When I first got the truck I had no issues at all until about a couple of months ago I started running into issues, when I wanted to run the truck I'd have to jumpstarted it. replacing the battery's did not seem to help that. After living on jump starts for a while, even when I did jumpstart it the power would slowly drain anytime I took my foot off the throttle and The lights would go off. I recently got my hands on another duvac system and put that in the truck. when turning it back on nothing seem to change. I don't know what the problem could be.
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M1010 starting issues
- Thread starter Matt19
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If you want the problem to go away forever, read this thread.... twice.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...DUVAC-Removal-Plan-quot-B-quot&highlight=plan
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...DUVAC-Removal-Plan-quot-B-quot&highlight=plan
dependable
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The old duvacs can be a problem. I converted a 1010 I have to a regular CUCV by switching the wire harness after the duvac 'melted'. Seems to be a common problem, mostly age related.
There is a good thread about an alternative which keeps the 24V you need for the cabin AC . Something like M-1010 plan B, if you search this site.
There is a good thread about an alternative which keeps the 24V you need for the cabin AC . Something like M-1010 plan B, if you search this site.
m38inmaine
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DUVAC, that's your problem. Also if you park it for any length of time be sure to set the service light toggle switch to off.
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If you go to post #2 and follow that thread, you can fix your issues, retain the 24V system, run your rear A/C and have the ability to get replacement alternators locally at almost any hour. The work has already been done, you just have to look.
WARWAG
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Time for plan B.
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Plan B.
1 12V alt.
1 24V alt.
Remove DUVAC
All is well
1 12V alt.
1 24V alt.
Remove DUVAC
All is well
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FYI, I'm the odd man out. I have 2 of the 110-555JHO alts on mine. Works flawlessly and has been for years. Still retains all 24V functions.
m38inmaine
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I don't see where anyone here is talking about a 12v conversion. My plan B restores the truck to it's original electrical configuration eliminating the failed DUVAC.
after 10k miles on Plan B, I wish I had done this instead. at some point, I probably will.
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May as well wait until the 24V unit fails.
im going to go with the "plan c" mod... I was thinking about taking the bottom 24 volt alt. and using that to charge the 2 12 volt starting batteries, then using the top 12 alt. from the plan b mod to run a seperate 12 volt auxiliary battery. Any thoughts?
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Yes, 90% of the truck runs on 12V from the front battery. If you use the top alt for an aux battery, how are you going to maintain the lopsided drain on that front battery? Drawing off one battery in a 24V system is called center tapping. It creates an imbalance between the 2 12V batteries. One will overcharge and the other undercharge. If you go a battery equalizer you will be close to what you had with the Duvac. Don't overthink it. That "Plan B" system is the best one yet for the M1010.
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Then what are you gaining?
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OK but are you saying you can't run a deep cycle battery now? You will need an isolator to effectively charge the deep cycle and truck battery at the same time. I run several devices off the back battery on mine by not using a common ground stuff. Even my SECM runs its light tower off the back battery. I say go for it and keep us posted on how it works out. Hopefully it does what you want for as many thousands of miles as the "Plan B" has worked for the rest of us.
So I went to do the plan b and ran into some issues. My resister blew sending 24 Volts to my glow plugs.... Not only that, but then to start my engine I shot ether in; and it started up... I took the readings and the voltage was good. But as the truck was running for alittle, I notcied a weird smell followed by smoke.. It seems that I was burning my oil or maybe it's my coolant.. I don't know what could have caused this? And on top of all this my Voltmeter isn't working.