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M1009 Starting Problems

bgfd2216

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Bulls Gap TN
I have a 1984 M1009. I am having trouble to get the thing to start. I replaced the solenoid next to the master cylinder. I have power at the top red wire but the other 3 are not showing anything. Can some please tell me how to go about fixing this problem. Thanks
 

Fleg

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What do you mean "not starting"? Is it not turning over, is it turning over and not starting, is it acting like it wants to start as it's turning over, etc......

Saying something is not starting is pretty vague.
 

jholler

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Jonesboro, AR
I hate to ask this, but are you letting the glow plugs cycle? For how long? I've noticed that if I let them go for 3-5 more seconds AFTER the wait light goes out, she starts right up. If not, she'll crank and crank.
 

Fleg

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I just had a similar problem. All of a sudden it would crank and crank but nothing, not even a sputter. Turned out to be my glow plugs. If one goes bad then because of how the system is wired, the rest will fail in a short period of time. I was getting 24V between the wire going to the glow plug and ground. Also, the GP relay was cycling repeatedly and the voltage gauge wasn't dipping like normal when the glow plugs should have been active.
 

bgfd2216

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I have replaced all the glow plug still have no volts at any of the wires. Replaced the soleniod beside the master cylinder and the red wire on the top is the only hot wire when I turn it over none of the other wires get hot. Also the WAIT light on the dash does not come on.
 

Fleg

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Check out the FAQ section of the CUCV forum. I'm pretty sure the Tech Manuals are all there as well.

Glow Plugs

Tools Required

  • Multi-Meter / test-light
  • Glow Plug Socket
  • 3' piece of wire, with ends stripped

  1. Remove a wire from a glow plug. Have a helper turn on the key, and check for voltage between the glow plug wire and ground.
    • If voltage present, use a test light and hook the end to the tip of the glow plug while its still in the engine. With the other end of the test light, touch positive. If test light lights up the glow plug is good. Do this for each 8 glow plugs.
    • If no voltage continue
  2. Locate Glow Plug Relay on firewall to the left of the master Cylinder.
    1. check for voltage on the Left large terminal.
      • If voltage present, have helper turn on key, do you hear a clunk from the relay?
        • If no, take your piece of wire, hold one end on a good ground, and touch the other end to the small terminal with the BLUE wire.
          • If you still dont hear the relay clunk, replace it.
          • If you do hear the clunk, your controller card is bad. Replace it, or install the 'manual glow plug' setup.
      • If voltage not present, check for voltage on the left side of the resistor bank (behind air cleaner on firewall)
        • If no voltage, check wire feeding resistors to ensure it is properly connected to the TOP busbar on the firewall
        • If voltage present, verify wire between resistor and relay. if wire is good, replace resistor, or do the 12v resistor bypass.
 

Warthog

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www.jatonkam35s.com

Follow the trorubleshooting section in the TM 9-2320-289-20 manual to test the circuits for the glowplug system.

It may be a simple as a fuse or as bad as a bead glowplug controller card.

P.S. - This is the third thread you have started for this same problem. You need to stop this and pick one of them to use, as it is against the site rules and WILL get you a "time out". Be warned.
 
Last edited:

Hightechken

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How old is your fuel? Diesel fuel "keeps" lots longer than gasoline, But it still will go bad after enough years. Is this a truck you just got that has been stored a long time?
 

Dmoser

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sometimes i have a similar problem when its hot out. wait to start lamp will not turn on and engine will just turn over (very extended crank). at first i thought it was the wire going into my fuel cut solenoid, i only have 10 volts avaible there but it will still energize. i believe there is a relay mod for the glow plug relay but if anybody has had similar problems some info on what you did to fix it would be nice =)
 

Barrman

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My trucks normally starts with about 1-2 seconds of cranking when cold. As soon as I hit the key when hot and it has been off less than 1 hour. Then it gets weird.

1-1/2 hour to about 3 hours in warm summer time normally means the heads do not get down below the 125° required to light up the glow plugs. This means it could start instantly or it could take up to about 3 seconds. I always stop after that long and recycle the key to try again. Is this kind of what you are referring to?
 

Dmoser

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sorry it took so long to get back. no, yours sounds like it starts pretty fast but for mine i can crank it for around 10-15 seconds before it will start, especially if it is hot out (over 80-85 deg.) at first i suspected the wire going to my fuel cut solenoid because that was a problem when i first got it. I guess it could be a bad glow plug or relay but im just looking for info if this has happened to somebody before.
 

Barrman

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I would suggest you start by checking each and every glow plug the way the TM tells you to. Which is with a DVOM. Then, filter, fuel lines, lift pump and finally the IP. The TM takes you through these steps as well. The 6.2 is an amazingly simple engine to work on. It either runs or it doesn't. If it runs, it either runs good or not so good. Unless smoke is pouring out the exhaust, the problem is usually with the fuel system. $600 will replace everything in the fuel system so if you have to start putting new stuff in, you might as well go all the way and have new parts throughout.
 

Warthog

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Also check the connectors for the glowpug wires. They are known to loosen over time. You can use a small pick-hook to bend them back into place for a tight connection.
 
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