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M135 Transfer case 2spd conversion

TURBO6X6

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I have an M135 of which I installed an Allison AT545 tranny and BBC. I lost the low range in it with the new tranny. I seen on another web site that it is possible to convert the stock single spd transferr case to a two speed with low range by using the PTO gear somehow. I was wondering if anyone knows how this is done or has one that has been modified? I have access to machining if required as would suspect this is neccesary. I have a spare transferr case which shows the
sliding and pto gears in thexferr2.jpg picxferr1.jpg
 

NDT

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People have swapped in the 2 speed xfer from the WWII GMC. It cannot handle big power.
 

NDT

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The earlier xfer is from a model "CCKW". It is a bolt in. Your bbc will explode it immediately.
 

TURBO6X6

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When I was trying to figure this out, I noticed the sliding gear on the input shaft in this transfer case only meshes about 30% of its teeth in the primary drive gear on the left in the pic. This is during normal drive operation. I figured that to be a big week point as it is among others areas i guess. I have not seen any of those trucks around here, probably getting rare as time goes on..So far the stock xferr case has been good for five years but I think the auto tranny and low stall converter is saving it...
 

TURBO6X6

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Ya, I think they also converted the single speeds to two speeds in the M135's but dont anymore...would be neat to know how they did that...Was the M211 a manual tranny or what was the difference? It would cost me as much to haul it here as to buy it, but good suggestion though..thanks..
 

m1010plowboy

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Lots of private guys have manuals, parts and experience with changing drive-trains so maybe some of them will jump in with their stories.
Here's a link to one TM supplier if you want hard copies of TM's.

http://portrayal.com/manuals.html

and a link to a very kind site, to get them on-line http://www.jatonkam35s.com/

I'm looking at chapter 5 TM 9-1819 for the G749 series which covers Transfer Assembly M207 to M222 with 11, 15, 17, 21 in between. Google "transfer case G749" for lots of reading pleasure.

Your question.... """I am looking for a link to the M211 transfer case service manual, disassemby and assembly. I think there were two designs, I am looking for the 2 spd transfer case for the banjo style suspension..Thanks."""

....is beyond my comprehension so someone familiar with the mechanics will chime in. What I know is CCKW and G749 series are wars apart.

The G749 transfer case is in Chapter 5 TM 9-1819, Page 84.
You need info on the CCKW transfer info as well to see if you can get low range into a G749, now that you've changed the drive train, got it.

I'm along for the ride so lets get all the books in one place and see what can be done. There are threads on adding the 2 speed transfer out of the CCKW to get a larger gear selection on the G749 so tonight once the wine sets in and I'm done driving the M135 around, lets get all the data up here you need.

Google CCKW TM's and we'll see if some of the Veterans of these trucks can offer some advice.
 

m1010plowboy

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Lots of info online for searches with "CCKW TM's" "CCKW transfer case" add the word "conversion" and we can research for a decade.

P Farber, has one of the most informative CCKW, TM posts here, http://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=662
Available on steel soldiers by searching "CCKW TMs Steel Soldiers" http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?79535-TM-s-for-the-CCKW

...and you got me curious about (an original) 2-speed transfer behind the 301MG or the 303M Hydra-Matic Transmissions , TM 9-8025 - 2.....I have not found anything about this set-up yet but someone here will know.

I run a brand new, crate 366 industrial in front of an allison in an 86 Chev 3 Ton so all the pictures and info about your swap would be appreciated.

Any info for new drive-trains in the G749 is always welcome.
 

TURBO6X6

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Thanks for all the links m1010, I will take a look and see if I can find the parts diagram for the 2 spd transfer case so I can compare to the single speed that I have...Here are some pics of my 6x6 . The engine compartment is very busy...but thats to be expected given the BBC, ps, pb master, two turbos, propane euipment and the hydraulic pump and ECM wiring. The only thing I dont care for is the pollution devices that came with the Mark V BBC 366. it adds lots of wiring and instrumentation that is not neccessary for ths truck..next time, will use gen IV or Gen VI bbc or deisel.
View attachment 413765View attachment 413763View attachment 413762View attachment 413764
 

m1010plowboy

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You'll figure out the picture thing soon enough. Take a look through the rest of the Early Deuce forum for more info.

Another way to search through forums is to pull them up on google hunt using these terms "early deuce steel soldiers archive". The first link is this http://www.steelsoldiers.com/archive/index.php/f-18.html and it lists all 994 thread titles. Once you read through them you can see how having 'targeted' titles can help future readers find info. This can be found in this format in any forum.

Gunfreak has some good information on his thread http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?73907-My-GMC-a-little-update

Tell us what the truck is like with the way you have things. Have you got enough low gear to get it to roll nice off the line on pavement? Could a guy have a nice driver if the truck doesn't go off-road much. After 5 years you must have plenty of adventures in it.

Trying to come up with a simple re-power that anyone can do without a lifetime of mods would certainly do these old trucks a big favor.

What's important is .....the best honey comes from Farmington!
 

TURBO6X6

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"Your question.... """I am looking for a link to the M211 transfer case service manual, disassemby and assembly. I think there were two designs, I am looking for the 2 spd transfer case for the banjo style suspension..Thanks."""

....is beyond my comprehension so someone familiar with the mechanics will chime in. What I know is CCKW and G749 series are wars apart"


I think I am slowly figuring this out from your post m1010. I guess what I am looking for is the CCkW-353 2 spd transfer case disassembly/assembly manual/diagram. I have the M135/211 TM for the transferr case. I thought the M211 was the old CCKW. my bad... I have searched all over but can only find the TM-9-801 manual which only discusses the linkage and removal/install for the xferr case, but not disassembly. I think the manual for the disassembly is TM-9-1801? Not sure though, can't find it.. Thanks...
 

NDT

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That is a Timken xfer from the Timken (split) axle GMC CCKW. It will not work in a GM banjo axle truck as the front output is not reversed.
 

TURBO6X6

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ND, I was wondering about the split axle thing, although I know less about that one than the banjo stye... it just didnt look close to mine.. close but no cigar I suppose Ill keep looking for the banjo.... Still looking for some diagrams of the G508 Banjo 2 spd internals if anyone has them, would be greatly appreciated....Thanks for the link m1010, all new info is good stuff...
 

rosco

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Re: 2 Speeders from the 211/135 T-case. Its been a long time now, but I did all that, you have been discussing here. I used/installed a WW2 T-case, and blew it in a relatively difficult pull.

Trying to remember... there are several problems that I could not/or didn't solve. One is, that after you convert it to two speeds, the way I did it, is that you don't have a neutral, but just the hi/lo, so its a problem to use a winch. Another issue is the front wheel drive. It is full time w/spragues. The original tranny automatically shifted that for you, when you went from forward to reverse. I put a shifter lever in there, using another lever that came out of it. You just have to manually do the shifting of the 2nd lever. The front axle drive, is a slightly different ratio then the rears, so the spragues let it slip a little, till the rears go faster, then the front starts pulling.

To conver the T-case to two speeds, I think it is the big gear showing under the top shaft in your picture, that you have to make solid. As is, it is on a splined shaft. Then there is a large bearing insert around th splined hub, and an outer ring gear. I took that gear out, removed the bearing and turned a solid blank of metal, bored appropriately to be heat shrunk onto the splined hub, with an outter radius allowing the outside ring gear to be heated and shrunk onto it. Anyway, just look in there and find the big gear, with the bearing in the middle, and you have the right one.

If you take that T-caes to a heavy truck shop, those gear heads will figure it out, and maybe get you a neutral too. If you don't have a winch, its not much of a problem. I had one, but you just have to be in some gear too, but that leaves something else to work on later!

Later The 211 is a neat truck
 

TURBO6X6

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Thanks rosco, this is exactly what i was looking for.. i"ll attach some pics of the transfer case I have taken apart. When I installed the allison 545, I also installed a hydraulic pump ran from the engine and a high torque hydraulic motor to run the winch. I also installed a small air compressor to run the wipers and operate an air cylinder attached to the sprag gear fork shaft to operate for forward and reverse.
According to the manual for the M135, the sliding gear is always meshed with the large pto gear that you have mentioned. When in drive, the sliding gear side coggs into the input shaft drive gear which drives all the shafts, at the same time free wheel the pto gear. When the sliding gear shifts to neutral, it is uncogged with the input drive gear, thus creating the neutral.
I was on the right track by figuring the pto drive gear needs to be attached solid to the intermediate shaft to create the low range when the sliding gear is in the neutral position. What I am not sure of is when the sliding gear is moved to drive the input shaft drive gear, the sliding gear is still meshed with the pto drive or low range gear. I was thinking that if the pto or low range gear was moved to the right about 1 inch and then attached to the intermediate shaft, the sliding gear could then be shifted to low or high range without both drive gears being cogged and meshed at the same time? Do you recall if you did anything else to not allow both ranges to be coupled at the same time with the sliding gear?
 

rosco

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I don't believe that I did anything else, inside the box. The rest is just linkage hook up with the shift levers under the seat. I had collected some related levers. clevises, etc, so that part went pretty good. Then you do have to address the front wheel drive, and the sprages, for the forword and reverse. The front end drive is geared slightly slower the the rear and the spragues let it slip. When the rears start slipping (going faster then the front), the front essentially catches up and starts pulling too. Those are the two shifters, down there by the front wheel drive, in one of your first pictures. I just made a shift lever that I also had to shift, when shifting to reverse. It would be neat to figure a way to put that front drive in neutral, till you needed it. The it wouldn't be such a pain.

I ran the truck many years, after the conversion. She was my heavy hauler. By then, I had converted it to a 5th wheel & pulled a small low boy. The automatics weren't out much back then in the early '70's. Glad that you have the winch part worked out too.
 
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