Stone1098
New member
- 8
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Cranston Ri
I am going to look at a 51 m135 today any advice on what to look for?
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
M135
- Thread starter Stone1098
- Start date
Stan Leschert
New member
- 1,662
- 90
- 0
- Location
- North Vancouver, BC, Canada
A smoked transmission is the biggest thing. Does it run? Any fluid leaks? ... especially on the wheels?
You have 12 brake pistons, and they will tell you if they aren't happy.
Rust can be dealt with, same for paint.
Rotted out gas tanks are spendy to replace.
Post some pics, along with your stem to stern evaluation.
We can give a much more informed opinion, based on more info.
Words from Maccus, NattieLeather, or Henderson D or J
Should be treated as the gospel truth.
The rest of us are still learning.
Gunfreak, M1010Plowboy, SuperDave, Wpns421, OldFart and PapaBear are pretty knowlegdable,
so, ignore them at your peril.
If you need the TMs, head over to http://www.militarytrucks.ca/m135.htm.
Other interesting reading there too!
You have 12 brake pistons, and they will tell you if they aren't happy.
Rust can be dealt with, same for paint.
Rotted out gas tanks are spendy to replace.
Post some pics, along with your stem to stern evaluation.
We can give a much more informed opinion, based on more info.
Words from Maccus, NattieLeather, or Henderson D or J
Should be treated as the gospel truth.
The rest of us are still learning.
Gunfreak, M1010Plowboy, SuperDave, Wpns421, OldFart and PapaBear are pretty knowlegdable,
so, ignore them at your peril.
If you need the TMs, head over to http://www.militarytrucks.ca/m135.htm.
Other interesting reading there too!
Last edited:
- 1,171
- 29
- 48
- Location
- Galesville, WI
I agree with Stan. Transmissions are big and heavy and hard to find when you want one. If you find one, snarf it up! The brakes are where I'm choking right now. I'd check out Gunfreaks threads, he has way more patients and attention to detail that I have.
I'll share my personal experience. Last year I purchased my first truck, a M211 with a great trans, bad paint, and no brakes for $1200. Cost me $500 to get it hauled home because it had bad brakes, broken glass, no lights.... I will never post how much I have into it, because it may get back to the other member of my household. I'm still not driving it and It still has no brakes. I purchased a new master, then figured out it needed some new lines. then figured it needs a powerpack rebuild, and now I'm leaking at the wheels. So, there is an AWESOME rebuild thread done back a few months ago that I will be reviewing again. And I will be ordering 12 new wheel cyls because it is a lot of work to take the wheels/hubs/drums off more that once. My bleeders are froze. I drive it from the shop to pole shed using the parking brake. Don't think I'm complaining about my truck, I'm just sharing.
Then a couple months ago, Maccus called me from his home 800 miles away with some disturbing news. He found a M220 emergency management mobile command center (for more money) that a county retired. I sent out some money and he recovered it on my behalf. Bottom line is this; I have a running, driving, licenseable truck (that Maccus can drive all over the state
) with no additional work or outlay of cash.
My point is more money upfront may be worth it. Evaluate your time and money you can afford. Usually peope don't have both. I feel bad when I see someone dump hundreds of hours into a wonderful project only to find they cannot afford to finish in the end or they burn out. Make a plan of where you want to end up, and a budget, then get started! (If I could find that 2 cents thing it would be here!)
Pictures PLEASE!
Thanks for the kind words Stan.
I'll share my personal experience. Last year I purchased my first truck, a M211 with a great trans, bad paint, and no brakes for $1200. Cost me $500 to get it hauled home because it had bad brakes, broken glass, no lights.... I will never post how much I have into it, because it may get back to the other member of my household. I'm still not driving it and It still has no brakes. I purchased a new master, then figured out it needed some new lines. then figured it needs a powerpack rebuild, and now I'm leaking at the wheels. So, there is an AWESOME rebuild thread done back a few months ago that I will be reviewing again. And I will be ordering 12 new wheel cyls because it is a lot of work to take the wheels/hubs/drums off more that once. My bleeders are froze. I drive it from the shop to pole shed using the parking brake. Don't think I'm complaining about my truck, I'm just sharing.
Then a couple months ago, Maccus called me from his home 800 miles away with some disturbing news. He found a M220 emergency management mobile command center (for more money) that a county retired. I sent out some money and he recovered it on my behalf. Bottom line is this; I have a running, driving, licenseable truck (that Maccus can drive all over the state
) with no additional work or outlay of cash.My point is more money upfront may be worth it. Evaluate your time and money you can afford. Usually peope don't have both. I feel bad when I see someone dump hundreds of hours into a wonderful project only to find they cannot afford to finish in the end or they burn out. Make a plan of where you want to end up, and a budget, then get started! (If I could find that 2 cents thing it would be here!)
Pictures PLEASE!
Thanks for the kind words Stan.
Last edited:
- 3,816
- 2,409
- 83
- Location
- Edmonton, Canada
1951 m135
Wow Stan, to be included with that group I'm going to need to study. Thanks.
Stone....I'm on the bottom edge of the learning curve with the 135 but have gone through the "catastrophic" potential failure points of the truck and have an idea what you might be up against.
If you plan to drive on "public roads" you will need to focus on brakes and
steering. I've replaced or repaired the entire brake system with professional help.
Pro help is expensive so total "stopping" investment for me...so far...over $2000.00.
Steering....drag link, tie-rod, spring mounts, steering box, steering wheel were all borrowed off of donor trucks. $1000.00
Seals, bearings, U-joints $2000.
All fluids.... $750.00.
If you're doing the work yourself it will cost much less but 'safety' still needs to be checked off the 'to do' list.
The truck is a 51' so check data plates and/ or passenger frame behind front
wheel for the ID number. You may have an early model or even one of the first
ever built. That can be important.
I wouldn't start an engine until air breather (mice), fuel (rust) and oil have been removed and replaced which is a catch 22. You want to see if it runs and moves but just firing it can pull crap into the carb and pooch fuel.
The kids are right:
1) Trani
2) Motor turns (could be the 270???)
3) Brakes
4) Steering
5) Tires
6) Loose/ broken suspension
Buy low and plan to replace everything......It's 61 years old.
Wow Stan, to be included with that group I'm going to need to study. Thanks.
Stone....I'm on the bottom edge of the learning curve with the 135 but have gone through the "catastrophic" potential failure points of the truck and have an idea what you might be up against.
If you plan to drive on "public roads" you will need to focus on brakes and
steering. I've replaced or repaired the entire brake system with professional help.
Pro help is expensive so total "stopping" investment for me...so far...over $2000.00.
Steering....drag link, tie-rod, spring mounts, steering box, steering wheel were all borrowed off of donor trucks. $1000.00
Seals, bearings, U-joints $2000.
All fluids.... $750.00.
If you're doing the work yourself it will cost much less but 'safety' still needs to be checked off the 'to do' list.
The truck is a 51' so check data plates and/ or passenger frame behind front
wheel for the ID number. You may have an early model or even one of the first
ever built. That can be important.
I wouldn't start an engine until air breather (mice), fuel (rust) and oil have been removed and replaced which is a catch 22. You want to see if it runs and moves but just firing it can pull crap into the carb and pooch fuel.
The kids are right:
1) Trani
2) Motor turns (could be the 270???)
3) Brakes
4) Steering
5) Tires
6) Loose/ broken suspension
Buy low and plan to replace everything......It's 61 years old.
Mastertech
Member
- 55
- 0
- 6
- Location
- Puyallup WA.
What They said. I have A M211 That I have done everything they all have done, doing 98% oh the work Myself It toke two years with time in between to save money and use the space for other projects to get it 95% finished SAFE and legal to drive and, Not only do I not know how much I money have spent I dont want to know. But I will tell you this I had more fun doing it and wouldnt trade it for anything.
Stan Leschert
New member
- 1,662
- 90
- 0
- Location
- North Vancouver, BC, Canada
So, don't tease us, WHAT HAPPENED?
If that one didn't pass inspection, I'm sure that you can find another one worth saving.
Come on, Enquiring minds want to know!
You started this thread .....
If that one didn't pass inspection, I'm sure that you can find another one worth saving.
Come on, Enquiring minds want to know!
You started this thread .....
Stone1098
New member
- 8
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Cranston Ri
Went to look at the truck today it is in pretty decent shape it hasn't run in about four years it has already been Bobbef I am going back this week and try to get it running will keep you posted sorry for the delay
- 5,580
- 344
- 83
- Location
- DESOTO, KANSAS
Now the only thing left to do is put up PICTURES! There has not been any detailed pictures of a Bob'D M135 on this site.
