Hi Guys - My rear u-joint "grenaded" and caused the prob in the pics. Does anybody have a source to purchase a new rear diff pinion yoke? Also, I have seen mention of the NAPA part number for those u-joints being NPJ P534G but do we know what the spicer 13XX equivalent is? Is it the same to the transfer case? As long as I am here asking questions...maybe even a source for the rear drive-shaft yoke as well? I can get it cut and welded. THANKS!
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
M1009 Rear Differential Yoke
- Thread starter panama
- Start date
I'd highly recommend Spicer parts. I've seen so much of the re-boxed retail China crap destroy vehicles.
I'd look here first. You will need tag numbers off the diff tube
The Expert - Information for driveshafts, u-joints, brakes, axles, heavy axles, light axles
I'd look here first. You will need tag numbers off the diff tube
The Expert - Information for driveshafts, u-joints, brakes, axles, heavy axles, light axles
Firejareen
Member
- 87
- 1
- 8
- Location
- Rural Retreat VA
In the mean time, pull the rear shaft and drive in four wheel hi. Basically a new fangeled front wheel drive m1009
- 2,480
- 24
- 38
- Location
- Houston Texas
Don't pull the rear shaft. The transfercase will spew it's oil everywhere. If you need the truck. Take the yoke from the front axle and put it on the rear. They are both GM 10 bolt axles.
I always hear and read that the M1009 have GM 10 bolt's front and rear. Mine clearly does not. I have a 10 bolt in the rear and a Dana 44 in the front. Both have 10 bolts, true. But they are not the same. No idea if the pinion yoke is the same.
V8 - thanks for the pointer
HAWK - I just may PM you for parts...again. Thanks
Fire - That thought occurred to me. If I need to move it I will give it a shot
Ken - too late...pulled yoke and shaft...and yes I spewed tranny fluid and diff oil all over the driveway!
V8 - thanks for the pointer
HAWK - I just may PM you for parts...again. Thanks
Fire - That thought occurred to me. If I need to move it I will give it a shot
Ken - too late...pulled yoke and shaft...and yes I spewed tranny fluid and diff oil all over the driveway!
Attachments
kipman
Active member
- 2,514
- 15
- 38
- Location
- Lancaster Ohio
WOW, how much noise was that making before it went south.
Kip - it has vibrated sporadically and very slightly at highway speeds since I bought it. I figured it was just the way old trucks were. The other day, while out driving, it vibrated REALLY bad and as I was looking for a place to get off the road, turn around and take a look it let loose. i always suspected the u-joint. But, you know how things go...you get lazy sometimes and just let them go. A 1 minute inspection and a couple hours under the truck could have saved me this headache...how many times have we heard THAT!
- 2,480
- 24
- 38
- Location
- Houston Texas
Panama, The last year GM installed a DANA 44 in the front of a 1/2 ton turck or blazer was 1976. You have a GM 10 bolt 8.5 inch ring gear axle in both ends. The tell tail sign is the two metal tabs or ears at the bottom of the diff casting. These ear were used for clamping the housing in a jig for machining. The GM DANA 44 is very similar in apearence, but will not have those ears and the diff cover is shaped a little different.
biggestc69
Member
- 228
- 1
- 18
- Location
- Council Grove KS
It looks like a ten bolt to me. I thought sometime in the 70's was the last year of the dana 44 in blazers? I might be wrong though.
biggestc69
Member
- 228
- 1
- 18
- Location
- Council Grove KS
Looks like Ken beat me to it.
- 2,480
- 24
- 38
- Location
- Houston Texas
Some parts between the ten bolts are interchangable. But not much. Yes the covers are a different shape. But things like bearings and seals are interchangable. The ten bolt front axle and the dana front axle share the same wheel bearings, and brake rotors, and brake pads. But not much more. The front axle uses reverse rotation gear sets. But you should be able to swap the yoke between the two. The CUCV rear axle uses a GOV LOCK diff. So the spider gears are different. If it had a open diff the spiders will interchange.
natemccabe
New member
- 108
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Fairbanks, AK
When you buy the new u-joints if they are grease-able, be sure to grease em. I ended up doing the front of the rear drive shaft about halfway between Anchorage and Fairbanks one trip, lucky there wasn't that much snow on the ground, just real f-ing cold!
Thanks for all the tips guys. Found a driveshaft shop in Miami and will have an estimate to replace the end yoke (rear to diff) on it (and u-joints while it's there). I will probably go with a used rear diff yoke, put it all together and call it done for another 25 year...I hope! If anybody else can chime in with info, part numbers, suppliers, tips it would be greatly appreciated.
534G joint is a Mechanics 3R type joint. Dana-Spicer # SPL-25-6X
Neapco # 2-3011BF Saginaw # 5-3147X
New yokes at many places e.g.
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1025_3r_series_pinion_yoke_for_chevy_and_gm_8.5_inch_10_bolt.html
ODdave
New member
- 3,213
- 38
- 0
- Location
- lansing michigan
No such thing as "reverse rotation" gear sets in light duty trucks.
Front and rear yokes are phisicaly different but will interchange. U-joints are different. I wouldnt recomend this though as your now going to have to replace the crush sleave on both axles insted of just one........
Last edited:
A new crush collar isn't needed just to put a new yoke on. Install the new yoke and tighten about 1/8 turn past zero-clearance. Care has to be used; that's all. I've seen many pinion bearings get ruined from over-tightening when new seals were installed.
ODdave
New member
- 3,213
- 38
- 0
- Location
- lansing michigan
Very ill advised as it is NOT the correct procedure........doing it right the first time has its benefits....