M109A3 Idling bad

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frank8003

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I definitely need to start using more oil in my fuel. Just took two engines worth of rotella to the recycler last weekend....
I DID NOT post the use of USED MOTOR oil. I said NEW motor oil.
Never ever never put crankcase oil from a DIESEL engine into a diesel fuel tank. Even with a centrifuge and 87 ways to make it good you will still be wiping out the hand lapped surfaces of the rotating plunger in the HH. One CAN NOT get the diesel soot byproduct of combustion out of diesel crankcase oil, not in a "normal" set-up anyway. Oh, the HH will last a long time, maybe. Anybody find a new original US government GI type hydraulic Head lately?

All the test benches went away years and years ago.
 

FloridaAKM

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I was given a bunch of 15-w40 unused diesel motor oil & I poured it straight into the tank to the rate of a 50-50 mix with diesel fuel. Thinking it would mix with no problem, caused me much grief as the engine would miss & run horribly unless you stayed under 40mph in 5th gear. Running thru the gears was poor also. This went on for a while missing until I had run 70 miles on a pickup run to GP for a trailer I won @ auction. After stopping & adding 20 gallons of diesel fuel, the engine ran its normal crappy self till the new fuel mixture hit the injector system. When that happened, the engine & truck came alive & ran like it should. You had to be careful & not over rev it thru the lower gears & in 5th gear it ran like a top. The rest of the way home was in the 50-55 mph range listening to the D turbo sing & no missing or sputtering. I will never add oil to the fuel like that again, other than just dosing the fuel to meet the demands of the old engine.
 

rustystud

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I was given a bunch of 15-w40 unused diesel motor oil & I poured it straight into the tank to the rate of a 50-50 mix with diesel fuel. Thinking it would mix with no problem, caused me much grief as the engine would miss & run horribly unless you stayed under 40mph in 5th gear. Running thru the gears was poor also. This went on for a while missing until I had run 70 miles on a pickup run to GP for a trailer I won @ auction. After stopping & adding 20 gallons of diesel fuel, the engine ran its normal crappy self till the new fuel mixture hit the injector system. When that happened, the engine & truck came alive & ran like it should. You had to be careful & not over rev it thru the lower gears & in 5th gear it ran like a top. The rest of the way home was in the 50-55 mph range listening to the D turbo sing & no missing or sputtering. I will never add oil to the fuel like that again, other than just dosing the fuel to meet the demands of the old engine.
In the Marines we could run a 50/50 mix of new oil and gasoline (not diesel) which worked fine. Some of our "exercises" involved "improvising" to keep the unit running.
 

Floridianson

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I too use the Optilube in all the diesels. I also did a super dose of Chevrons Techron for diesels in my GMC 3500.
 

frank8003

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post 15 and post 21
It all worked good for my engine. There is nothing bypassed on this engine.
If one looks at posted photos one sees a full re-circulation line there thru the original unused "arctic heater" boss. No "dead spaces, unmixed fuel, anywhere.

I drilled out the arctic heater boss and due to the Bradley Parker pump I had so much fuel pump output volume moving with that centrifugal pump then why not recirculate what the engine don't need, so I made it variable volume.

Without the engine running and with a charger on the batteries it just ran all the fuel thru that filter in 2.9 hours or much less time. Even When I forgot the charger and it ate the batteries it ran for hours and hours un-attented.
Yes, me idiot had to charge the batteries to get her to start. Batteries are cheap, hydraulic heads are not.

Pump takes from the bottom of the fuel tank and under pressure squirts right back into the top of the tank beyond the forward baffle.
Hey, fuel constant running thru 3 micron filtered fuel goes around and around. The booster pump likes 3 to 7 psig suction pressure but I have 10 to 14 output of Parker, so why not use it. There is NO unmixed fuel in my tank.

Note that when I put that Parker pump in there I adjusted it to take suction from the BOTTOM of the tank.
I just wrote all this as there is still confusion as to what I did. I don't explain good, I know how to do it but don't explain good and can't even spell stuff sometimes.
 

frank8003

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Opti-Lube is good stuff. Up to 38% Coleman fuel.

White Gas (Petroleum Naphtha) White gas, also called petroleum naphtha, is the generic name for Coleman fuel. ... White gas puts out a high level of heat and, as one of the purest gasses, its lack of additives means that fuel line clogs will happen less frequently than when using kerosene.

View attachment opti lube MSDS SDS_XPD.pdf

I have poured gallons of Marvel Mystery Oil, Toluene, Naphtha, new motor oil conglomerations, paint thinner and Stoddard fluid into that fuel tank and that multi-fuel happily burns it and makes GO.

I wanted to use jet fuel from work, had 100's and 100's of gallons of it.
JP4/JP6 but some say it is too "hot" and I don't do that many miles anyway.
I would use gasoline but the new stuff is corn fed and eats rubber.

My stuff, my "additives" which I stopped using, just turned out to be homemade Seafoam.
 
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Floridianson

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Yep you love your trucks then spend the bucks, Optilube my go to. Frank if I bought all those chemicals here in my county they would raid me looking for a Meth lab.
 
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