• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

M35A1 starting issues, with vid for diagnosis

scooter01922

Well-known member
1,721
42
48
Location
Newbury, MA
Thanks for posting some pics of me and the parts hulk BC. To anyone wondering, yes we had already taken the lugnuts off the pass side, its not all screwed up. Been sitting in that spot since time began it looks like at least. Had to use the chainsaw to remove several fallen trees and the front tires are sunk into the ground deeper than the rims. On the upside the axle itself was above ground level and should clean up just fine.
 

scooter01922

Well-known member
1,721
42
48
Location
Newbury, MA
Ok, its been a while. Finally put in some real time on the A1 this last week. Pulled an injector or 2 and neither fired when cranking. So i figured what the hell and tossed in a spare set of injectors i had ( NOS). Replaced the older than dirt feul return lines as well for easy flow monitoring. As its got half a tank of nice red offroad diesel i figured it would be easy to see. Managed to get the flow to come up quite a bit overall on the fuel system. A round of draining fuel filters again and a a big dose of diesel kleen seems to have everything flowing pretty well. That is except for the IP :-( yeah....still no flow to actually trigger the injectors. Pumps well well enough to bleed the lines and well enough to squirt fairly well with the lines just loosened a bit. But i'm still geting no start and absolutely no return flow from the injectors themselves. Guess westfolk hit the nail on the head here, the keeper on the plunger must have busted or something. Was really trying to keep my nice new spare injector pump in one piece :-x. So If anyone happens to have a known good hydraulic head lying around they would sell me let me know. Don't want to even think about pulling that one off till i have a new one to go on there.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,314
113
Location
Schertz TX
My Duece is having the same problem, it will run on a quick shot of ether for about 10 secs and die its got compression and timing plus the engine was rebuilt in 1989. The pump is getting fuel from the tank, and the lines have been bled. BTW i'm not using a lot of ether don't want scoring...

The truck did sit for two months without being started and ran perfect before then. The diesel is old of course, its slightly green and stinks to hell and back.

Aside from the diesel being bad., should i get the pump rebuilt or how should i go about it, where can i order fuel components?

I printed out the Trouble Shooting Manual for the LDS-465-1 lucky me my duece is a 1968, same year on the manual.


Thanks guys,
Pull the timing cover on the IP (2 screws, this is the cover of the engine stop) and check for free movement of the control rod. If not, this control assembly needs to be pulled and cleaned. Cut safety wire, remove 2 screws and then soak in a good solvent. If still stuck, it needs to be taken apart, careful as the arm to shaft alignment is critical.

Pro Shot Copper Solvent IV, available at gun shops, works VERY WELL to free up these stuck assemblies. I made a post about this...:-D


http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/41122-injection-pump-repair.html
 
Last edited:

scooter01922

Well-known member
1,721
42
48
Location
Newbury, MA
Thank you for the suggestion. The shutoff rod was indeed a bit stuck when i first began work on it. After working it back and forth a few doz times all seems well there. Could't hurt to pull it out though i supose. Although wouldn't i be getting no fuel at all to the injectors if it was truely the issue. Currently its sufficient to bleed the lines but not enough press to trigger the injectors.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,314
113
Location
Schertz TX
Thank you for the suggestion. The shutoff rod was indeed a bit stuck when i first began work on it. After working it back and forth a few doz times all seems well there. Could't hurt to pull it out though i supose. Although wouldn't i be getting no fuel at all to the injectors if it was truely the issue. Currently its sufficient to bleed the lines but not enough press to trigger the injectors.

Yes, if the control rod/assembly does not move freely (remove the timing cover to check, two standard slot screws), there will be problems!!! When the engine is spinning over at 150 RPM (starting), the governor sets the control collar to full fuel, this is why some engines race a bit at start as excess fuel is burning. But if the control rod only moves the lever in about a 15 degree arc, insufficient fuel pressure will result. Diesel is slightly compressible and the injector lines are slightly elastic to the 2500 PSI pop pressure. Without full fuel, the injectors will not pop.

The lever should move in about a 160 degree arc with light finger pressure. If not, remove the clevis clip (careful as to not lose it, a loop of wire helps) and remove the control rod from the lever. Work the lever back and forth, it should be like butter on a warm plate smooth, clicking at the stops.
 

clinto

Moderator, wonderful human being & practicing Deuc
Staff member
Administrator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
12,596
1,123
113
Location
Athens, Ga.
Scooter, what was the eventual outcome of this issue?
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks