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M37 Restoration Project - Revived

ab705

Active member
54
163
33
Location
Maine
I'm still working on getting my electroplating setup put together and waiting for a couple of supply items. In the meantime, I'll keep working on various parts of the M37.

My M37 was never equipped with backup lights, and I don't think I'd ever have occasion to use the small "blackout marker light" at the right rear of the vehicle, so I decided to keep the marker light, but convert it to a backup light. Re-purposing the old blackout marker light would maintain the original outward appearance of the vehicle and make it easier and safer to back up at night. I already had an old beat-up marker light, but I found a marker light in excellent condition on eBay for a decent price.

First, I removed the blackout marker lens parts from the light:

parts-removed-from-nos-blackout-light-door-smaller-image.jpg

Then I cut out a piece of a backup light lens from another vehicle and installed it in the blackout marker light 'door' in place of the above pieces.

inside-of-blackout-light-door-with-new-clear-lens-smaller-image.jpg

front-of-blackout-light-door-with-new-clear-lens-smaller-image.jpg

I cleaned and painted the body of the light Marine Corps green outside and white inside to reflect more light.
I installed a bright white 24V LED lamp, sized so that the end of the lamp is at the approximate center of the new lens.

white-inside-nos-light-with-led-bulb-smaller-image.jpg

Here's the finished backup light, ready to install (although that may not happen for a while yet). Note: There is a piece of 1/16" flat, clear polycarbonate in front of the lens, but it isn't apparent in the photo below. I installed the flat piece to make it easier to seal the lens and to keep the front of the lens clean.

blackout-marker-light-with-clear-lens-smaller-image.jpg

Since the M37 never had a backup light, I'll have to make a minor wiring modification. I suppose I could probably design some kind of gearshift-related linkage for a backup light switch, but I might just end up installing a manually operated switch on the dashboard, in which case the switch would have a pilot light to remind me to turn off the backup light after backing up.
 

M813rc

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Near Austin, Texas
That is spiffy!

Now I know what I am going to put on the empty bracket for the blackout light on the M715 I'm rebuilding. “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery”. ;)

I was just wondering if I should leave the bracket empty, which doesn't look aesthetically pleasing, or put something there, and if so, what. The truck has the larger style rear lights with all the b/o lights built in, so a redundant b/o light wasn't the best answer.

Cheers
 

ab705

Active member
54
163
33
Location
Maine
I finally got my electroplating setup working. I'm planning to zinc plate many of the original M37 fasteners, as well as a number of other parts.

Here's a typical batch of rusted bolts. My preferred method of de-rusting fasteners is glass bead blasting, as it's gentler than many other blasting abrasives, but still effective, and it leaves a finish that I like. If glass bead blasting cleans up the fastener nicely and there isn't any deep rust or other damage, I'll generally re-use the fastener, but if it's a torque-to-yield fastener, or if the technical manual says to replace it, I will always replace it with a new fastener of the correct type.

typical-rusted-fasteners-smaller-image.jpg

For plating, I used the "Copy Cad and Zinc Plating" chemicals and "Yellow Chromate Solution" from Caswell Plating and followed the process and safety instructions in the Caswell Plating Manual.

From other reading/research, I also decided to bake the parts immediately after plating to help prevent hydrogen embrittlement, which I have heard is especially important for harder steel parts.

Here are a few photos.

Some headlight mounting bolts right after glass bead blasting.

headlight-mounting-bolts-after-bead-blasting-smaller-image.jpg

The same bolts in the plating solution:

headlight-mounting-bolts-in-plating-bath-smaller-image.jpg

Baking the bolts right after plating:

oven-for-baking-parts-after-plating-smaller-image.jpg

The same bolts hanging up to dry after the chromate conversion coating step:

headlight-mounting-bolts-after-plating-baking-chromating-smaller-image.jpg

Note: I could have added a 'brightener' from Caswell to the plating solution if I wanted a shinier surface, but I prefer this surface treatment, since my theory is that paint will adhere better to this semi-matte surface than a shiny surface, and since it's a military vehicle restoration, most of the fasteners and other parts will end up being painted.

Here are some headlight retaining rings that needed some attention:

headlight-retaining-rings-rusty-smallerj-image.jpg

One of the headlight retaining rings after some straightening and bead blasting:

headlight-retaining-ring-after-bead-blasting-smaller-image.jpg

A couple of the headlight retaining rings after zinc plating and a chromate conversion treatment:

headlight-retaining-ring-after-plating-and-chromating-smaller-image.jpg

WARNING: Be sure to follow all appropriate safety instructions when working with plating chemicals and processes.
 
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