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m1009 Spray Foam in roof??

Kingpin

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I've noticed some people suggesting using expanding spray foam to insulate and sound deaden the roof of CUCVs. They've referred to removing plugs behind the sun visors to spray the foam in the space between the cab ceiling and outer roof, and also spraying it down the supports.

Has anyone tried this with an M1009?

My son's M1009 doesn't have any plugs, and quite frankly I'm not sure how much of a gap there is between the ceiling and the roof. It appears our only option would be to drill a couple of small holes behind the visors and spraying it in. Any ideas?

Also, the truck is chilly on these cold winter nights (need to get heater tweaked) and drafty. Air coming in around the door handles especially. I know some of you have insulated your doors for sound and temperature... do you have any pictures or instructions?

And lastly, what's the final verdict on whether using fatmat and a hood insulation pad as far as cutting down on the noise?

By the way, soon I will post our pics of the center console we made out of an ammo can, including a padded armrest on top and 4 cupholders...
 

l1a1man

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idaho
I put sound deadening padding down and some industrial carpet throughout the floor. Then changed my oil. It is too warm when the heater is on and I can talk to the person next to me.
 

4bogginchevys

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I just went through this same thing in a slightly different context....... the only problems you'll have is the pressure lock that happens if you dont have some holes cut opposite of where you fill. The stuff doesn't "shoot" like you want it to, plan on it expanding at most 24" into the cavity that your filling. And last, it is also an adhesive so it's hard to work with it in a confined area, good chance it will end up on seats and you while working with it. If I were doing a blazer I would drill holes right down the middle of the roof lengthwise in 24" increments and about centered top to botton in the pillars, I wouldn't plan on doing it all in one day either, give it time to expand and harden a bit. The good thing is it dries pretty hard and cuts pretty smooth with a strait razor, it is paintable aswell and would be nearly unnoticable if done right. A 3/4" hole is plenty big to aim the nozzle where you want, a hole saw seems to work best. If you use a hole saw and you were really into it you could replace the circle when your done and finish with a little bondo. Good Luck:-D btw, it is pretty strong as it expands, stronger than you'd think, might be a good idea to prop a couple well placed boards near the center of the roof so it cant expand too much and deform your roof.
 
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Kingpin

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By lengthwise... you mean from side to side... or front to back? Also, I'm concerned about the bolts that attach the blazer shell to the cab... they go into the roof space an inch or two... wonder if I could replace them with shorter bolts before hand?
 

l1a1man

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Went to pep boys. They had floor insulation with the foil on one side, took two rolls to complete, went to Home Depot and bought industrial grade carpet. Put the insulation in first then worked the carpet from front to rear. Fitted like custom carpet and was cheap.
 

l1a1man

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idaho
Went to pep boys. They had floor insulation with the foil on one side, took two rolls to complete, went to Home Depot and bought industrial grade carpet. Put the insulation in first then worked the carpet from front to rear. Fitted like custom carpet and was cheap.
Oil change made it quieter.
 

4bogginchevys

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I meant from side to side, and yes, good idea to use a shorter bolt, maybe even one of those hands free nuts like the battery trays use to bolt to the inner fender.:-D
 
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Stihl029

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Kodiak, AK
watch out what you use foams like great stuff at first are resistant to water. Over time(in Kodiak, AK about 6 months) this goes away and the foam holds moister and water. I have seen this lead to accelerated corrosion and fungal things both at work and peoples rigs that are on the road.
 

kipman

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Lancaster Ohio
Lowes, home depot, it will be with the regular spray foam, blue can, made to spray around doors and windows so it does not bulge the units out.
 

Blood_of_Tyrants

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Lebanon, TN
The spray foam they are talking about is the expanding polyurethane foam that you can spry into cracks and holes in your house to help insulate it. It comes with a straw to get it into holes and cracks. Costs about $5 a can. Spray a little at a time and see how much it expands (a lot) and then spray more. Put the straw all the way in and spray a little and then back it out spraying a bit more.

The stuff is sticky as he|| and will make a terrible mess if you aren't careful.

Also, I believe that the fumes of drying polyurethane are noxious or even poisonous so make sure you do it outside with the doors open and windows down.
 

scrambled

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I used a roll of the foil backed wool insulation you buy at pep boys. I cut it to fit the floorboards and used SPRAY 77 to adhere it. I also bought a K5 carpet kit off of Ebay for 200 bucks. It makes the M1009 beautiful. My truck didn't have the sill plates to hold the carpet down, so I bought some from LMC and then threw in some floor mats. it is much quieter, and keeps the heat inside.

Travis
 

Kingpin

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Good help everyone... much appreciated. Picked up a little dynamat at pep boys to insulate recessed parts of hood, and a hood insulation pad with some push clips. Will be installing in the next couple of days.

Also bought 5 cans of the Great Stuff foam for the roof (don't worry I bought the low expanding blue can thanks to you guys) and will be putting that in when I can warm the garage a bit.

I'll try to get a sound meter to give you some before and after results.
 

ralbelt

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West Warwick, R.I.
ACM that is my thinking also, that down the road of time, that the body seams will start to rot out due to condensation that will collect against the metal.
 
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