M1009 no lights

[major519]

Had the M1009 out recently after sitting for a few months on a shakedown tour. After charging up flat batteries, she started right up and ran well.
No issues. Checked to make sure all the lighting was working great, no issue.
Had it out a day later, returning from work when I noticed that the lights were not illuminated although they were turned on.
Before someone jumps on me about the Service light switch, yes it was on, is on and has been checked.
No lights, nada. Brake, signals headlights etc.
What’s going on?
Thanks Chris

 

[WWRD99]

Had the M1009 out recently after sitting for a few months on a shakedown tour. After charging up flat batteries, she started right up and ran well.
No issues. Checked to make sure all the lighting was working great, no issue.
Had it out a day later, returning from work when I noticed that the lights were not illuminated although they were turned on.
Before someone jumps on me about the Service light switch, yes it was on, is on and has been checked.
No lights, nada. Brake, signals headlights etc.
What’s going on?
Thanks Chris

High probability it's the 30 amp fuse that runs all that stuff...it will probably test ok but the connection in the box is melted...very common...I use a 90 degree pick and flatten out the 2 contacts in the box so the fuse gets full contact of each side so it decreases resistance. You have regular headlights or led? If you are keeping the halogen bulbs there are relay kits out there to replace the main power so it doesn't go through that fuse and melt the box. I use the led ones so the amp draw is very little in comparison to halogen.

 

[major519]

High probability it's the 30 amp fuse that runs all that stuff...it will probably test ok but the connection in the box is melted...very common...I use a 90 degree pick and flatten out the 2 contacts in the box so the fuse gets full contact of each side so it decreases resistance. You have regular headlights or led? If you are keeping the halogen bulbs there are relay kits out there to replace the main power so it doesn't go through that fuse and melt the box. I use the led ones so the amp draw is very little in comparison to halogen.

I really appreciate your reply.
As I was trying to diagnose this issue from a distance (not home while the missus is out and about with the Blazer) I was looking for the simple answer.
Well, my friend, you gave it to me. She sent me a pic of the 30A fuze cooked to a crisp and the fuze block melted..
You suggest that this is a common issue with the CUCV? Please enlighten me further on the topic.
Is it advisable to completely change out the fuze block and why is it susceptible to overheating like this? Maybe a GM thing?
I have original Halogens and was considering the switch to LED headlights anyway as the originals suck big time