• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M1009 startup then "stall out" Hard 2nd start then OK

Milkman357

Member
177
15
18
Location
Des Moines, IA
part #

When you get that fixed.. make sure to share the part number..

I backed in my driveway.. so the nose was downhill...

Perfect start up!

But I can see seepage from the fuel filter area..

Filter was changed in 2010... I'm gonna try another filter..and replace the rubber fuel lines going to the assembly.. They look kinda crappy.

If that dont solve it.. SPIN on here I come...
 

cheiser666

New member
116
0
0
Location
Lansdale,PA
My truck only does this if i do not press on the accelerator when it starts.

According or Operators manual and sign on sun shade you should press the pedal half way down when starting.
 

wired1000

New member
214
0
0
Location
Chicago, IL
Having this same issue even after spin-on filter install

Hi all,

I installed the Wix 24770 filter base and spin-on filter, changed rubber hoses to and from filter, and the return line on the IP. I have an '86 M1009, which appears to have the updated check valve (no glass ball).

I'm replying to this thread because I had expected the spin-on install to fix this issue (just as described... starts instantly, runs for 3 seconds. Dies. Cranks for 7 seconds before reluctantly starting, then acts weird (idling unevenly, surging, etc) for another minute before finally settling down and running normally.

I have an electric pump I'm planning to install soon... maybe this will help. But in the meantime if any of y'all have any ideas.. Thanks
 

top_prop

Member
243
8
18
Location
Suffolk, VA
I also just replaced my fuel filter with a spin on and am having the same no air in return line: start.. die... hard to start... now lots of air in the return line (I swapped in a clear line)... I guess its time to check the glass ball check valve?

Tom
 

truck1

Member
332
10
18
Location
San Anselmo,CA.
I posted a similar problem on my 1028. Hard starts, then would run fine.Turned out it was a 3/8ths fuel line from the fuel tank that rubbed on crossmember and wore through a tiny pinhole in the line. Cut line and spliced in rubber line. Problem gone. Check your fuel lines - ALL lines from tank to IP,rubber and rigid.
 

top_prop

Member
243
8
18
Location
Suffolk, VA
I pulled the check valve off the top of the IP off and blasted it out with some non clorinated brake cleaner... it would let the cleaner out one way, but not the other, so it seemed it was working properly.. but when I looked through it i could see a fracture in the glass ball.

I pulled one off an old IP ShadeTree pulled out of a junker... it looked good so I swapped it in. I let the truck sit about 15 hrs (until I had to drive to work this morning). I Had a hard initial start this morning, but then it fired... so the symptoms have changed some but not a lot... I can't remember if I fired it up after I swapped the check valve.. I think I did... anyways....

I'm suspecting I've got an airleak in my injectors... but to be sure I guess I'll need to check every inch of fuel line, or pressurize the fuel lines like the Haynes Tech manual suggests...
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks