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M1009 with 35" tires no lift.

danoscooter

danoscooter

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Finally got a chance to put on the new tires and rims this past weekend. I decided to go with 35" BFGs AT KOs that are 12.5" wide on 16.5" rims. I went with the 16.5s because I plan on swapping the axels out in the next couple of years and I want to put humvee take off rims and tires.

I started by trimming on the rear front fenders. It didn't even make it out of my driveway without the tires rubbing. They were catching on the front edge of the front fenders when I was turning and hitting a bump. So I had to do another round of trimming. After that everything seems to clear pretty well for city driving. I initially was gonna buy the 37s right away but didn't want to bog down the 3.09 gearing. I'm glad I didn't though because I would of need to cut out a good piece of the inner fender or beat it in pretty good with a sledge hammer.

I will most likely lifting it a little bit in the end because the back end of the 09 is lower than the front. Visually it bothers me. lol



Daniel
 

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danoscooter

danoscooter

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I think a two inch lift is what ill end up doing.

I was hesitant about trimming and modifying the fenders at first, but once I got the sawzall in my hands that all changed. Im going to try and leave the rear fenders alone though but we will see.

Just all depends on if you want to leave the fenders stock or not. With 33s I wouldnt even lift it, I wouldjust trim.
 
richingalveston

richingalveston

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If you plan to do moderate off road driving or more.
My opinion is that I would not put anything larger on a 1009 than 33's unless you do some upgrading to the axle. High strength axle shafts etc. and with that I would not go over 35 inch tires unless I did an axle swap. The 10 bolts are very limited.

If you do a lift, I would not recommend less than 4 inch. With the shackle flip option it is the cheapest lift when staying away from blocks. 4 inch would allow for more future options such as cross over steering and hydro steering.

You might find some Happiness in the 35's with high strength axle shafts and 2 inch blocks but that will just leave you thirsting for more because once you start wheeling it you will soon realize its limits and want more.

If it is a highway cruiser then just throw some blocks under it and have a cool grocery getter.

33's will work with no lift, 35's need 2 inch, 37's 4 inch. All might rub slightly but it is in places that wont hurt. May have to nip the corners of the fenders.

Of course the wider the tire you get the more fender trimming is needed.
 
danoscooter

danoscooter

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I do plan on swapping the axels out but couldnt fit the bill for all the upgrades at once. I needed new tires and thought it would be a waste gettin 31's or 33's knowing what my main goal with the truck is.

For now I just got to keep this thing on a budget. I dont plan on getting rid of it so Im just doing a little bit at a time.

Thanks for the input.
 
danoscooter

danoscooter

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Thanks 98G! I took my time on the rear of the front fenders but kinda rushed the the fronts. Im gonna cut more off the fronts but didnt want to get into taking the bumper off. So ill get ino that adventure at a future date.
 
I

Ilikemtb999

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98G said:
This leads me to believe 33's and a 4" lift is optimal. Especially if not changing out the 10bolt differentials. Comments?
Click to expand...
I don't have any problems with my 2" spring lift and 33" tires. Really it's when i'm fully articulated and I've got my wheels cut to that side. I think with some careful trimming it would be a non issue.
 
sschaefer3

sschaefer3

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I have 37's on a M1008 with 4" of lift and I had to really cut into the rear of the fender and weld a patch piece back in. No rubbing now.
 
Skinny

Skinny

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Keep in mind that unless your truck has fairly new springs or you know they were replaced at some point with a record...you more than likely have the originals. That means 30 years of sag and poor ride built right in to every set. Putting in 2" springs will probably give you really good results in the height and ride department. Even if you didn't want to fit larger rubber, a new set of springs will probably be a good long term investment even with stock tires. Don't forget, even if you do get larger tires in there, you are now asking even more from the suspension and steering.
 
richingalveston

richingalveston

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A big key to making the tires fit is the wheel. The farther you push the tire out, the more lift you need because you are no longer in the center of the wheel well. you do not want to rub on the inside frame rail but the closer you keep it to the frame the more wheel well you are using and therefore reducing the fender trimming at the outer edges.
 
llong66

llong66

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richingalveston said:
If you plan to do moderate off road driving or more.
My opinion is that I would not put anything larger on a 1009 than 33's unless you do some upgrading to the axle. High strength axle shafts etc. and with that I would not go over 35 inch tires unless I did an axle swap. The 10 bolts are very limited.
Click to expand...
Rich, I don't mean to change the subject of hijack the OP, but I have an M1008 and am going to be rebuilding the front end 'Dana 60", I am planning an a 4" lift and highly doubt I will go over 35" tires. I wont be doing alot of hard core offroading, no rock crawling or anything like that. Whats your opinion on the stock Dana 60 axles? With what I plan on doing, do you feel the factory axle shafts are strong enough for 35s and modest offroading?

Thanks,
Greg
 
richingalveston

richingalveston

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you can put 44's on a dana 60. I have 39's on my dana 60. You may need a washer or two under the kingpin springs to tighten them a little more for the larger heavier tire. The larger tires will stress the kingpin springs and can cause the 'death wobble'. I have the no spring kit from Ord on my d60 with one extra washer.

.

If you are doing a 4 inch lift with 35's you will not have any problems probably no fender rub problems either.
The best money you can spend after the lift is cross over steering
 
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