M1009 Replacing Rear Driveshaft/Differential seal

[Mike_Pop]

I pulled my driveshaft and seal to the rear pumpkin because it was leaking. After replacing the seal and putting the yoke back on, there seems to be an 1/8" gap. Should this gap be tighter? Can someone look at their M1009 and let me know?

 

[Westech]

well you have to reset your crush sleeve.

 

[Mike_Pop]

well you have to reset your crush sleeve

Ok...what's a crush sleeve?

 

[Westech]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-ARB/articles/14b_Gear_Setup/IMG_0004_small.jpg

its number 4. it sets the pretension on the bearings

 

[Mike_Pop]

The link came up forbiddin.

I can't find anywhere in the TM as to how to replace the seal. I thought this was a simple operation? Pull the yoke, pull the seal, replace the seal, replace the yoke. It shouldn't be that difficult.

 

[FMJ]

It preloads the pinion bearings, the only way to get to it is to remove the carrier (ringgear)

Usually when that seal starts leaking the pinion bearings are shot, or the pinion nut backed off, either way, it's a PITA......

Not saying its the "right" way, but I have replaced that seal, tightened the nut to the torque required and then used a center punch to keep the nut from backing off. Was the nut loose when you removed the yoke to replace the seal?

 

[Mike_Pop]

The nut was tight. Just the seal was leaking.

 

[Mike_Pop]

The TM doesn't explain much except how to remove the seal and replace it. It doesn't go into much detail.

Chapter 6-10 in the Maintenance manual.

 

[Mike_Pop]

Ok...I picked up two different seals, one has a larger diameter ring around it and looks like it acts as a spacer. However, the one I pulled was the seal without a larger diameter(on the right). I put in a new seal which is idential to the one on the right and I have the gap issue. Could the person before me have used the wrong size seal?

I just want to make sure this doesn't leak since I am leaving tomorrow for a 2600 mile trip back to NJ.

 

[Bozor1000]

Somebody should have the correct way to replace it. I know how to do it. I learned when I went to UTI in Rancho Cucamonga.

 

[Mike_Pop]

Consult the TM for the correct way to replace it.

I guess you didn't read above? The TM doesn't really explain much.

 

[Bozor1000]

That's why I edited my post.

 

[Westech]

get a chliton manual .... the cucv is a regular GM ya know.... there will be a bunch more info in that

 

[Mike_Pop]

get a chliton manual

Ok...I came to SS for help because there is no other place to go. I live in a town with 450 people and no auto parts store. The nearest one is 80 miles away. If someone can look at my first posting and actually go out to their truck and tell me if there is supposed to be a gap, I would appreciate it. Or, if they can tell me if I need to use the bigger seal, that would help too.

No offense but please give me some info that is usable.

 

[FMJ]

Mike, the yoke should move freely when the nut is retorqued, dont worry about the gap, as long as the nut is tight and the yoke will move by hand. Make sure you have the correct seal, there should be a number on the old one. Or use the one you have there in the pic, as long as it fits the housing, and the yoke.

 

[Mike_Pop]

FMJ, thanks for the info. My concern is that if the gap is too big, will the seal wiggle it's way out and start leaking?

 

[FMJ]

No, it should be driven into the housing and should only come out in the shape of the old one you pulled out with the screwdriver. The only thing that holds that seal in is the interference fit between it and the axle housing...

 

[Bozor1000]

Yeah, but the pinion might be off and he can shred the gears. You have to have the correct drag on the pinion nut. If it is too loose or too tight, you run the risk of of blowing out your rear end. Then you have a bigger expense. The correct way is to pull the carrier and the axles. Then check the drag with a torque wrench. It has to have a certain preload. I think it is 27 to 32 ft pounds. LLike I said if you don't do it correctly, you run the risk of spending some more dinero!

 

[FMJ]

Thats what I said in a previous post......I also said I've done it this way and it worked, It's up to him. But it sounds like he doesn't have much time......

I've done alot of things to "make something work" that aren't recommended, it's a matter he will have to decide for himself.

 

[steelsoldiers]

I have poor-boy'd one before by marking the end of the pinion and the nut with paint before removal and also counting the exposed threads. It worked for several years and was still working when I sold it. The flange of any seal should be flat against the end of the housing after being driven in. You didn't change the bearings or the crush sleeve. If the yoke flange is out farther after the seal replacement than before, then my bet is on the yoke not being fully seated as far as before. Is there any chance you moved the flange on the yoke? The yokes I had before had the flanges pressed on and I had one just fall off when working on it. Just a thought.

Crush sleeves are fun. I rebuilt a 10-bolt rear once with a new R&P. I had to use a pipe wrench to hold the yoke while using a cheater pipe on a 1/2" ratchet to get it to crush. Yikes! It worked though.