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M1009 U-joints & seal, bushing too?

jaymcb

Active member
My new-to-me M1009 has a driveline vibration and transfer case leak which led me to verify failed driveshaft u-joints, and it looks like the last owner drove with bad the bad u-joints for a while, which took out the seal on the transfer case.

I guess the question is, if I'm swapping the joints and the seal, my wayback machine mind tells me there might be a bushing in the transfer case as well. Should I swap out that as well while it is apart?

Also, any recommendations on parts? GM? NAPA? AutoZone? someone else?

Don't like the idea of ChiCom steel in my CUCV if I can avoid it.....
 

Anubis8472

New member
149
3
0
Location
Redford, Michigan
Well the U-joints are GM 3R series, though every parts store and manufacturer want's to only use thier own part numbers and application list.

I wouldn't bother with the local parts stores if you want a quality U-joint.
They simply don't carry them any more, after spending a weekend driving around town I went ahead and picked up a cheap set. I'll have to order some better ones down the line.

I've snapped both front and rear joints on my '78 K-5, I would highly advise using sealed non-greasable joints. They are not cross drilled so the cross is stronger. I've seen spicer 3R series sealed for around $30 a peice.

I'm pretty sure the T-case uses a bearing set (not a bushing) but I'm not sure how much you would have to tear into it to change. It could be a 'may as well rebuild it' proposition.
Check it for play, make a judgment on whether you think they're going. If it feels good, just replace the seal and keep an eye on it.

Check your pinion seal/bearing while you're there. The same issue can cause them to leak/fail as well.
 

jaymcb

Active member
The auto parts store says there is a bushing and seal kit for the '208 transfer case.

Anyone ever pull one? They wanted over 100 bucks for a slide hammer kit to pull it out.

For the $, it makes more sense to pay someone to change it :(

I've got the shaft off, about to go and change the u-joints.
 

idM1028

New member
429
1
0
Location
Somewhere in Nebraska
I'd say do it yourself. If you pay someone, they always want more to do it. Firestone wanted to charge me something like $800 or $900 to do a coolant flush and put new shocks on the truck.:shock: And they had JUST THE BEST REASONING! Said it was because of "the age of the vehicle." I'd say go ahead and just do it yourself. Nothing wrong with a little CUCV love. As far as U-joints, if mine ever go out, greaseable 1410's here we come!
 
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