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M1009 Exhust system

Small Prepper

Member
57
2
8
Location
Gernantown, MD
Evening ALL

Well my Exhust system finally started failing. I have been really lucky.
It's looks like the original system from 1985 ( not 100% sure) and I got almost 60k on truck. The truck came out of NY national guard unit. I picked up a complete system from O'reilly's for just over $300.00. With new manifold studs, clamps, o rings, hangers, mufflers, and pipes.

OK, a couple of questions:

1) Is it possible to be the original system?
2) I know it has a galvanizing coating on the pipes, Would it be worth to paint it with high heat paint to give it longer life?
3) What is the temperature coming off the manifolds?
4) Would high heat paint from auto stores work?
5) When replacing system, Has anyone have a lot of problems with the manifold studs? Breaking or stripped/stripping?

Thanks
S.P.
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
895
601
93
Location
Rochester NY
Studs do and will break, PIA but you do what you have to. I've used 3M spray galvanize made as a weld-thru primer, it's not cheap and has a LOT of zinc that means you have to shake and then shake it some more. I believe it helps it last but my exhaust seems to rust from the inside.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,263
9,554
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF6354.jpgDSCF6355.jpgDSCF6358.jpgDSCF6360.jpg5) When replacing system, Has anyone have a lot of problems with the manifold studs? Breaking or stripped/stripping?
If this is a concern. I would not worry. Do you have access to an oxygen / acetylene torch. If so the 9/16" nuts on the 3/8" studs will be a breeze. This is one of my customers snow plow trucks. Everything on it is as rusty as can be. I was able to remove the nuts from this manifold with a torch and a spray of ice water. Worked every time. Go slow and heat as you go. If it gets tight apply more heat. Bright red gets it done.
If corrosion is such a concern. May I suggest you consider the stainless steel mandrel bent pipes. Makes a nice job all around. Of course it is more expensive. But really how long do you expect to be painting and cleaning an exhaust system. It will rust no matter what. I had an M1009 with Stainless steel exhaust. Good Luck. Be Safe.


 
Last edited:

joshuak

Active member
747
214
43
Location
Slower shore, DE
...

1) Is it possible to be the original system?
2) I know it has a galvanizing coating on the pipes, Would it be worth to paint it with high heat paint to give it longer life?
3) What is the temperature coming off the manifolds?
4) Would high heat paint from auto stores work?
5) When replacing system, Has anyone have a lot of problems with the manifold studs? Breaking or stripped/stripping?

...
My 2cents,

1) Yes
2) If it's worth it to you, give it a shot.
3) I've seen up to 1100 f on my EGT, I've read above that any higher than 1200 f and you start melting stuff, YMMV.
4) That's what I used, I suggest you read the instructions there is a recommended heating/cooling curing procedure.
5) Prepare for the worst, hope for the best. Letting the parts soak in the rust buster of your preference for a couple of days in advance always helps, that and some good vice grips. I like acetone and ATF at 50/50. Put a few drops on each stud each time you remember.


IMG_0987.jpg
 

joshuak

Active member
747
214
43
Location
Slower shore, DE
Hey SP, your talking about painting your new exhaust right? If not I totally agree with cucvrus edit. Not worth the time on an old system

I started with a kit.

IMG_0915.jpg

Stainless, probably an overkill but sure would be nice .
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
808
113
Location
Virginia
Studs do and will break, PIA but you do what you have to. I've used 3M spray galvanize made as a weld-thru primer, it's not cheap and has a LOT of zinc that means .
That means you should not be welding it. Zinc and welding are a deadly combination. Proper weld-through primers are very low zinc for that reason.
 

cucvmule

collector of stuff
1,129
552
113
Location
Crystal City Mo
1979 When I was doing heavy industry demolition that required cutting, burning of large galvanized duct work we were required to take milk breaks to help with getting the zinc out of our body.

Purely preventative measure we were told. WRONG! I want this to be a warning that zinc poisoning is very deadly and no amount is safe. I was in the hospital for 2 days. After you have had it just the faint smell of burning zinc makes me ill.
 

LtDan

Member
34
24
8
Location
Farmington, NH
View attachment 780180View attachment 780181View attachment 780182View attachment 7801835) When replacing system, Has anyone have a lot of problems with the manifold studs? Breaking or stripped/stripping?
If this is a concern. I would not worry. Do you have access to an oxygen / acetylene torch. If so the 9/16" nuts on the 3/8" studs will be a breeze. This is one of my customers snow plow trucks. Everything on it is as rusty as can be. I was able to remove the nuts from this manifold with a torch and a spray of ice water. Worked every time. Go slow and heat as you go. If it gets tight apply more heat. Bright red gets it done.
If corrosion is such a concern. May I suggest you consider the stainless steel mandrel bent pipes. Makes a nice job all around. Of course it is more expensive. But really how long do you expect to be painting and cleaning an exhaust system. It will rust no matter what. I had an M1009 with Stainless steel exhaust. Good Luck. Be Safe.
I solved that problem by going to Hillbilly wizard for replacement manifolds. $20 each plus shipping.
 
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