• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

M35A2 rear U-Bolt removal

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,368
19,071
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Looking for ideas on the best way to get these old rusted u-bolts removed between the back two axles on a m35a2 pictures attached. Thanks Elliott
.
Well...

A red wrench is more than likely what you need.
Acetylene powered torch.

You can heat the nut on the bottom and throw an impact socket on it (wearing welding gloves) and go to town. Looking at the U-Bolt, it appears that you need to replace them especially in picture #3. Guessing you already know that though...

You will need to support the truck under the trunnion and the axles need their own support as well. Picture from another guy doing the same is below. While you have the springs off, you should also inspect and repack the bearings.


Here is a step by step repair that might help you.


After the first few posts, this thread fell off the wagon into a pissing contest about greasing the trunnion. Page 5, Post #100 has more useful information. Part numbers and a few more pictures in the Link below to Page 5 & 6 :

 
Last edited:

Valley Rock

Big wheeler cat peeler
Steel Soldiers Supporter
326
525
93
Location
Rogue Valley OR
Those U-bolts are junk, so an acetylene torch or a cut off wheel is your friend .
Have some new ones made or pay thru the nose for some NOS ones .

IF you are trying to save the nuts (because NOS U-bolts don't come with them) then I reccomend PB Blaster, heat and a good impact, but new ones would be mo betta and considerably less labor intensive .
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10,169
5,858
113
Location
Camp Wood/LC, TX
This repair is no fun. After burning off the u bolts from above, I was unable to drive them down and out due to them being completely rusted frozen into the spring seat casting. I ended up buying an entire rear spring assy from someone that was bobbing an A3. Even with those serviceable parts, it was no fun replacing the spring/seat assy onto my existing trunnion. Good luck. Memphis has the ubolts.
 

Elliott Green

New member
2
3
3
Location
Versailles KY
Those U-bolts are junk, so an acetylene torch or a cut off wheel is your friend .
Have some new ones made or pay thru the nose for some NOS ones .

IF you are trying to save the nuts (because NOS U-bolts don't come with them) then I reccomend PB Blaster, heat and a good impact, but new ones would be mo betta and considerably less labor intensive .
do you know if the rear u bolts have to have the bend In them? I am having to cut the top halo off then heat anddrive them out through the bottom.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks