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M1009 won't crank or even light up

pacebm

Member
140
0
16
Location
Brewton, Alabama
Hello all, I haven't been on here in a while because I sold my old M1009 but I am afraid I have bought a basket case that I thought I could fix. Price was right so I rolled the dice and I need some help.

Previous owner converted to 12 volt and push button glow plug switch. Not real sure what else was completed but I did see the doghead relay appears to be on there.

I push the button for the glow plugs and it appears to work as it is supposed to because I hear the solenoid engage.

Here is my problem: Turn the switch inside and nothing happens. No lights come on in the dash, and definitely will not crank.

I have verified 12 volts across the positive bus and the junction box. The headlights do work, just nothing controlled by the switch. PO says it ran fine before but we will see. If nothing else I can sell y'all parts or sell it as scrap but I would like to get it running for my stepson. Is there something obvious I am missing? Maybe a fuse? I'm stumped so this is my version of phone a friend.
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10,184
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113
Location
Camp Wood/LC, TX
Time to poke around in the Doghead relay area with a volt meter or test light. The one of thick wires come from the battery and should have 12 volts all the time. The other thick wire goes to the starter. One of the other wires comes from the ignition switch and will have 12 volts when you turn the ign switch.

Hopefully other members will chime in and tell what colors the wires are, I cant remember.
 

pacebm

Member
140
0
16
Location
Brewton, Alabama
I don't know. When I turn the switch nothing on the dash lights up. I wonder if a wire was left loose during the conversion or maybe a bad switch. I am going thru the TM's and plan to diagram the system tomorrow but I thought someone might have run into this before. I will check the relay tomorrow as well. It's going to take a systematic approach of walking thru all the connectors and making sure I have 12 volts where I need it. Oh well, you get what you pay for! LOL
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
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Location
Virginia
Look up the fusible link section in the "Helpful Threads" sticky at the top of the forum. I'm betting you'll find some fried links.
 

pacebm

Member
140
0
16
Location
Brewton, Alabama
I did notice one thing on the batteries which looked strange to me but could be perfectly fine. Both (-) connect to the (-) bus bar and then another 4 gauge wire connects it to the engine. The (+) on both batteries connect together and then to the (+) bus bar. This all seems fine for the 12 volt but it seems like one of the batteries should be directly grounded to the frame. I'm obviously no electrical guru and color blind on top of everything else so this will take some time and a lot of looking. I did verify with the PO that he used the Roscommon 12V conversion method so at least I have a place to start looking. It has not ran since the conversion. He tossed the parts otherwise it would go back to 24 V. I ended up with this thing because a friend knew I had one before and his friend had it for sale. The going rate for a non running M1009 with a little rust on the fenders is $700 when the guy is fed up and can't make it run. Maybe I can't make it run either! He said he had looked around here on SS with big ideas but basically lost interest.

Thanks for all the help guys and it is great to be back in the Steel Soldiers family.
 

jpg

Member
610
13
18
Location
boston
http://www.w8ji.com/battery_wiring.htm has good fundamental info on battery grounding.

Your negative distribution block needs an excellent connection to the frame/chassis, in addition to the connection to the engine. You don't want your chassis ground path to pass through the engine in order to get to the battery.
 
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pacebm

Member
140
0
16
Location
Brewton, Alabama
After several hours with the wiring diagrams and looking at the PO's wiring......the truck starts!

Cranked her up and immediately smoke is pouring from the idle temperature switch/sensor (passenger side, down low). The plug is burned up and the end of the switch/sensor is burned off. I never had an issue with one of these before. Do I need to replace it or just let it go. A cold day down here is in the 40's. FYI The glow plug system is completely manual and wired separately from the original GP system. Give me you thoughts.
 
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