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M1082 trailer manual, anyone got it in PDF?

M813rc

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I'm picking up an M1082 (LMTV trailer) for agazza from Ft Hood next week, and I'm one of those folks who likes to read the manual before I move anything.
Does anyone have the manual in PDF?

TM-9-2330-394-13-P (there may be 2 parts)

I have tried the net, but so far all I can find are available from the "pay an exorbitant fee" sites.

Cheers
 

juanprado

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I have also searched as I wanted to know the difference in between a m1082 and a m1082a1 and could not find anything.
If you are lucky, please post.
Thanks!
 

M813rc

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If/when I find it, I'll post here. Logsa said no, not public release yet :)-x). They are so far behind on releasing non-critical stuff!

Cheers
 

pmramsey

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There is no such thing as an M1082. There is only the M1082A1. There is also an M1095A1 but it is a duel axle trailer. In case you cannot round up a manual, they come with ABS and tire inflation. The tire inflation works with any military truck and pumps the tires to 45-48 lbs. pressure. They cannot be moved without 60-70 lbs. or more pressure to release the brakes unless one manually backs off the spring brakes at each brake. Having sufficient air or backing off the spring brakes is not a guarantee the brakes will release as they often rust into position after sitting for long periods. Several carefully placed chisels between the pads and drums and a steady tug from the towing truck can release them. The air lines are usually of the coiled plastic type and prone to cracking in the sun. Take a set with you; they are cheap. Also, include Teflon tape in your bag and a couple of adjustable winches and a rubber hammer. The lights work on 12 or 24 volts and there is a 12 and 7 pin connector box on the trailer. Hope this helps.
 
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Skidpad

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pmramsey, I just got an M1082A off of GP. It's only about 40 miles from here @ Ft. Campbell. Is there any feasible way to temporarily disengage the brakes (you mentioned manually backing them off)? I have an FLU419 that will easily pull it but I'm not sure about transiting between here and there in an overgrown Tonka toy that isn't technically registered for road use. However, I have a 4x4 Tacoma double cab that is just within the laod rating for this thing if I drive slowly. Any hints, tips, recommendations or other words of wisdom?
 

Skidpad

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toaster, thanks for that. I actually found the specific procedure from the TM. Apparently the procedure only needs the one bolt that is supposed to be stored somewhere at one of the wheel locations...now comes the praying part...

TM 9-2330-394-13&P
SPRING BRAKE CAGING PROCEDURES
0047 00
CAGING SPRING BRAKES - Continued
1. Remove nut (1) and washer (2) from caging bolt (3).
2. Remove caging bolt (3) from caging bolt holder (4).
3. Remove rubber cap (5) from back of brake air chamber (6).
4. Insert T-end of caging bolt (3) in back of brake air chamber (6) and lock in place by turning caging
bolt (3) 1/4 turn.
5. Install washer (2) and nut (1) on caging bolt (3).
6. Tighten nut (1).
7. Perform steps (1) through (6) on remaining brake air chambers
 

pmramsey

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This is the part of the question that is easy to solve. However, the bigger question is How are you going to stop this beast since it weighs more than your towing vehicle, Secondly, this trailer will push your light weight/non-dually truck's rear end around in a turn on dry pavement...even for slow turns please do not touch your brakes in so much as a slow shallow turn. The trailer tongue weight of this trailer is higher than your rated load carrying capacity of your truck. This trailer sits level on a 42" high hitch. How high is your truck's hitch? The tires on the trailer are 395 x 85R20. How high are your truck tires in comparison? AND, all of this with no trailer brakes.


I say all this because I picked up my first M1082 in 2009 from Ft. Bragg and towed it 270 miles home up I-95. It was not fun. I did so with a 2001 Dodge Ram dually with an air brake device I built for such adventures. Check out my old postings dated about 5-6 years ago on this site. There are photos and details. However, even with caged brakes, I could not move the trailer at Ft Bragg. I called my buddy John Winslow and he carried the trailer to his place in Halifax via trailer and we met the next morning at his place. We could not get the brakes to release. After an hour of shooting lube and working with several prying devices, the dang brakes finally let do. The point is caging the brakes is not always the answer.

My second M1082 purchase several years ago (also at Ft Bragg) was better but not by much. I took a 5-ton for the job. I lit up the brakes checked for leaks but no movement. I caged the brakes and still no movement. Lots of lube and plenty of rocking and the brakes finally released. The trip home was uneventful.

My point of all this is to be prepared and leave no possible opportunity for failure to be uncovered. Get it home. Clean it up. You will appreciate all the trouble you endured to get.
 

fuzzytoaster

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My second M1082 purchase several years ago (also at Ft Bragg) was better but not by much. I took a 5-ton for the job. I lit up the brakes checked for leaks but no movement. I caged the brakes and still no movement. Lots of lube and plenty of rocking and the brakes finally released. The trip home was uneventful.

My point of all this is to be prepared and leave no possible opportunity for failure to be uncovered. Get it home. Clean it up. You will appreciate all the trouble you endured to get.
I've noticed this too, a deuce may do the job if the trailer is unloaded but a 5 ton is what should be pulling it. I've also had a lot of ticklishness with the brakes on all 3 of my 1082s so I just caged them all and even then they need a little bump to get moving.
 
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f8617

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...I actually found the specific procedure from the TM. Apparently the procedure only needs the one bolt that is supposed to be stored somewhere at one of the wheel locations...
Hi Skidpad, each air brake chamber has its own caging bolt/nut/washer, mounted on the side of the chamber. If caging each chamber doesn't free-up the brakes, after using your tow vehicle to tug & push on the trailer (fwd/reverse), then use 13/16 or 7/8 or 15/16 wrenches (est. size) to remove the 3 air lines from the top of each air brake and liberally add WD-40 (1-2 oz) into the chamber ports. Replace the hoses and repeated tug with tow vehicle.
 

Shark Bait

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I've got two of these trailers. I've pulled them both long distances with heavy, capable civilian trucks. I would highly recommend for safety of yourself, others and the existence of your Tacoma, not to pull it with your Toyota.

Dave
 

Skidpad

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Guys, I can't thank you enough for the very wise advice. I've already abandoned the idea of the daily driver pulling this thing. I know that my SEE can pull it since it weighs 8 tons and is rated to pull 17K. However, it's not road registered yet so that's not a current option. I'm a little worried to hear you say that even a deuce is a little undersized to pull this thing. By the time this trailer entered service I wasn't in a billet where I needed to drive any longer so I'm a little unfamiliar with them obviously. I think I will either have my buddy that does logging for a living help pull this thing or I'll bite the bullet and just have it delivered (ugh). Maybe this is just an opportunity to try and find an MTV for a good price...

On the maintenance side of things, if anyone comes across a place to obtain the TM for this I'd appreciate it because looking up each page individually would get old quickly.

F8617, your procedure sounds like it makes excellent sense. I'll pack a travel kit of tools and good old WD for the trip. Pictures of the old girl once she's home safe.

SF!
 

Shark Bait

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My LMTV weighs just over 17k lbs, other than being a little under powered here in the mountains, it pulls the M1082 just fine. In trails well and you really don't know it's back there.

Dave
 
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