M1028 frame stiffening idea, yay? or nay?

[Shane M]

So I see alot of pictures of older trucks offroading and rock climbing with significant frame flex between the cab and bed. So i was thinking would making an 'x' brace to further strengthen the frame help? Kind of like subframe connectors? I was thinking making the 'x' brace and welding it to plates and then in turn bolting the plates to the frame with another plate on the opposite side of the frame. I figure if that doesn't stiffen it enough, add another tube on both sides of the 'x'.

thoughts? suggestions? experiences?

 

[UNIMOG-GUY]

I'm not sure why you are resistant to frame flex? Mercedes did amazingly well with the UNIMOG model and frame flex. Try to follow a stock unimog offroad in any stock or mildly modified vehicle and you'll see what I mean...well you might not because the MOG will quickly leave you in its tracks. The key to the CUCV's is to reinforce the steering box and the frame it attaches to and setup a cross over steering solution...which Trail Ready Designs has the cure/fix for both.

 

[Bob H]

So I see alot of pictures of older trucks offroading and rock climbing with significant frame flex between the cab and bed. .........................................

thoughts? suggestions? experiences?

Crawl under and look at the rear cab mounts, those tall rubber things flex alot giving the illusion of greater frame flex at the gap between bed & cab.

 

[Shane M]

I see what you guys are saying and have read about unimogs. I've read about both sides of the frame flex argument, and unfortunately don't have the knowledgebase to determine which side is most accurate. Why do so many people box the frames? I'm familiar with body mounts and can see how they'd flex just didn't realize it would cause that illusion as much as it sounds. The steering box brace is already in the works. Just trying eliminate as many weak links as possible. Have the majority of electical bugs worked out and mods done. Thanks for the info.

 

[dependable]

Don't know about the rock crawling perspective, but I have had a few truck's frames loosened up, including a 1008 converted to dump truck. Once the rivets start to flex, the forces can open up floor seem in cab and they can be little off track going down the road.

In the early 60s, chevy did use a very robust x frame, then they got really cheap, had some problems and by the mid 80s they were somewhat more robust again.

 

[tobyS]

Won't it be somewhat determined by the type of drive train you have and extent of modifications you can afford?

 

[quickfarms]

The goal off road is to keep all the wheels in contact with the ground.

Most vehicles use a combination of frame flex and suspension travel.

On a production vehicle they use a combination of the two.

If you make the frame super rigid you need to provide a lot suspension travel. This large amount of suspension travel usually results in poor on road handling. This is how the rock buggies are built.

We typically box, or reinforce, short sections of the frame in know fatigue areas, these sections are typically at the steering box and spring hangers.

Your type, and frequency, of off road use will dictate the modifications

 

[Skinny]

What are you looking to accomplish with your truck? I agree that some frame flex is necessary on a larger truck especially when you get into MDT and HDT chassis trucks with high GVW's...generally you would probably shoot for the lowest possible on a lighter duty truck. Frame flex on an offroad truck I do not see to having any advantage whether Mercedes designed it or not. A frame twisting is absorbing energy that the suspension should be taking care of. If the frame moves, that means the shocks are not controlling it which also means that the frame is reacting while traveling down the road excessively or over obstacles. Major assumption but anything 1 ton and under would ideally benefit from zero frame deflection to keep the suspension doing what it does best.


Now I wouldn't exactly jump to boxing my M1031's frame but unless you are going to rock crawl with it or use it offroad with it loaded to the GVW (which at that point you would be better just buying a Deuce), I wouldn't waste the time or effort. But please list out what your goals are with the truck first.

 

[Shane M]

My rig is just going to be a multi purpose truck that I can drive off road and still use as a daily driver. Will be putting a 4-6 inch lift on it, keep the 36" tires. I'm moving up to Alaska so we'll see if I can get some more offroad use there. Its not going to be anything crazy like a dedicated rock crawler. Just a never ending project. I'm a tinkerer and just have this urge to just keep doing things to my truck eventhough its fine the way it is.

 

[Mercunimog404]

Wanna see engineered frame flex?

 

[Skinny]

I would say spend more time and resources on items such as a fuel fired heater to get your truck warm in the morning, gauges, maybe an overdrive for lengthy road trips, etc.

Frame stiffening I would think wouldn't fall high on the list. If your truck rides that harsh, maybe a set of soft rear springs with airbags would allow the rearend to do its thing. My truck rides a lot better after replacing those 1 1/4 ton rear springs with some softer 1 ton (softer being it carries that aluminum turtle shell and oversized generator around all the time).

As far as the Mercedes engineered Mog goes...not quite sure. I guess if that floats your boat. I've worked on G wagons before. Rugged...yes. Well engineered...yeah if you have all the special service tools and accept the fact that things are built backwards just because it is "German Engineered"