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M101A3 mods for Jeep/off road

wADVr

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Carnation, WA
Hello,

I have recently acquired a M101A3 that I will be using primarily for a utility trailer and camping. I have a 09 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited that actually pulls it around ok. Certainly not going to pull further than a few miles with a heavy load but maybe a several hundred pounds of firewood and Elk camp supplies longer distances over mountain passes and on Forest roads/possible light jeep trails.

I was originally looking for a A2 but ended up with this A3 which I am happy with the upgrades. I understand this trailer is rated at 3500lbs as is my Jeep which works out but the axle and brakes are much heavier duty than that, maybe 5200lbs or so I'm guessing. I had really intended to share the Jeep spare which is 37" on a 5x5" bolt patern 17" wheel. It seems as though many just swap in a Dexter or similar 3500lb axle (2.375" tubes) with electric brakes. I want the 5x5" bolt patern and electric brakes but not the small tubes and kind of like the raised center portion of the current A3 axle I have.... So would it be blasphemy to cut the A3 spindles off and weld on 3500lb (1750lb each) spindles so I can match my Jeep? Would love to keep the larger spindles and use 12" brakes but I find no way to use the small 5x5" wheel bolt pattern. I have not yet tested the surge brakes nor have I had a trailer with them (always had electric brakes) but will probably be removing them. Not sure what some of these components are worth to sell but assuming they are on working order I was planning on selling the Surge brake/lunette/landing gear and wheels/tires. If I cut up the axle maybe the brakes are worthwhile to sell, maybe not. If the axle has some value maybe it is worthwhile to keep complete and swap in a 'normal' axle.

Anyone have any input on these thoughts?

Thanks,
 

quickfarms

Active member
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Location
Orange Junction, CA
Personally I prefer the hydraulic brakes.

Properly working surge brakes are great.

On a surplus, or any used, trailer the brakes, bearings and suspension need to be serviced.

The surge brake actuator can suffer from several issues. First check it for physical damage such as being bent. Second check the condition of the fluid. Third a lot of the actuators are full of sand and need to be cleaned out. The single biggest operational issue is the internal shock absorber is bad.

As far as the axle goes you can order the axle with hydraulic brakes. The raised center section is no advantage when towing is behind a solid axle vehicle.

I have never liked electric brakes. They are quite common today on trailers because they are cheap and easy for the manufacturer to install.
 

rosco

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Delta Junction, Alaska
That A3 is far more rare & valuable then say an A2 or especially an A 1 (the bodies & frame, are the same). If your swapping out the axle, do it to one of the latter, and sell the A3. Its a real shame to chop an A3 just to get wheel size. The surge brakes are far more reliable the electric.
 

wADVr

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Carnation, WA
Thanks, I have never used this style brakes, I guess I should give them a chance before writing them off. For the most part I agree with the raised axle not being an advantage but knowing I will have less control over tire placement of the trailer I like the idea of having more clearance from large boulders littered on our twisty trails. Not that I will make it a habit.
 

86m1028

Active member
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Location
Murphy TEXAS
What are your plans for the trailer ?
I would think an A2 would serve you better. The A3 has the fender extensions & I believe would be wider than you jeep.
If your gonna use the trailer on trails & such, not just pulling it down the road, surge brakes SUCK !
You can not backup uphill or on real soft ground without locking out the surge brakes, the added resistance will apply the brakes. On a trail trailer I would convert to electric brakes.
 

DeadParrot

Active member
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Location
oklahoma city, ok
2nd to what Rosco said. Since you want to do an axle swap to have matching wheels and go to electric brakes, an 101A1 is a better choice. No surge brake assembly on the tongue and a lot of folks swap axles on those to get rid of the multi part wheels so there are many helpful threads on this site.

Another advantage of the A1 is you can both flip the lunette ring and the entire nose to get the ring to better match your hitch. Flipping the nose means you get to redo the landing leg but for a trail trailer, you probably want a jack anyway.
 

Tinstar

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Dexter Axle makes a exact replacement hydraulic brake assembly called Free-back.
Never worry about locking out brakes on loaded trailer.

Surge brakes are wonderful when maintained.
Braking action is so much smoother than electric.
My A2s tow great and you don't even know their there.

As already stated, electric brakes are on more trailers because they are cheaper to buy and install.
I personally can't stand electric brakes.


I recommend you get a A2 or A1 if your going to modify that much.
The A3 is wider than your jeep. The others are not.
A3 is worth too much to turn around and cut up.
 

86m1028

Active member
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Location
Murphy TEXAS
Dexter Axle makes a exact replacement hydraulic brake assembly called Free-back.
Never worry about locking out brakes on loaded trailer.

Surge brakes are wonderful when maintained.
Braking action is so much smoother than electric.
My A2s tow great and you don't even know their there.
As already stated, electric brakes are on more trailers because they are cheaper to buy and install.
I personally can't stand electric brakes.
I recommend you get a A2 or A1 if your going to modify that much.
The A3 is wider than your jeep. The others are not.
A3 is worth too much to turn around and cut up.
A good quality brake controller that is adjusted properly is seamless !
Havent heard of the free-back, have to do a little research on that.
 

John Galt

Member
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Fort Worth, TX
The surge break on the 101s are junk. Like mentioned, they are not free backing so that is a deal breaker. You will also find the bulky actuator assemble will interfere with tailgate.

The best features of these trailers are the axle/suspension and parking breaks IMO. If you go as far as an axle swap, might as well just build a trailer from scratch that matches the track width and hub pattern of jeep.

The A2 and A3 are similar but there are some significant differences, offset axle, track width, frame construction, leaf springs, tub geometry. An A2 is a much better platform for a jeep.

If you stay with the A3, I would just add electric backing plates and hubs to the current axle, keep parking brakes, extend tounge/ditch surge brake assembly.

The chassis/frame is actually not that heavy, it's the tub that makes these trailers heavy for their size. With the tub you are probably looking at 1600-1800 lbs empty after mods and street rated tires. Just the rolling chassis is 800-1000 lbs.
 
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wADVr

New member
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1
Location
Carnation, WA
Good info. As said I was looking for an A2 but ended up with this A3 for a relatively good deal. Seems people around here want a fortune for these trailers. On CL in my area there are two m101a2 for $2500+. No way am I paying that kind of money. At one point I gave up and was going to build one but still wanted to use the box and then found this. The A3 is 5" wider than my Jeep so not horrible but again yes an A2 would be a better match.

I posted here to find out if my suspicions of cutting one of these up to fit would be a sin- seems I was correct. I will use this trailer as is for the time being and get it 100% working order. In the mean time keep looking for a non rust bucket A1/2 or even just the bed for a reasonable price.
 

Valence

Well-known member
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I'm of a different camp. Cut it up, mod it, its yours. Make it fit your needs. Your time, money, safety, enjoyment is worth more than a trailer or anyone else's opinion.

On the other hand, due to prices in your area, if you can sell it and make a nice profit so you can get a narrower trailer that you might prefer better in the long run, go that route. Otherwise, the time, hassle, headache, and paperwork involved to "save" a trailer that will likely just be modified/abused by whoever you sell it to anyway, isn't worth it even in the slightest.

----
All of this is said with one caveat:

"Anything worth doing, is worth doing right."

Do a good, well thought-out job, or pay someone with the skills/tools to do it. The rolling, monstrous "bubba mods" I've seen are the real problem.
 
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Tinstar

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A couple in a jeep approached me while I was at the hardware store.
My M101A2 was behind my CUCV.
They said they had been looking for a trailer just like mine. They asked questions, but already knew they didn't want anything wider than the jeep itself.
They were nice and made me a good offer on the spot.
I turned it down.

I personally wouldn't want the A3 because of the drop Axle. Would sit too high, even with regular wheels.
The A2's sit nice and level with truck, as designed.

Whatever you decide to do, it's the best trailer for the money out there.
 

86m1028

Active member
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Location
Murphy TEXAS
A couple in a jeep approached me while I was at the hardware store.
My M101A2 was behind my CUCV.
They said they had been looking for a trailer just like mine. They asked questions, but already knew they didn't want anything wider than the jeep itself.
They were nice and made me a good offer on the spot.
I turned it down.
I personally wouldn't want the A3 because of the drop Axle. Would sit too high, even with regular wheels.
The A2's sit nice and level with truck, as designed.
Whatever you decide to do, it's the best trailer for the money out there.
The A3 axle does NOT make the trailer sit any higher.
The center section is just raised for more clearance.
I have 1 A3 & numerous A2's some with A2 axles & some with A3 axles under them.
They are all pretty much the same height, when like size tires are used.
The true A3 is wider because of the extended fender flares.

Agreed, for the money, they are great little trailers.
 

desmodromic

Member
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Location
New York, New York
My M101A2 was behind my CUCV.

. . . Whatever you decide to do, it's the best trailer for the money out there.
How do they compare to the M1102/2 trailers? The consensus is the M101s are a better trailer, or a better relative value because the 101s sell for less?

This is a genuine question as I do not have any experience with the M101s.
 

Tinstar

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I don't have any M1101/2's so I can't answer that.
Both the A2/3 are about the same price as the 1101/2's now.

I will stick to the older A2/3
 

86m1028

Active member
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Location
Murphy TEXAS
How do they compare to the M1102/2 trailers? The consensus is the M101s are a better trailer, or a better relative value because the 101s sell for less?
This is a genuine question as I do not have any experience with the M101s.
I have all 3 & like all 3. They have there plus's & minus's.
The m1101/1102's are wider, doesn't matter to me I pull them with a 3/4 or 1 ton truck.
I do tend to grab the m101 more often than the m1102.
I will say this again, surge brakes SUCK off road !
Typically keep mine locked out. You can't back up on soft ground or uphill with a loaded trailer.
Also the 1101/1102's have the axle farther back & makes it easy to load nose heavy.
 

Tinstar

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I just bought a brand new set of Dexter "FreeBack" complete brake assembly's.
Exact fit and includes the parking brake function.

This allows backing up a fully loaded trailer without having to lock out the surge brake.
They will be installed on the daily ranch duty M101A2.

I still love the surge brakes, but I also never take it four wheeling.
It sees ranch duty and is on paved/dirt roads several times a week. That's about it.

I love the M101A2
Extremely well built and very tough.

Have no desire for M1101/2
Plus it would look funny behind my M1008A1
 

Recovry4x4

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Few things to consider that were not covered. If you plan utility use, consider this. The fenders are actually the same size but A3 fender are positioned out further. The A3 has 55" between the fenders, all the others have 45". If you ever plan on hauling a full sheet of plywood, drywall or steel, that is a consideration. The A3 has an inch taller frame than the A1 trailers, not sure about A2 stuff. Losing the HMMWV rolling stock cuts a ton of weight off the trailer. Between the rims and run flats, they get heavy.
As far as modding the axle, you have only one real consideration. Who paid for it?
 
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