M1009- from forgotten to restored, my story

[jdknech]

Hello all, it's been awhile since I have frequented the CUCV forum, but I hope you will follow along as I bring back a blazer that was destined for China (scrap).. Here is the story-

If you months ago a member of the local MVPA group mentioned in passing that he had a CUCV in his field that he wanted to sell.. He had bought it to fix but never did, it didn't have a starter, the tires wouldn't hold air and the dash was disassembled.. Also there was "some" rust in the floors..

We settled on a price ($800) and I brought it home.. I got 2 new batteries, and a starter, and glow plugs, spent about 2 hours putting it all in, hit the key and all the dash lit up and the plugs kicked on.. I pulled the wire off the fuel shut off, and made sure there was fuel to the filter, put the wire back on and it FIRED UP!!! It sat there and ran like brand new truck.. The engine sounds better then any 6.2/6.5 I've been around.. That was back in June..

 

[jdknech]

Well after getting it running, i had to find tires, the ones on it only held air for 10min tops, my last one had 33" tires on it, and I liked them, so I put 2 that I had in the barn on it, and found 2 more on Craigslist, then I took it for a spin in the field.. And to my dismay the transmission will not shift out of first! Just my luck.. Will after getting P***ed and holding it on the floor in first, it SLAMMED into 2nd.. Well that got me thinking, and I remembered the vacuum lines and TPS on the pump and found a broken line, after fixing that it shifted smooth as could be..

Running total- $1200

 

[jdknech]

At this point I decided to clean it out, get all the trash out of it and pull the CARPET out of it.. In all the paperwork I found, the last time this truck had been on the road was 1998!!!! The diesel in the tank was what was left in it from then!

Well as I pulled the carpet and insulation out, I discovered that "some" rust turns into "LOTS" of rust in the floors.. I am currently cutting out all the rust, and am debating between making a floor using sheet metal, or using replacement floorboards, what have you guys had the best luck using??

Running total- $1200

 

[wheelspinner]

First of all,......800 bucks??? Dang!

As for the floors, the replacement panels are dirt cheap, and SOOOOOOOOO much easier to install. Mine needs all four corners of the floors, inner rockers and some custom work going up the sides. In order to keep what little hair I have left, I will be using the floor panels from LMC or equivalent.

Great save!

 

[cucvrus]

I tend to over build when I repair things. But some pictures would be nice. I have been using 12 gauge galvaneal sheet steel to do the floor repairs on the ones that I work on. I cut the rust out and clean the good edges of the floor. I measure and shear pieces and add bends to make them fit nice. I tack weld,use 3/16" rivets, bolts, hot urethane caulking. What ever it takes to get a good strong floor as a finished result. I bought some of the replacement floor panels from LMC and other suppliers over the years but always end up just cutting small pieces out of them and not using the entire panel. Most time less then half gets wasted thru cutting and fitting. And the worst part is they are rusted out again in 3 years. My vote is for the galvaneal. Put it in cut bend grind to fit. Seal it really well and get the entire tub Line X sprayed. It is a bit pricey but looks good and seals the deal on the floor repairs. I done it to no less then 5 M1009 & 3 M 1008//1028 cab and beds. Just a thought.

 

[jdknech]

I tend to over build when I repair things. But some pictures would be nice. I have been using 12 gauge galvaneal sheet steel to do the floor repairs on the ones that I work on. I cut the rust out and clean the good edges of the floor. I measure and shear pieces and add bends to make them fit nice. I tack weld,use 3/16" rivets, bolts, hot urethane caulking. What ever it takes to get a good strong floor as a finished result. I bought some of the replacement floor panels from LMC and other suppliers over the years but always end up just cutting small pieces out of them and not using the entire panel. Most time less then half gets wasted thru cutting and fitting. And the worst part is they are rusted out again in 3 years. My vote is for the galvaneal. Put it in cut bend grind to fit. Seal it really well and get the entire tub Line X sprayed. It is a bit pricey but looks good and seals the deal on the floor repairs. I done it to no less then 5 M1009 & 3 M 1008//1028 cab and beds. Just a thought.

Sorry for the lack of pics, for some reason they didn't load.. I will attach them below..

I like the line-X idea, I hadn't thought of that, how much (ball park) did that run you for a 1009? And was it just the passenger area, or the "bed" as well? I had planned on using seam seal whatever route I went, and like you I was thinking of using sheet metal, but I got 22ga steel! I don't think I have the tooling to bend 12ga.. Lol 22ga seams thicker then the current floor.. But anyways, after starting to cut out the bad areas, I was starting to second guess myself and wonder if I should use the pre-made stuff, cause I don't think I'm gonna have much floor left when I'm done cutting :/

 

[jdknech]

 

[jdknech]

First of all,......800 bucks??? Dang!

As for the floors, the replacement panels are dirt cheap, and SOOOOOOOOO much easier to install. Mine needs all four corners of the floors, inner rockers and some custom work going up the sides. In order to keep what little hair I have left, I will be using the floor panels from LMC or equivalent.

Great save!

Yes, I would almost say that was my deal of the year... But it wasn't..lol I got a 1980 dodge W400 with 13k original miles, garage kept its whole life, with no rust for $500... I call it "supersoaker"

 

[maddawg308]

Great looking project there on the CUCV, subscribed - wanna follow your progress!

 

[max bowtie]

Nice save JD! Love to see these old trucks saved from the scrap yard. And geez, even though you have some work to do $800 is an awesome deal! Wish I could get some deals like that haha! Can't wait to see the progress you make!

 

[cucvrus]

Not all that bad. I would make the floors from sheet steel. And buy a set of replacement rockers. I made patterns for the side panels where the seat belts anchor. Cut all that out and welded a nut on the back of my replacement panel. I used the 2 - 5/16" bolts that are there also. Fixed it real nice and extra strong. Won't rust out again in my lifetime. The Line X was the icing on the cake. I did have an advantage. I work at a truck body plant.

 

[Drock]

Yeah after seeing your pics I wouldn't bother patching that. Just do a full floor pan, it'll be much easier and stronger when your finish. Make sure to get ah few cans of weld through primer to spray on the inside of all the inner floor structures. after you get them cleaned up.

 

[KansasBobcat]

More of a project than I could tackle. Look forward to following your progress. Good luck.

 

[AECS]

Holy Toledo, that is a lot of rust! I would do the full pans also, looks like you are at about 40% gone so might as well replace the whole thing.

 

[ODFever]

I'm glad you saved the truck from the scrapper, but I'm sad that it has cancer. I'm no expert, but it looks like it would be easier to install a new floor from LMC than to fab in a new floor. Too bad you don't live closer to CUCVRUS. He has access to all the cool tools, and has years of experience dealing with similar situations.

 

[eme411]

It' amazing how much rust that stupid rubber floor mat with the insulation causes, the floors rust from the inside out , I didn't listen to my own advice when I got my 1008 and I left the mat in, best thing to do is go with the made floor pieces as they have all the proper bends and fit great , I weld everything with plug and butt welds then use a zinc primer and paint , then to finish the truck gets Krown oil spray from top to bottom and then some ,

 

[cucvrus]

Rebuilding inner gate threshold , floor and rear bumper pintle hook area.

This is not in order but it gives you an idea on rebuilding the rear threshold and getting that problem rust area reinforced and rebuilt. It was a time consuming job. The gate opens and closes much nicer that the rear area is all squared up and reinforced. The Line X seals the deal. (not pictured in Line X) I just wanted to show you some ideas for rebuilding the rear floor and threshold area. I am not trying to steal your thread. I just wanted to share this because I know that area is a big rust out area in the salt belt states. I put 3 inch channel up in the back channel to add strength and get the rear back into square. You can see the bulges in the pictures from the weight of the roof pushing down it is imploding over the frame rails. I think I said that right. The 3" channel really pushed it up back into square. The gate opens and closes much better now. The rear bumper was a really weak as a result of the tubing being rusted thru. I pulled a guy out of a snow bank in New York and and that is what happened. He hooked it to the upper pintle after I told him not to. I should have looked. The nylon strap did a number on the rear frame and bumper area. It never hit him when he came out of the snow bank. Luck was with him.

 

[jdknech]

This is not in order but it gives you an idea on rebuilding the rear threshold and getting that problem rust area reinforced and rebuilt. It was a time consuming job. The gate opens and closes much nicer that the rear area is all squared up and reinforced.
The Line X seals the deal. (not pictured in Line X) I just wanted to show you some ideas for rebuilding the rear floor and threshold area. I am not trying to steal your thread. I just wanted to share this because I know that area is a big rust out area in the salt belt states. I put 3 inch channel up in the back channel to add strength and get the rear back into square. You can see the bulges in the pictures from the weight of the roof pushing down it is imploding over the frame rails. I think I said that right. The 3" channel really pushed it up back into square. The gate opens and closes much better now. The rear bumper was a really weak as a result of the tubing being rusted thru. I pulled a guy out of a snow bank in New York and and that is what happened. He hooked it to the upper pintle after I told him not to. I should have looked. The nylon strap did a number on the rear frame and bumper area. It never hit him when he came out of the snow bank. Luck was with him.

thanks for all the advice and Council! you are by no means hyjacking or stealing my thread, I asked for advice from those wiser then myself, and you have obliged! thank you! keep it coming..

I will be getting back into it this weekend, unfortuntly my 12hr work nights dont leave much time for working on trucks during the week..

I did order the rear floorpans from goodmark, I will see how well they fit, I do not have many sheet metal tools, so I will try this first before i attempt fabricating my own.. I do really like the Line-X idea though.. I will have to see how much it runs.. (i have a Ring to save up for as well lol)

I want this to be done right, as It will most likely be my daily driver when I'm done with it.. I will not be putting the gun racks back in it, It will get a roof mount shotgun rack like what is found in police cars.

once again, thanks everyone for the advice!

 

[jdknech]

almost forgot-
running total- $1500

 

[jdknech]

Also picked up a amber lightbar as well