• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

M37 square lock washer / body washer questions

jedawson1

Member
420
22
18
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
I could use some direction from you seasoned guys:

What are you or have you used as an alternative to the square lock washers for you body bolts? I have found lots of toothed lock washers and even some similar square lock washers but they look mighty aggressive and I am concerned they will significantly scratch the new paint on all my body parts?

2nd need, can anyone with an M37 post a picture or 2 of the rear tie down shackle? I need to see how the tie down shackle bracket is oriented. I am re assembling the rear of my truck and because of the bumperette I can't find a good angle in my pictures.

Jason
IMG_20170629_064429560.jpg
 

Storm 51

Just a Grunt
Steel Soldiers Supporter
888
9
0
Location
Seattle, WA
I'll try to get you some photos this weekend. However, I'm in the same dilemma you are; my bumperettes are in the way.

I'll see what I can do.
 

NAM VET

Member
40
2
8
Location
Rock Hill, SC
Bought an assortment of new "old" square washers from Snake River for the bolts that will show on my M37's restoration. The toothed ones are for making sure those fasteners that need a good electrical ground.

NAM VET
 

Storm 51

Just a Grunt
Steel Soldiers Supporter
888
9
0
Location
Seattle, WA
Rear Shackle Photos

Here are the photos I promised. They are of both sides, mostly from on the ground looking up.

I hope they help.

Good Luck!
 

Attachments

jedawson1

Member
420
22
18
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
Thank You all for your input.

Storm51, Thanks for the pictures, just what I needed. Looks like snake river is the only place for correct washers, I'm contemplating just using modern bolt,lock washer, and washer on the body panels. I am not interested in showing the truck as 100% period correct, I just want to take my son's to get ice cream on Sunday's.
 

Storm 51

Just a Grunt
Steel Soldiers Supporter
888
9
0
Location
Seattle, WA
I'm glad to hear that you found the photos helpful.

Back in the real world, when these trucks were being used by the military, (I was in the Army back then) they would use whatever was available. Maybe they used square washers, but they also used a lot of split lock washers too.

I don't think it will be anything to worry about.

The "rivet counters" will always find something criticize.
 

jedawson1

Member
420
22
18
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
Trying to figure this out, The rear cross member bolts I bought from Mid West Military seem to be too long. See attached picture, I've circled area's in yellow. The bolt is hitting the tie down shackle and is not able to seat down against the top of the rear cross member. rear crossmember.jpg
 

Storm 51

Just a Grunt
Steel Soldiers Supporter
888
9
0
Location
Seattle, WA
The rear cross member should engage the rear lip on the rear edge of the floor panels. The rear cross member bolts to the L shaped fittings on the aft end of each of cargo bed side panels.

Your rear cross member is mounted too low, is the short answer.
 

jedawson1

Member
420
22
18
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
That is a perfect shot, John at Midwest is measuring, he thinks he shipped me the wrong length bolt. It's 7" and I think it should be about 5 or 5 1/2. Based on the size of the rear crossmember and the fact that it sits on the frame without a standoff.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 

jedawson1

Member
420
22
18
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
I remember a weather strip between the outside removable wheel wells and the bed side panels. Did you guys put one back in when you rebuilt your beds? I'm curious if it would hold water and cause problems or if rubbing from vibration would cause more harm.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 

NAM VET

Member
40
2
8
Location
Rock Hill, SC
yes there is a thin "weatherstrip" that goes between the removable rear fender and the bed's wheel well. Available from the vendors. If you de-rust and properly prime and paint the two metal parts, I am sure you will be good for many years.

NAM VET
 

M-37Bruce

Active member
705
59
28
Location
Midlothian, VA
It's called fender bead, I think, mine originally had a solid plastic bead and flexible flange, the replacement I got from John at Mid-West Mil was vinyl wrapped solid foam.
 

jedawson1

Member
420
22
18
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
I remember the solid rubber with bead, it was like the M923 hard top welting strips. I have some vinyl wrapped foam but it is about 1/4 thick and would compress when installed.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks