M880 alternative to Carter BBD carb??

fslay0435

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Hello all,

I've been working on an M880, and just got the carter bbd back from being rebuilt. Although the truck now idles and runs fine, I have noticed fuel seeping from around the throttle shaft area, so i'm thinking its got wear there.

Also, the dust cover on top of the carb that covers the floats only has one screw from the factory, so fuel will come out of there if I remove the air cleaner assembly. I wonder if the floats are set too high?

I've already got $100 in the Carter, but I've read where the Motorcraft 2100 is a fairly easy swap to replace the bbd. I don't wanna put any more money in the carter. Anybody tried the motorcraft swap? Which year, make, model carb would I need and what all is involved?

Basilcally looking for a good stock runner, no performance stuff. thanks in advance.
 

fslay0435

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Thanks for the response. I have been asking around here and that's what everybody else suggested too. I will adjust the floats and see if that fixes the problem. I'm excited about getting the truck fixed up.
 

fslay0435

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Just an update on the carburetor. Even after a rebuild of the Carter BBD, it still leaks gas in several places. Apparently, it has underlying issues that make it not worth investing more money.

When I called the local NAPA, a replacement stock carb is around $340. For that kind of money, I would really like to go ahead and swap over to a small 4-barrel carb, like an Edelbrock, that would be a little better on finding parts, price, and that kind of stuff.

Anybody out there found anything (another brand of 2-barrel OR a good 4-barrel) that works in place of the BBD, or would it be best to just go back stock with another BBD?

Any advice or prior experience in this situation is greatly appreciated.
 

Corvette1974

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Pennington, NJ
How original do you want to stay? Cause If you want it to run well without much work, I'd just get an Edelbrock intake and Holley 4 barrel or even Edelbrock carb. More HP and simplicity.

Will
 

fslay0435

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As far as originality, I wouldn't be a bit concerned (personally) by installing a non-original carb and intake. I'm gonna make the interior and exterior original, but I'm not too worried about under-hood stuff.

My bottom line on the truck right now is 2-fold:

1. cost
2. reliability

I hate to spend $400 on a carb that is "original" when I have had a bad experience with one just like it. As long it cranks and runs good, and I spend the +/- $400 the best I can, I would be happy.

Any specific model numbers on an intake/carb?
 

MatthewH

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Boyne City Mi
Threw another local SS member, I bought a brand new direct bolt on Holley 2bbl carb off Ebay for $100. My old carter was starting to leak and have some issues. Couple hours later, had it back up and running, with no issues.
 

michigandon

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Go to RockAuto and order a Rochester for a ‘71? Valiant or Dart I think you will find it.

In 1971 there was a strike at the Carter Factory forcing them to use a Rochester carburetor for a brief period.
 

michigandon

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Wake Forest, NC
We have one of those Motorcraft carbs from that guy on eBay that was *supposedly* tuned for our truck. Never did get it to run satisfactorily. I haven’t totally given up on it though. Pretty sure the adapter that he sent with it was warped. I believe it’s a Mr Gasket #1309 that is the exact same thing?
 

Jericho

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Landaff NH
Likely a Holly two barrel 500 cfm, good carb , very tunable and can be rebuilt forever. good up to about 400 CI no problem, plenty of special part available , Jegs or summit have good discriptions I run one on a bored chevy 400 small block , good performance , good mileage.
 

michigandon

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The Holley 2280 was the late '70s/early '80s replacement for the Cater BBD. It would make for an okay retrofit as long as you got one without all the lean burn/spark control bullcrap on it.
 

cucvmule

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When I here fuel seeping from throttle shaft area I have to wonder that is a "lot" of fuel when it sucks more air when worn. Worn throttle shaft, hard to get idle, off idle air bleeds to work properly.

A lot of times when rebuilt with new needle and seat, put in without seeing if float to needle transition smoothly, and making sure that needle slides up and down properly without binding, more fuel continues to fill float bowl because needle stays in open or stuck condition. Sometime you can loosen by rapping carb with screwdriver handle, wooden handle at float bowl location.

Better fix that I do, take float back out, remove needle and emery cloth, jewelers rouge, and smooth or clearance the centering blades on the side of the needle to create a smoother moving needle. Just smoothing the contact area a little I have found lets the needle travel up and down better.

Also if you are off road inclined, on a steeeep hill, hillside sideways, lower float levels are needed to keep from flooding. That is when fuel injection is great, as long as fuel supply and pump can keep fuel to the injection unit.

YMMV but just some of my experiences through wheeling. Hopefully others will have some similar or better input to help.
 
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cucvmule

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I also believe that the 500 Holley is a great fuel metering device that is very reliable and can be tailored to many applications.
 

swdodge

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After rebuilding and replacing the stock Carter carb a couple of times, I went the e-pay route and got a Motorcraft 2150 with adapter plate. I have had good results. biggest issue is the truck is just a yard plow truck so does not get used alot.....
 

cucvmule

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The original carburetor is a fine and good design. Even a rebuilt carb properly cleaned with new maintenance parts will perform as the new one had. Blow out air passages good, then spray cleaner again, then air, repeat. The biggest problem is the reformulated fuels mandated by the government.

Fuel additive, I do not know how much you drive the MV in question, does help with keeping fuel from clogging up the small air bleeds. Or better yet buy real fuel from certain stations that sell race fuel, do not look at the price.

Older vehicles will and do require specific maintenance. But when operating properly puts a certain smile on your face.

As said before a bolt on intake and four barrel carb will add on ten to fifteen horsepower, as long as the rest of fuel system is void of any rust.

Good Luck, and get a locking fuel cap!

Rust in system whether in fuel tank, fuel lines or filters will give problems until corrected.
 

busbart

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Location
france
Those locking fuel caps are no good, Sorry, but I have bad experiences with them. I wish I still could get a new seal for my original fuel cap.
and rust in the tank, will be difficult with a plastic tank, unless it would come from the pick-up tube. or maybe the hardlines from the tank to the pump?.
 
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