• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

M1009 Starting Trouble

665
7
18
Location
Madison Alabama
I have already read dozens of posts and went through the TM troubleshooting. I think my problem is the starter but wanted to see if I missed anything. The truck was running fine a few months ago and was parked in the garage. Below is what I have done so far.

Symptoms:
Engine does not turn over. Turn the key and I get oil pressure light, gen 1, wait light, (water in fuel and low coolant lights come on and go off). Once wait light goes off I turn key and all lights go off and temp light and brake light comes on. Headlights are strong.

1. Replaced both batteries today with new batteries
2. Checked 20 amp ignition fuse - Good
3. Remove starter relay and went ahead and did the Doghead mod. (Thought it had already been done) have voltage at the purple/white lead terminal on starter relay connector in the start position.
4. I can hear the starter relay switch in the start position.
5. Voltage between front - and rear + battery terminals is good.
6. I can hear the starter solenoid click when the key is turned to start.
7. I tried using jumper cables between the front and rear batteries like recommended in another thread, didn't help.

I think it's the starter but want to see what everyone thought before pulling that out. Doesn't look like a pleasant job in that cramped space.

Also not sure why the gen 2 light doesn't illuminate when the key is turned.

Thanks for any help!

David
 

CUCVLOVER

Active member
You might have a dead spot in the starter, which of course means it needs rebuild or replacement.
Try hitting the starter with a hammer or something, try it with key in ON, or off it doesn't matter, and if it still doesn't start, try it with key in START.
Makes sure the starter isn't just spinning. The bendix could have sheared off.

I had a start on a jeep just quit for no reason. It started the motor then the next try, nothing.
 
Last edited:

Sergeant1983

Member
146
1
18
Location
Memphis TN
If I do not start my M1009 for about a month, I have to take a long pipe. Slide it down between the engine and firewall, so it is on top of the starter and tap it with a hammer. I have used a heavy walled pipe as well without a hammer and tapped it. I think the starter bendix is sticking from non-use. Not sure. I have a new starter but if I start it at least once a week when not driving it much. It does fine. But the new starter is in the foot locker in back, ready for the fateful day when it fails to start and tapping no longer works.
 

CUCVLOVER

Active member
Cucvlover was it a pain to remove and reinstall?
My experience with a starter is a bit misleading.
What I was saying about haven't a starter just quit was on my jeep. I thought I stated that but I was basically asleep when I finished my post and I forgot that detail. For that I am truly sorry.

I have however checked the cables and such on mine and I don't think a change out would be that bad. I think there is plenty of room to work.
Just take off the bottom bolt/bolts (I don't remember how many it had), the cables then the top bolt/bolts from above the starter.
That way it doesn't fall and hit you in the face.

I'm sorry about the post I will be changing it.
Please don't hunt me down and shoot me.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,285
9,647
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Basically it is a challenge the first time around.
1.) Disconnect all the battery cables.
2.) Remove 2 -15 mm starter bolts
3.) Remove or loosen 13 mm bolt from front top of starter support bracket. Support bracket to engine block.
4.) Remove the 11 mm / 7/16" nut from the back of the starter.
5.) Remove the 16 mm / 5/8" main positive cable from starter solenoid.
6.) Remove 11/32" wire from inside stud on the starter solenoid.
7.) The starter should be laying loose up in there now. Shimmy it out and get it on the ground.
be careful it is heavy and you can do it this way. Others will tell you to remove the flexplate /flywheel cover and the front drive shaft. Do that if you insist. But it is not nessecary. I can change a sterter in about 20 minutes tops. Give yourself and hour and a few refreshments and you will do fine. Remember it is Sunday no colorful wording while doing this job. It is a simple task. Just keep saying that to yourself. If you should encounter 3/8" X 9/16" drive bolts on the starter bolts they are incorrect. Also I always replace the 2 starter bolts when ever I remove a starter. They are metric M10 X 1.5 thread pitch. That is me do as you want. It is an inexpensive policy that I adapted over my 30 year experience with the CUCV's and the 6.2 diesel. Trust me on that one. I will not do any hack jobs on any task I am assigned. Stick with the original design it has lasted 30 + years it will not fail you. Good Luck and be safe. Plan the work and work the plan.
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks