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M1009 No start

woodyNla

New member
69
0
0
Location
Tallulah, La
Agreed CombatMech, the wiring diagrams are great.. other stuff, not so much.

WoodyNla, you might want to look up how normal chevy 3 and 4 wire alternators work if you are having trouble. I think the chevys work the same as almost all car alternators, and generally have lots of info online about them cause so many people build up GMs. I am not a pro at all, but looking up how the alternators work (from a wiring/regulating standpoint) I was able to change things around in my truck and fix all my charging issues. I'm also assuming a 1031 has the same big GM 100 amp alts as my M1009, but I am new to MVs.. and don't even know what a 1031 is :oops:. My experience is with my M1009 and other civvy trucks. Civvy truck alts are all pretty similar, at least the ones I've come across. Good luck, and if its like a M1009, maybe I'll be able to help you out.
The M1031 is the M1008 with a PTO, Maint body with on-board 10KW gen (PTO driven), air-compressor and supposed to have a welder too. All CUCVs are the same except for the M1010 according to the sticky at the top of each page in the CUCV forum when it comes to the charging system.
 

combatmech

Active member
1,213
5
38
Location
Carrollton, Texas
When I got the autozone alt's....no dice. I'd have to take them apart to set them up correctly. I'm gonna take the old ones to be re-built. Thanks guys!! Anyone know of a good alternator shop in the Norfolk/Va Beach area??
 

CUCV85

Member
309
4
18
Location
central/ny
Need CUCV Alternators Rebuilt IN VA BEACH AREA

When I got the autozone alt's....no dice. I'd have to take them apart to set them up correctly. I'm gonna take the old ones to be re-built. Thanks guys!! Anyone know of a good alternator shop in the Norfolk/Va Beach area??
:arrow:Someone will chime in to help/direct you in your Area.
 

woodyNla

New member
69
0
0
Location
Tallulah, La
combatmech, the GM alt is not hard to rebuild. Replace the diode trio and the brushes along with cleaning the commutator with scotch brite and replace the bearings if needed. Oh, leave the pin in the brush assembly until you get it all back assembled. I know this because I pulled it before assembly the first time I did one. LOL If you can spin it and the bearings are good, all that is needed is splitting the case and replacing the first two items and cleaning the contact area on the commutator. A helpful hint before disassembly is to take a nail or screwdriver and mark a line on the two half's so you can put them back together the same way they were before disassembly.
 
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