• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M35 prepping for paint

289
2
18
Location
Hampton, Virginia
I'm getting my deuce ready for painting. I'm using an angle grinder with either a knotted wire wheel to take off any rust, and a angled 36 grit sanding pad to remove excess paint down to either bare metal or primer. Since I'm not painting it immediately (I can only get a few hours here and there to work on the truck) I spray the areas as I do them with a rust-preventative primer (with zinc). I also plan on spraying on a coat of primer before going on with the final color. I have a local paint supplier (PPG) I plan on using, hoping they can match the original green that is still on the axles/differentials. The areas I'm doing feel pretty smooth when I finish, but I'm hoping the primer will even out any differences in surface height before painting. My question is should I go over the truck with a finer grit sandpaper (probably in a hand, random orbital sander) before spraying the truck, or just go ahead and primer/paint?

Thanks

Dave

PS Pic is of my truck with the front bumper and right engine panel primed/painted to check out color/finish.
 

Attachments

Wolf.Dose

Active member
1,062
9
38
Location
Boehl-Iggelheim, Germany
Handle all the surfaces you grinded down to the bare metal with a good rost prohipeting primer, even painted by hand.
Before you paint the truck with olive drab (In Germany RAL 6022) grind over all surfaces and prime the truck. The dried out primer also sould be regrinded by hand and than give the truck the first coating with olive drab. The second coating not neccessarily need a complete regrinding (best would be with wet paper with a lot of water) and than put a second coating on the truck for best surface.
This advice applies for a non acrylic paint, for acrylic paint you should ask the paint shop for advice. Hope this helps.
Wolf
 

m16ty

Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
9,576
210
63
Location
Dickson,TN
It all depends on how good of job you want. If there are any rough places or height differences it will still be there after you paint. The plus side is that with a flat paint you won't be able to notice it unless it's really bad. If you go with a semi-gloss imperfections will show up more.
 

peecook

New member
342
1
0
Location
Richmond VA
hey Dave, i used PPG up here in Richmond. i wasnt really happy with the military olive drab color after i sprayed it. of course it took 6 gallons to figure it out. just my 2cents
 

101coolcars

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
201
1
18
Location
San Luis, colorado
I would "da" dual action sand the feathedged areas with 80 grit, then prime, then resand the primed areas with 180 wet paper. primer is needed as it aids in the adhesion of the paint.
1. sand,grind the loose paint, 2. etch prime, 3.spot prime with urethane primer,4.sand with 180, 5. paint with top coating, I recommend sherman williams CARC, or Gilliespie, both have very high hiding qualities

primer is only needed on bare metal areas over the top of your etch primer.

clean surfaces between steps with a wax and grease remover.

You could easiely do a couple of panels at a time, just mask off the areas already done when you move to the next panel.

grinding the whole truck at once can be a disaster, smaller projects will keep you motivated and accelerate your leaning curve

Hope that helps some:beer:
 

Attachments

289
2
18
Location
Hampton, Virginia
Last chance for any tips. Taking the truck to a friends property to paint it. I plan on pressure washing the entire truck to remove any loose paint left on the undercarriage. I've sanded/primed most of the outer surfaces. I'm going to use the Gillespie black phosphate primer and 24087 (2 to 3 coats of 24087). Move the truck inside, remove wheels/tires, mask off glass/mirrors, spray entire truck with primer for even base color, then hit it with the 24087. Painting the wheels w/24087. I'll take pics to post as job progresses. thanks for all the advice.
 

Katahdin

Active member
1,303
23
38
Location
Scarborough, ME
Same boat here, but I'm going to hit the bare metal with filler first, then primer. That seems to be what all the cool kids are doing on the Spike TV powerblock shows.
 

thehaas

New member
56
0
0
Location
matamoras pa
i ground paint off with 36 grit then went over with 80 grit orbital sander then blow off tape up put 3 coats dupont epoxy primer on let dry sanded 180 light then primed again with high build urethane primer sand with 400 wet with detergent wash tape paint synthetic enamal is what repoduction companies sell ok has semi shine if you want real shiny then single stage urethane.you could also put self edging primer on bare metal then with out sanding go over with high build dupont 615 self edge high build is uro prime or equal
 

flyxpl

New member
717
9
0
Location
Chatham IL
The coarsest papper you would want to paint over is 320 grit . The coarsest you should prime over is 180 , 80 grit if bare metal and orbital sander used , not grinder . If you do not follow these guidlines it may look good at first , but the primer will shrink and scratches will show up in a short time . I have been painting cars for 20 years . a few planes , Best T 34 Oshkosh 93 .
 
Top