M1028 in cab heater suggestions

[Thompsona3]

So I'm starting to get tired of freezeing in my truck. I just blew out my heater core so I'm hoping that helps a bit. Anyone have suggestions on in cab heaters. I thought about looking into buying an Arctic cab heater but I can't seem to find any. Any other suggestions?

 

[eme411]

I'm north of you and I do get this , have you checked all your weather strip for condition also check to see if the rubber weather seal is there for the inner door handle , one other thing you can do in remove the door panel and glue vapor barrier plastic to cover the openings in the door , GM does not do this from the factory, makes a big difference to stop some of the drafts coming out of the door , also try to do something with the gap in the door weather strip down by the floor, and check the fit of the door to the door seal , if you are still cold try a hot water heater kit also the arctic grille cover but at this point you should install a temp gauge so you know what the engine is doing, that should get you there,

 

[Thompsona3]

Thanks for the response. I'm not familiar with the hot water heaters are they easy to hook up an how much are they usualy. Also i want to get the Arctic cover but gotta save up some money first.

 

[Sharecropper]

If your heater is working as designed you should have ample heat and defrost for normal winter temperatures in Michigan. Just remember it takes a 6.2 a while to warm up to operating temperature. An arctic grille cover will increase cab heat, however you should add a temperature gauge to keep an eye on. In a pinch I have cut a piece of cardboard to fit between the grille and brush guard as a "poor man's" grille cover.

Hope this helps.

 

[tourus]

you really did not say if you are getting warm air or not but look at the heater core to be sure no cold air is going pass it.. make sure the doors are open the correct way and check to be sure that the vent out side is clear allowing air in to cab. check to be sure that the vents down by your feet are closed and tight. the is an opening behind the seat to the cab corners that is open big enough to put arm in to seal up. If the heater core is an aluminum one be sure it is seal up all round it to not let cold air pass by it. but when the truck is up to operating temp are the heater hose hot just like the upper hose. I put some pipe insulation on mine to make the water stay hotter longer to my cab . one last thing is there flow of water through the heater core could be plugged or partly plugged not allowing enough hat water throw it.

 

[Thompsona3]

Well when I blew it out it seemed to free everything up. I haven't gotten to start it yet because my batteries are shot from bleeding my fuel lines and from being outside for 2 weeks so I think the cold cranking amps are low because I charged them and It was still turning over slow. The heat itself blows less then room temp. If I can't get better than that it's not to big of a deAl I just have a girlfriend who gets cold easily.

 

[tourus]

the air coming out should be hot a lot better than room temp. it should be **** near to hot to leave you hand over the vent. should be at least 150 degrees air coming out.

 

[dependable]

You should make sure your thermostat is working well. Low engine operating temp is bad for motor, besides making for a chilly ride.

 

[Thompsona3]

The guy I bought it from used radiator stop leak crap. I'm hoping that clogged the heater core. I deffinetly should check the thermostat is there anyway it could be a lower temp thermostat because the truck was originally from Texas.