M1010 for my daughter the field biologist

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rustystud

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My experience has been it will only bind on ether and not start if NO diesel is present. I use a whiff on occasion. Extreme conditions call for extreme measures. Not recommended on a daily basis.
What you do is start cranking the engine over, then spray some ether down the throat. It will start up for a second. I have actually kept a diesel running on ether until the can emptied out. We where trying to get the stupid pump to prime at the time.
Didn't work since it had other issues.
Like I said earlier though, you really never want to use ether to start up a diesel engine. You can cause some serious damage to the engine if your not extremely careful.
 

antennaclimber

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It's been nearly 7 months since the last update, did you get the truck running yet?

Update:
OP states that due to the cold and snow, he has not been able to work on the truck.
 
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The truck is running now. New shocks fixed the death wobble. The original shock bushings were shot.

I finally found a shop that handles heavy diesels. I pulled into the lot and it was full of big dump trucks etc. They got my IP working properly, with no fuel or air leaks.

I know the 6.2 isn't heavy, but it's clearly too heavy for all the shops I've tried before, ever since Walmart bought out the shop that supported me initially.

No truck projects planned in the near term. We're busy using it. Pulling a heavy load up a steep hill requires patience, and you spend a lot of time blowing coal with the throttle floored, but it gets there, eventually.

My daughter decided she'd rather have a RAV4, so I guess this truck is mine, as several of you predicted. Fine by me. I'll install comms gear and make it a mobile office.
 

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YES Ether in a 6.2 or 6.5 will in fact destroy it.
I don't even own ether.

My problems were several bad IPs, then loose fuel connections that either allowed air into the fuel lines or fuel out of the fuel lines or both. Once we installed a good IP with tight lines, all was well. My problem was inadequate experience. When I installed a brand new but bad IP, I was newbie toast.
 

emeralcove

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My M1009 went through a similar starting issue, but I suspected the IP before it completely failed (but not by much). I pulled the IP, sent out and had it overhauled, put it back in and have not had a issue with it since. From what I learned, it is more of an age thing than the miles on it, the seals dry up and harden from the age rather than wear and tear. Although I did have fuel filter problems especially if I parked on an incline with the nose uphill overnight, it would become extremely hard to start and required air to be bleed from the filter. A new filter did not solve it, the base and the sensors were the problem and they weren't cheap or readily available. Most times I lean toward trying not to re-invent the wheel, but in this case I went with a different filter that has a hand priming pump on it because bleeding the original one was a pain in the tight parking space I had at the time. Although once I fixed the problems I have not had to use the hand primer since, but regardless it is there if I do something stupid like run out of fuel. I made a aluminum plate that attaches to the stock stamped steel bracket and a couple AN push-on 90 degree fittings to keep it neat plus a needle valve and spout to allow easy bleeding............ which I haven't had to do, LOL Fuel filter 1.jpg
I know many have done this modification. Now that I am in a cooler climate I will add a fuel heater and water sensor that are available for this filter.
 

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I'm back at it, after some health setbacks. Current project is an electrical issue. I seem to have lost many of the 12v systems. I get power from the battery, through the fusable link, through the first to components on the firewall. When I turn the key, I get lights associated with 24V system, but not 12.
IMG_2016.jpg
I know there is a wealth of material on the site about debugging problems like this. I have lots of reading to do. This post is just to say I'm back at it. If anyone cares to offer pointers or wisdom, I'm all ears.
 

WARWAG

Active member
Check your fuse block. see if its hot or slightly warped. if so clean all of your grounds. Check your voltage on each battery. Do you still have the Duvac system? Its the box at the front left (drivers side) of the engine compartment. bolted to the fender in the front of the fender. If you still have it do you're self a favor and get rid of it. Check out the thread "Plan B" posted by "38inmaine", great thread. Since I was missing the Duvac system (reduces 24v to 12c) I just installed a 12V alternator (top Alternator). I used a leece neville alternator that bolted right into the same alt bracket. It also uses the pulley off of the 28V alt that it is replacing. Uses same belt. while you are there you should replace all of the belts.

PLan B Thread:
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?101135-M1010-DUVAC-Removal-Plan-quot-B-quot

Leece Neville Alt:
Leece Neville (110-555JHO) 12v 160A
 
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Thanks WARWAG. Fuse block is my next stop.

I don't have the DUVAC. I have an original 24V alternator below, and a leece 12V above. That 12V bolted right in and used the same pulley, but it won't move left far enough that I can get a belt on it. If I use a belt I can install, I don't have enough range of motion to get it tight. If I want to be able to properly tension the belt, I have to dismount the alternator to install the belt. I'll look into the model you mention below. Thanks!

I have another part mystery that I'll mention, in case you know. The lower alternator cuts the standard lower radiator hose. Do you know the part # for the M1010 lower radiator hose that's routed away from the alternator belt?

I did the headlight relay mod to move current away from the fuse block. It wasn't warped last I checked.

The 12V failure was intermittent before it fully failed. It failed momentarily twice in the months before it failed fully. I guess I just need to limber up my contortionist skills and get in there with my meter to find my open circuit.

Check your fuse block. see if it hot or slightly warped. if so clean all of your grounds. Check your voltage on each battery. Do you still have the Duvac system? Its the box at the front right of the engine compartment. bolted to the fender in the front of the fender. If you still have it do you're self a favor and get rid of it. Check out the thread "Plan B" posted by "38inmaine", great thread. Since I was missing the Duvac system (reduces 24v to 12c) I just installed a 12V alternator (top Alternator). I used a leece neville alternator that bolted right into the same alt bracket. It also uses the pulley off of the 28V alt that it is replacing. Uses same belt. while you are there you should replace all of the belts.

PLan B Thread:
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?101135-M1010-DUVAC-Removal-Plan-quot-B-quot

Leece Neville Alt:
Leece Neville (110-555JHO) 12v 160A
 
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WARWAG

Active member
Sounds like you have the wrong belt on the 12v Alt. I will see if my truck is off the rack today. If so I will get you that belt part number. As far as the lower radiator hose I will check on that as well. I believe its the same as on the M1008/M1028 ect.

So you only have one Alternator hooked up? Or working? How did you hook up the 12V Alt. same as on the Plan B Thread? Make sure nothing is shorting out. Check to make sure all the Duvac wiring is properly wrapped in electrical tape. I used Liquid Electrical Tape on all the ends and then wrapped in in 3M HD electrical take.
 
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Mad Texan

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Thanks WARWAG. Fuse block is my next stop.

I don't have the DUVAC. I have an original 24V alternator below, and a leece 12V above. That 12V bolted right in and used the same pulley, but it won't move left far enough that I can get a belt on it. If I use a belt I can install, I don't have enough range of motion to get it tight. If I want to be able to properly tension the belt, I have to dismount the alternator to install the belt. I'll look into the model you mention below. Thanks!

I have another part mystery that I'll mention, in case you know. The lower alternator cuts the standard lower radiator hose. Do you know the part # for the M1010 lower radiator hose that's routed away from the alternator belt?

I did the headlight relay mod to move current away from the fuse block. It wasn't warped last I checked.

The 12V failure was intermittent before it fully failed. It failed momentarily twice in the months before it failed fully. I guess I just need to limber up my contortionist skills and get in there with my meter to find my open circuit.
I had to notch the alternator bracket as the leece neville 12v alternator is a slightly different shape. Still was a chore to get the belt on but it's tight now. Pretty sure I'm running a NAPA 9585HD belt on mine. I started with the 9590HD and it finally went to the end of the adjustment. As well I have been running the NAPA lower hose, I trimmed the radiator end to get it away from the belt. I can easily get my hand between the belt and hose all the way around. I attached a pic for reference and have since moved the water pump end up further or at least straightened the clamp... :roll:
 

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Thanks. If you look at Page 31, post 306, you'll see the kludge I have in place. I tried a bunch of combinations of trimming and torturing the cucv hose. My alternator belt eventually eats through them. I spoke to a radiator shop who was willing to build me a custom hose. I haven't gotten to that project yet.
 

Snakebite

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I own an M1010 it's a great smaller military vehicle. Mine is my daily driver. I use it for everything. The only places it isn't good for are drive throughs and garages. The 6.2 engine is strong and the fact it's a 4x4 means it can go almost anywhere.
 
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