Need help with my M1009 windshield frame repair. I need to repair the areas that have rusted through and don't know if they sell the complete panel where I can drill out the spot welds and replace the entire frame or not. How have others repaired this area? I didn't find and threads talking about this specifically. Thank you.
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M1009 Windshield frame rust repair/replace
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cucvrus
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They do not make a replacement part for that. You will need to remove the windshield and get busy. i just finished repairing one that was only rusty at the top. The bottom rust is harder to repair but can be done with patience and is very time consuming. You need to cut pieces and weld them in and grind and fill as needed. Very labor intense. And the bad part is the dash inside and the defroster duct work and most of the wiring harness under the dash should be removed to do it right. That rust was caused in my opinion by the improper application of the 686 desert tan paint. They laid it on heavy with the MEK thinner and it ate trough the original paint and primer and rusted from inside out. I have seen this many times. I learned the hard way a few times myself and stripped the paint back off and re sprayed it. I am not saying they don't rust at the windshield they do but when I see the tan paint I know how sloppy they are with sanding and paint. And it lays in the corners and eats away at the under coating paint while it is drying and starts a place for rust.
Wow thank you.. I have a stretcher/shrinker and a tig and a mig machine so I have the tools to do it. Just didn't know if there were ready made panels. Thanks for the insight. I'll pull the windshield and mark the bead also. I'll post up some pics once I get the glass out. See how bad it really is.
cucvrus
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I had the same issue in the upper part of the roof. Some half wit put a remote spotlight on the roof skin with screws and never sealed the holes. The roof was always leaking. I removed the light and caulked the holes shut and patched the entire area till this year when I welded the holes shut and repaired the entire area. Good luck and be careful. Do not weld late and then go in the house. I always weld 2 hours before I close my shop. Safety. I am working out of a 100 year old barn. I hope that helps.Looks pretty similar to my roof. I already had to cut out some rust where the roof lip meets the fiberglass rear top. Had to form some crazy right angle with a bend.. Hard but fun. That came out well. Thanks for the pics and info! Every bit helps me.
Where you meaning be careful of a fire in the truck if I walk away from it immediately? Good tip, thank you. I'm working out in the driveway so it usually takes me a while to pack all my stuff up in the garage anyhow. I'll be on the look out more since you mentioned it. I have a fire ext on my welding cart too.
cucvrus
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Hey if you need i have a few rust free cabs i can cut up for you and you can get pieces out of the pieces I send you. I can give you a great deal on this window channel. Save you a lot of time trying to make it. The ones I have are rust free. Let me know I can post pictures for you.
Hmm.. I think I may take you up on that. I'm down in North Florida so shipping may be an issue. Let me pull the glass and see how bad it is and what all I may need.
Thanks!
cucvrus
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Why would shipping be an issue. I can saw this up and box it in a box in pieces and you can cut the pieces out you need and weld it back in place. it will work. I would say 1/2 the width of the windshield would be the longest box I would use. And it would not be heavy. Let me know. i must get some pictures for you if you are interested.
Cucvrus - do you still have the parts for the windshield? I'd be interested in working something out with you. I can PM for this. Thanks!
NovacaineFix
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Metal would be the best repair like CUCVRUS is suggesting. I repaired mine partially with metal and the rest with a fiberglass epoxy resin filler, like bondo but much better. If I had to do it again, and I probably will, 
I would weld in fresh rust-free metal.
Mine went bad when I 1st bought the truck due to a rotted and petrified windshield gasket and a broken windshield.
The problem with the epoxy is you have to have something behind it to hold it in place until it sets and cures. The good thing with the metal is if you weld in too much, just grind it away and smooth it out.
Here are some pics of when I 1st did mine, but go with the metal, much better.
Mine, the top and bottom corners of the passenger side were the worst for wear.
Oh, and remember to leave the drain holes in the lower corners, or your rust will come back quickly (seen in 3rd pic)
I would weld in fresh rust-free metal.Mine went bad when I 1st bought the truck due to a rotted and petrified windshield gasket and a broken windshield.
The problem with the epoxy is you have to have something behind it to hold it in place until it sets and cures. The good thing with the metal is if you weld in too much, just grind it away and smooth it out.
Here are some pics of when I 1st did mine, but go with the metal, much better.
Mine, the top and bottom corners of the passenger side were the worst for wear.
Oh, and remember to leave the drain holes in the lower corners, or your rust will come back quickly (seen in 3rd pic)
cucvrus
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Yes I still have the front windshield parts. And they are still available to you. But you are not getting off that easy. Where are the pictures you said you would post when you had the windshield out. Hey I didn't forget. Lets see them. Let me know on the parts. I am up to my neck right now. I am still able to breath and have tons of work here and at home but I can fit that in somewhere. Thank you. Have a great day.
nyoffroad
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Using a cut out panel would be the hot ticket! To bad you can't out it all in one piece! have an overlapping seam just shy of the rear edge of the door post and then wherever you want on the roof itself, I'd even drill out the spot welds on the "donor" part and grind the welds out on the old one. More or skinning it. No problem with windshield fit, that's critical!
nyoffroad
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CUCVUS, I gotta come down and see you 'collection' some day, I've got a lot of parts but you sure have me beat!
cucvrus
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Come down in 2 weeks and go wheeling with us at Rausch Creek. Great fun on April 1-3 weekend. I will be there Saturday, April 2nd.
Haha I know I'm sorry I haven't had the windshield out yet. I have been cleaning up my Deuce I am selling so that has taken my spare time. I will try to pop it out soon to get a full assessment. I definitely want to purchase the metal from you and just weld in new pieces hopefully using the pot welds where possible like nyoffroad mentioned.
Thanks!!
cucvrus
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What ever you want to do. I am a master with a sawzall and an 8 inch blade. Just measure the size and I can send it one piece. It will not be heavy but size will be an issue. Find a business delivery address to send it to and that will save $. I sent a complete tarp and bow set from an M1008 to NC and it was not real bad price wise to ship. Just let me know I will pre-post pictures for your approval of the donor part. I will cut and it is yours. No refunds and non returnable. If that works let me know. Have saw will cut.
Awesome sounds great thank you!