Finally got the m1009 on the road today! Trans wont shift from 1st gear when driving! I can manually shift it from 1st to 3rd but not 1st to second then third? I checked vacuum pump no vac at idle but 20 inches when reving i replaced all the vac lines? I think i need a trans but before i take it in i thought i would get some feedback?
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M1009 trasn issue
- Thread starter ryan77
- Start date
boondock
Member
- 79
- 2
- 8
- Location
- Anchorage, AK
take it to a reliable transmission shop & get their assessment of your situation.
SGT LongT
Member
- 203
- 23
- 18
- Location
- Palm Bay, FL
This is straight from the TM-34
[FONT="]NO UPSHIFTS, DELAYED UPSHIFTS, OR FULL THROTTLE UPSHIFTS ONLY[/FONT]
[FONT="]Step 1. Disconnect downshift electrical connector from side of transmission. Operate truck[/FONT]
[FONT="]and observe upshift performance.[/FONT]
[FONT="]If upshift is normal, replace transmission downshift switch on side of[/FONT]
[FONT="]accelerator bracket.[/FONT]
[FONT="]If upshift performance is still poor, perform step 2.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Step 2. Connect downshift electrical connector to side of transmission. Test transmission oil[/FONT]
[FONT="]pressure with brakes applied, “ D“ (Drive), engine at 1000 rpm. (See paragraph[/FONT]
[FONT="]5-11)[/FONT]
[FONT="]If oil pressure is normal; remove, disassemble, clean, and inspect governor[/FONT]
[FONT="]assembly. (See paragraph 5-5)[/FONT]
[FONT="]If oil pressure is high, perform step 3.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Step 3. Test transmission oil pressure with brakes applied, “N” (Neutral), engine at[/FONT]
[FONT="]1000 rpm. (See paragraph 5-11)[/FONT]
[FONT="]If oil pressure is normal, perform step 4.[/FONT]
[FONT="]If oil pressure is high, perform step 5.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Step 4. Check for leaking or damaged detent solenoid.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Tighten detent solenoid if loose and replace if damaged. (See paragraph 5-7)[/FONT]
[FONT="]If detent solenoid is not loose or damaged, clean transmission control valve[/FONT]
[FONT="]assembly. (See paragraph 5-7)[/FONT]
[FONT="]Step 5. Check for loose or damaged vacuum lines and hoses.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Connect vacuum hoses or vacuum lines if loose and replace if damaged. (See[/FONT]
[FONT="]TM 9-2320-289-20)[/FONT]
[FONT="]Step 6. Disconnect vacuum hose from vacuum pump. Install hose and vacuum gage on[/FONT]
[FONT="]vacuum pump. Start engine. Calculate proper vacuum gage reading as shown in[/FONT]
[FONT="]chart. Shut off engine.[/FONT]
[FONT="]If vacuum drops 1 in. Hg or more in less than 1,5 seconds, or if vacuum never[/FONT]
[FONT="]reaches proper gage reading, replace vacuum Dump. (See[/FONT]
[FONT="]TM 9-2320~289-20) [/FONT][FONT="]- -[/FONT]
[FONT="]Step 7.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Remove, clean, and inspect vacuum modulator assembly and modulator valve,[/FONT]
[FONT="]NO UPSHIFTS, DELAYED UPSHIFTS, OR FULL THROTTLE UPSHIFTS ONLY[/FONT]
[FONT="]Step 1. Disconnect downshift electrical connector from side of transmission. Operate truck[/FONT]
[FONT="]and observe upshift performance.[/FONT]
[FONT="]If upshift is normal, replace transmission downshift switch on side of[/FONT]
[FONT="]accelerator bracket.[/FONT]
[FONT="]If upshift performance is still poor, perform step 2.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Step 2. Connect downshift electrical connector to side of transmission. Test transmission oil[/FONT]
[FONT="]pressure with brakes applied, “ D“ (Drive), engine at 1000 rpm. (See paragraph[/FONT]
[FONT="]5-11)[/FONT]
[FONT="]If oil pressure is normal; remove, disassemble, clean, and inspect governor[/FONT]
[FONT="]assembly. (See paragraph 5-5)[/FONT]
[FONT="]If oil pressure is high, perform step 3.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Step 3. Test transmission oil pressure with brakes applied, “N” (Neutral), engine at[/FONT]
[FONT="]1000 rpm. (See paragraph 5-11)[/FONT]
[FONT="]If oil pressure is normal, perform step 4.[/FONT]
[FONT="]If oil pressure is high, perform step 5.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Step 4. Check for leaking or damaged detent solenoid.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Tighten detent solenoid if loose and replace if damaged. (See paragraph 5-7)[/FONT]
[FONT="]If detent solenoid is not loose or damaged, clean transmission control valve[/FONT]
[FONT="]assembly. (See paragraph 5-7)[/FONT]
[FONT="]Step 5. Check for loose or damaged vacuum lines and hoses.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Connect vacuum hoses or vacuum lines if loose and replace if damaged. (See[/FONT]
[FONT="]TM 9-2320-289-20)[/FONT]
[FONT="]Step 6. Disconnect vacuum hose from vacuum pump. Install hose and vacuum gage on[/FONT]
[FONT="]vacuum pump. Start engine. Calculate proper vacuum gage reading as shown in[/FONT]
[FONT="]chart. Shut off engine.[/FONT]
[FONT="]If vacuum drops 1 in. Hg or more in less than 1,5 seconds, or if vacuum never[/FONT]
[FONT="]reaches proper gage reading, replace vacuum Dump. (See[/FONT]
[FONT="]TM 9-2320~289-20) [/FONT][FONT="]- -[/FONT]
[FONT="]Step 7.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Remove, clean, and inspect vacuum modulator assembly and modulator valve,[/FONT]
SGT LongT
Member
- 203
- 23
- 18
- Location
- Palm Bay, FL
SLIPS IN SECOND OR SHIFTS 1-3 (MISSES SECOND)
Step 1. Remove, disassemble, clean, and inspect intermediate clutch assembly. (See
paragraph 5-19)
Step 2. Inspect center support assembly, intermediate clutch, and intermediate clutch
piston seals. (See paragraph 5-19)
You are going to need to look in the TM-9-2320-289-34 and look for paragraph 5-19 because there are too many steps to list and you might need the pictures for reference. Good Luck.
Step 1. Remove, disassemble, clean, and inspect intermediate clutch assembly. (See
paragraph 5-19)
Step 2. Inspect center support assembly, intermediate clutch, and intermediate clutch
piston seals. (See paragraph 5-19)
You are going to need to look in the TM-9-2320-289-34 and look for paragraph 5-19 because there are too many steps to list and you might need the pictures for reference. Good Luck.
k4vem4n
New member
- 76
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Fort Lauderdale, Fl
I have the TM open for my project, in the morning, trying to get my truck to shift. It may be obvious, but I had to ask (got me a bit confused)....Is this Vacuum DUMP a typo? (what the heck is that???) They are referring to the PUMP correct? Just tryin to be clear before I take everything apart.....
charlietango
Member
- 505
- 20
- 18
- Location
- Winnipeg
Pretty sure they mean vacuum PUMP.
I was going to say... I had a bad vacuum pump and it was doing similar things. If you aren't getting vacuum it will not shift properly. Glad you got it sorted out.
First thing to do with these trucks is check all the vacuum lines as they are typically rotted out. I had one that looked normal until I touched it and it turned to black dust in my hands. For the cost I'd just say its safe to replace them all, bypass the rubber 'dummy' block that connects into the vacuum advance unit on the top front of the intake as well. Mine was hiding a large crack on the seam that was only noticeable when you physically twisted it. If you aren't a dummy then you won't hook them up backwards anyways. Barring that doesn't work if you test it and there is still no vacuum then replace the pump. 9/10 this will solve your issues WRT shifting.
fyi that advance controller controls how fast your trans shifts. It could also fail. Internally its a large spring.
I was going to say... I had a bad vacuum pump and it was doing similar things. If you aren't getting vacuum it will not shift properly. Glad you got it sorted out.
First thing to do with these trucks is check all the vacuum lines as they are typically rotted out. I had one that looked normal until I touched it and it turned to black dust in my hands. For the cost I'd just say its safe to replace them all, bypass the rubber 'dummy' block that connects into the vacuum advance unit on the top front of the intake as well. Mine was hiding a large crack on the seam that was only noticeable when you physically twisted it. If you aren't a dummy then you won't hook them up backwards anyways. Barring that doesn't work if you test it and there is still no vacuum then replace the pump. 9/10 this will solve your issues WRT shifting.
fyi that advance controller controls how fast your trans shifts. It could also fail. Internally its a large spring.
Last edited:
k4vem4n
New member
- 76
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Fort Lauderdale, Fl
Thanks. Yeah the lines felt very dry and loose fit, seems like a good idea to just avoid the headache and change them all out now.
k4vem4n
New member
- 76
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Fort Lauderdale, Fl
Ok so the vacuum lines look pretty new except for the small section on top of the pump (felt like bubble gum rolled in dirt). I changed that one out. The pump is only pulling about 7" so I ordered another one, it'll be here thursday. The good news is that with the new hose on and the old pump, it is now shifting, and it actually doesn't feel bad at all. The new pump will just be for my piece of mind.
Thanks for the help and thank god for TMs.
Thanks for the help and thank god for TMs.
charlietango
Member
- 505
- 20
- 18
- Location
- Winnipeg
no doubt i had the exact same trouble.. changed the lines it got better but still not 100%, changed pump and voila. It will work out. TM's and experience here will save your bacon. These trucks are way past their life expectancy so expect to nickle and dime for the next while... usually its the little crap that adds up haha