took a few pics of my M1008’s passenger side alternator from different angles for you, in case it helps you.
I would say I’m 99.9% sure that mine is the original bone stock bracket, but the more experienced SS guys here should be able to verify that for you…

I would say yours definitely appears modified from stock
Hey Thanks for that [thumbzup]
And yes I agree, I think your's is stock. Mine is a hack job. Which is what is causing my squealing. Something isn't lining up right with the belt, or it is the bearings in the alternator even though they still "feel" ok.
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
took inner seal off front bearing, it was dry. what little grease was left was completely dried up, took a pick and picked out a few pieces. put in some white lithium grease, what I was able to get in there. after I got the alt back together, I tried spinning the pully and could feel a little "hiccup" in the bearing now. So the bearing does have some wear and is likely what was squealing. but hopefully this will get me by for now.

waiting on my fuel sending unit and tank now, supposed to all be in by Tuesday. get that done and back running, I'll see how it sounds.
 
Last edited:

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,203
1,880
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
Sorry, I'm a bit of a grease snob. Any quality ball bearing nowadays comes packed with a polyurea based grease. These are generally not compatible for mixing with lithium greases. The annoying part is finding it. Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty (green) is a polyurea. Otherwise, your local bike shop probably has Park Polylube.
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Sorry, I'm a bit of a grease snob. Any quality ball bearing nowadays comes packed with a polyurea based grease. These are generally not compatible for mixing with lithium greases. The annoying part is finding it. Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty (green) is a polyurea. Otherwise, your local bike shop probably has Park Polylube.
no problem. I get what you were saying, and I normally would look up and see what was the correct lube for whatever I'm working on if I didn't know. But I just used what I had on hand as I didn't even know if the bearing was still going to work. I figured any grease was better than it running dry. I'm hoping I will be able to get a couple Wilson Delco remans at some point. Hopefully these alternators will last until then. I might even pull both alternators next week and clean the bearings back out and repack them properly with something better. I'll look for the lucas you mentioned. As if the bearing on this alternator was dry, I'm sure the other alternator is about the same. As it looks exactly like this one and appears it was replaced at the same time.
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Be warned. There is a shortage of polyurea greases right now.
There are shortages of about everything these days. Another reason I want fix everything I can to get/keep my truck fully up and running. I have heard from a Number of people who had something break on their vehicle, often little stupid sensors or etc, and for some of them their vehicles have been sitting in the shops parking lots for months because they can't get the parts anywhere. And the "expected delivery" depending on the part is from 3 months to a year...

I have a family member who has been a private truck driver for 45 years, the Peterbilt dealer NOR the Cummins Dealer could get a part for the engine to fix his truck. Fortunately it currently hasn't stopped him from driving, but it has caused him delays, problems and headaches.

Lots of other shortages across All categories of life as well. Going to get a lot worse unfortunately.
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Hey all, just thought I would post a "final" update about the alternator bracket. Had a bunch of other work I ended up getting into, but I finally got around to getting the passenger side stock alternator upper bracket I got from Hillbilly Wizard changed out, with the hacked one that was on the truck.

As I said earlier in this thread, the bracket that was on the truck looked like it had been cut and welded etc. When I took it off and turned it upside down, you could really see this. They had cut it, added a peice of flatbar, then welded it back together. Further, I'm not even sure this bracket was the right one to begin with, and might be why they tried to hack it to fit.

Here is a side by side of the stock bracket from Hillbilly Wizard (after I sandblasted and painted it) next to the hacked bracket that was on the truck:

20230408_143648.jpg

20230408_143658.jpg20230408_143707.jpg

Besides the welds and etc, the hacked one is narrower and the "slot" extends past the left side of the bracket too. And the rear half of the bracket is flatter... or they beat it flatter.

In any case, got the new stock bracket installed and it looks good. I do think I am missing a spacer on the bolt that goes into the coolant crossover pipe, as without a spacer it would pull the front slot out of alignment to the alternator bolt hole. So I had to just stack washers up to what seemed appropriate.

20230408_155643.jpg

20230408_155652.jpg

20230408_155656.jpg

20230408_155700.jpg


Also installed the new AC Delco belts when I was doing this. No More Squealing on startup:jumpin:
And after start the Gen 2 light goes out by itself or with just one touch of the gas pedal, no more blipping or coming on while driving.

So after all the stuff I did that is on other threads, which turned into a WHOLE LOT of stuff.... The only thing I still haven't figured out is why the temp and low coolant lights won't come on at "key on" or startup. They were working fine after I replaced the sensors, but now they quit working all together. not the bulbs/sockets, replaced circuit panel on cluster, not the plug, not the wiring that I can tell, I don't know. I always keep a check on fluids anyway, so not worried about low coolant light. But I did want the temp light to work, I do have an electric coolant temp gauge, but doesn't work great. I may have to upgrade to a mechanical gauge and call it good. Anyway, other than temp light I think she's good to go now.... FINALLY... :driver:

THANKS ALL! [thumbzup]
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Found on another thread the Wilson Alternator part number is # 90-01-4277

FPC has them for $162 +$47 core charge. https://www.filterspro.com/WILSON-90-01-4277_p_1813699.html

I emailed them about how to get my core charge back on my starter. There wasn't any shipping label or any core return information in the box my starter came in. I'm have the feeling I may just be stuck with paying the core charge.
Hey All! 👋 I didn't want to make a new thread about this as we spoke some about it in this thread. I hadn't drove my truck in about a month, have had my Dad in and out of the hospital a lot lately. But I went to drive to town the other day and not only has the squealing come back, its back with a Vengeance.

But worse, the truck was hard to start the other day and died/bogged several times when it did. I believe that the pulley on the passenger's side alt was froze. When I did get the truck started and stayed running, it was squealing like mad. Super Loud. I looked under the hood and the pulley was turning at this point, thats assuming it wasn't before which is why the truck was hard to start???

Ran truck for several minutes, tried revving the engine and etc. Alt 2 light was on or blinking constantly. Squealed the entire time until I was just about to shut the truck off and the squealing suddenly stopped. Looked back under the hood, everything looked the same but no noise. It has to be a bearing and I'm pretty sure its the passenger side alt.

In any case, I don't want to take a chance on driving somewhere and alternator or etc stop working and run batteries dead. Nor do I even want the truck squealing like that out somewhere. So its parked for now. And I'm looking at just replacing Both alternators.

:arrow: With that said, my question is... as I've got in the quote above about the part number of the Wilson Isolated Ground Alternator and its link. The other alternator is not an isolated ground... so does it have a different part number? I searched all over SS and the FAQ's (which doesn't even list this Wilson number) but this is the only part number I can find. 90-01-4277 Can this model be used for both sides??

Any input is appreciated,
Thanks All
 

royalflush55

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
646
519
93
Location
Reydon, OK
The M1008 and M1009 both came with 2 isolated ground alternators. This cut down on parts inventory if all alike. I have kept all of mine just like that. Some have put the regular Cadillac alternator on the side that does not have to be isolated ground. Sounds like yours is this way.

Choice is yours on how to proceed. If your bad isolated ground alternator is the AC Delco I would not want to send it in as a core. Rebuild it and keep as a spare.
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
The M1008 and M1009 both came with 2 isolated ground alternators. This cut down on parts inventory if all alike. I have kept all of mine just like that. Some have put the regular Cadillac alternator on the side that does not have to be isolated ground. Sounds like yours is this way.

Choice is yours on how to proceed. If your bad isolated ground alternator is the AC Delco I would not want to send it in as a core. Rebuild it and keep as a spare.
Thanks for confirming that OEM are the same part # for both sides [thumbzup]
I thought this was the case, but wanted to confirm before I ordered anything.

The one's it has currently are just some cheap auto parts store replacements. Which is why I'm wanting to get the Wilson Delco Remans. If these were Delco's I would certainly have them rebuilt. Been wanting to replace these for a while, but didn't have the $. I get paid here in about 10 days, should be able to swing it then.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks