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M1031 generator speed control

SmokeyDod

New member
206
2
0
Location
Easley, SC
The M1031 that Markinnh has and the one that runs off PTO to the 6.2 are entirely two different setups that you can't compare. I don't know anything about how the Wisconsin engine handles amp loads but jbolty and mine are the same. However, ours do not run at normal idle speed which is est. 600-700 rpm. When our generator 12KV is cut on the govenor which is alum box next to the hi-idle revs the truck up so that the generator is turning at 1800 rpm. I'm not sure what rpm the 6.2 is turning but it's not far from 1400-1800 rpm (Maybe Mr Awesome can fill us in). At times (based on amp load) you can here the gov. pull lever on the IP to make is go faster, then it immediately settles back down to the 1800 rpm.
 

Mr. Awesome

New member
8
0
0
Location
niles, ohio
The M1031 that Markinnh has and the one that runs off PTO to the 6.2 are entirely two different setups that you can't compare. I don't know anything about how the Wisconsin engine handles amp loads but jbolty and mine are the same. However, ours do not run at normal idle speed which is est. 600-700 rpm. When our generator 12KV is cut on the govenor which is alum box next to the hi-idle revs the truck up so that the generator is turning at 1800 rpm. I'm not sure what rpm the 6.2 is turning but it's not far from 1400-1800 rpm (Maybe Mr Awesome can fill us in). At times (based on amp load) you can here the gov. pull lever on the IP to make is go faster, then it immediately settles back down to the 1800 rpm.

i have never worked with the wisconsin engine setup. I can guarantee though, that if it has the same style generator it will run at the same RPM. just for clarification though, this is how the system works ( with the pto drive belt sysytem): engine in park, transfer is in neutral (switch contacts close), pull pto and switch grounds inside pto, place in drive and switch closes, once all requirements are met the switch can be flipped on the dash. there are two wires on the pto that sense how fast it is turning. it is sent to the governor controller, and then to the over speed switch ( the black box missing in jbolty's picture). the relay gets power from the wire that is run to the ignition or to the fuel solenoid on the injector pump. there is a fuse in the control panel that is some what special and there is the fuse in the fuse panel for the ignition that also is for the governor circuit. the aluminum box with the rod attached to the injector pump is just a coil of wire that is current controlled from the governor controller in the back. I hope maybe that helps someone out....

I am curious to know what the wisconsin setup looks like thanks.
 

lavarok

Well-known member
1,119
33
48
Location
Fellsmere, FL
I tested the setup on one of my M1031s yesterday.
The governor worked fine until I turned off my air compressor breaker, then it went flat out. I shut the whole system down and started again, same thing. I do have hard copy TMs for this truck, so I will be digging in and figuring the whole setup out. However, I am curious if any other M1031 owners have experienced anything similar. Fortunately, "flat out" from the speed control was not the same as "pedal to the metal", but it was revved pretty high.
I have found several wiring issues, so I do suspect bad crimps and shoddy wiring.

Does anyone know if the SECM bodies were installed at depots or by units?
 

markinnh

New member
66
0
0
Location
Hinsdale NH
Are you talking about the wisconsin engine type or the PTO type? Seems to me there was some mention thet these bodies where put on in upstate NY me thinks Rochester. Some R&D dettachment?

Best,

Mark
 

SmokeyDod

New member
206
2
0
Location
Easley, SC
If you had your gear shift lever in "D" or "2" and it ran way too high, then you need to check the micro switch located on the shifter lever under your hood which is right under the steering column where you can see the compression spring that works with shifter lever. When you pull it in Drive or 2nd gear the little microswitch barely clicks. If it does click, then check out wire from there back to the control panel. You may already know this--just a check for you.
 

lavarok

Well-known member
1,119
33
48
Location
Fellsmere, FL
If you had your gear shift lever in "D" or "2" and it ran way too high, then you need to check the micro switch located on the shifter lever under your hood which is right under the steering column where you can see the compression spring that works with shifter lever. When you pull it in Drive or 2nd gear the little microswitch barely clicks. If it does click, then check out wire from there back to the control panel. You may already know this--just a check for you.
Thanks for the tip! I'll check this out once I get the front wheels back on. I tore down the front assembly to repack my bearings and fix some sticking calipers.
 

jbolty

Member
55
0
6
Location
San Diego, CA
Funny story about that. One of the guys in my jeep group was dating a girl whose dad owned a commercial generator company. I showed him my set up and he said he could get it all sorted out no problem for cheap money. Of course before I could do it my friend and his daughter broke up ugly and he never returned my calls after that. I sold the truck not long after to a guy that picked it up in San Diego and drove it back to Salt Lake City. I would think his head is still vibrating after that trip.

Long story short, the generator guy was going to completely ignore all the government stuff and just use normal controls off the shelf to run the power and the speed control. Apparently the several wires coming out of the generator itself were very common but the panel was non standard; no surprise there.

I miss owning that truck.

Cheers
 

b4thundr

Member
391
8
18
Location
LaFayette, NY
Copy that! You and I did t see eye to eye on this whole gen control system in the beginning. I know have acquired a mass of old control boxes. I'm hanging on to them for some reason. What it is I dont know yet.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,315
113
Location
Schertz TX
Found yet another issue with the stock governor control, that being the switches for interlock that have to transmit a good deal of current. Off the alternator, it has 14.8 volts. At the fuse for the governor, it is down to 13 volts, by the time it gets to the governor unit itself, it is down to 11.2 volts. This is not enough to fully swing the under hood throttle actuator.

The problem is long wires and an array of switches causing all this voltage drop. I discovered this when stick welding with my Miller Dynasty 200. It loads my MEP 002a down to 90%, about 15 amps on three phase. The SECM generator is fine running GTAW but SMAW is a greater load.
 
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