M1088 camper conversion

ckouba

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That was my way of saying a place to connect "city" water- water already under pressure so I won't need to run a pump if I want to run the water. It amounts to a spigot tapped into the pressure side of the house system with a flow check device to prevent backfill into the tank and out the tank's vent line. I believe the pump has backflow prevention, or I will have a stand alone device.

Chris
 

chucky

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That could be a dicey move unless you have some way to only let in a certain amount of pressure of water with so much different pressures from 1 water district to another and i wouldnt want my whole system being under a 100 psi round the clock for no reason ! Maybe plumb the tank with a trigger valve to close when the tank is full and close keeping the pressure only on your fill hose (which better be a really good hose) . And the pump only runs when your useing water and they last forever the way we would use them .
 

chucky

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Good looking build my friend. Are you planning on utilizing air to move the water? Or what did you mean by pressurized service connection?
We used that idea briefly in the early 90s useing 30 gallon horizontal air compressor tanks and our coach air tanks but soon as the air was down and they take up so much room for no capacity ! Just a shurflo brand 12 v inline water pump won out over every thing we tried for economical and no pressurized bomb water tank .
 

Mullaney

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That was my way of saying a place to connect "city" water- water already under pressure so I won't need to run a pump if I want to run the water. It amounts to a spigot tapped into the pressure side of the house system with a flow check device to prevent backfill into the tank and out the tank's vent line. I believe the pump has backflow prevention, or I will have a stand alone device.

Chris
.
You definitely need some sort of pressure regulator when you connect to "city water" is pretty important. Like @chucky mentioned, a hundred PSI is a lot of water pressure to deal with.

Friend of mine with a basement in his house lost everything stored in that basement (and the neighbor beside him) when CMUD (Charlotte Mecklenburg Utility Department) had a pressure spike in the water main that ruptured copper water lines.
 

ckouba

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You definitely need some sort of pressure regulator when you connect to "city water" is pretty important. Like @chucky mentioned, a hundred PSI is a lot of water pressure to deal with.

Friend of mine with a basement in his house lost everything stored in that basement (and the neighbor beside him) when CMUD (Charlotte Mecklenburg Utility Department) had a pressure spike in the water main that ruptured copper water lines.
Understood. I knew there was something I was missing.....

I may facilitate for it but I doubt I would really ever use it. My other campers had it... and I never used it. But I did think it was a good option to have available.
 

Bill Nutting

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A water pressure regulator is a must in my opinion. I paid something like $65.00 for one from e-trailer.com. They have a veriety of them some are fixed pressure. Mine is adjustable and has a pressure gauge. I figured if it saves my plumbing once, it was cheap insurance. BTW, if you use a Flojet on demand pump, they have the check valve built in. A good source for them is electronics goldmine.com. They have a good selection and fair prices. If you are using a diaphragm pump, I recommend an accumulator tank. You install it on the output side of the pump. It will smooth out the pulsing and will delay the pump starting on short faucet runs. You can find these on Amazon.
 

chucky

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You are correct. There are no clearance issues. I don't have any specific pics but the short story is the subframe rail and the base rail of the habitat gave me ~12" of height to play with, and the floor deck gives me another 3" as well. I think the bottom of the structure is slightly below the tops of the frame rails, but even so, there is more clearance between the bottom of the tank supporting structure and the ball joint for the V-links than there is between the axles and the frame rails. For there to be a clearance issue, the axles will have to seriously relocate some of the other chassis components first!

You can kind of see the structure in these pics:


It just came to me while looking at the end of where the water tank will be in this pic to either this end or the other which looked like you will have some spare room you could put a screw in bung to mount a 12v or 110 block heater in the end of the tank to keep the water from freezing near all your outlets in a hard freeze . I think you would be glad you did it while u still can if you ever found yourself in artic conditions .
 

chucky

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Im useing plastic tanks so i never thought about it for my truck but i ran across a block heater i bought a while back for the 3116 freeze plug hole and thought rite then if i ever build another with metal tanks i would definatly use them . in the bus's stainless tank we all used a little like a 7in x 71n ceramic heater kept our tanks from freezing up in canada winters
 

coachgeo

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Im useing plastic tanks so i never thought about it for my truck but i ran across a block heater i bought a while back for the 3116 freeze plug hole and thought rite then if i ever build another with metal tanks i would definatly use them . in the bus's stainless tank we all used a little like a 7in x 71n ceramic heater kept our tanks from freezing up in canada winters
they sell 12v hot water heater elements.... standard hot water heater configuration. Might work fine for what your thinking if you put it high enough to not be close to plastic edge ... but not so high it could never NOT be submerged. Granted guess one could put it in a small side metal tank and circulate the water thru it too?
 
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