M886 Commo Truck Build

nattieleather

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Cleveland, OH
Did you have the head side of the manifolds machined also to make sure you got a true seat and fit? Just wondering. Looking good. Keep up the good work!
 

m38inmaine

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Maine USA
No machine work, just sanded it clean and check it with a straight edge, all looked good. Finished the exhaust today then moved on to sandblasting and priming the air cleaner. Hold up now is the heater core, Amazon had one listed, just waiting for a delivery date.
 

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m38inmaine

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Maine USA
Heater core from Amazon was a fail, still no delivery date so I cancelled the order. Instead I found a similar core by looking through a heater core catalog, the core was the same size but different outlet lengths and no tin surround. I was able to sweat on standard copper pipe fittings to correct the tube locations, cut out a new piece of tin and used Loctite construction adhesive to secure it to the core. Of course once I had it installed I found out the heater control cables were trashed and the blower switch was broken. Also located a core support from an 86 truck, had to cut several spot welds and relocate transfer the hood latch and valance support bracket. Also had to relocate the headlight buckets slightly to match. Drained out the transfer case, as often done it was filled with gear oil, replaced with the correct 30 weight motor oil. Currently working on fabricating new heater cables and ordered a new switch. The newly refurbished air cleaner sitting proud on the old 318.
 

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m38inmaine

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Heater is all buttoned up and bolted down the core support. Sandblasted and primed the front bumper and filler/valence today. Drove the truck up and down my road a few times, a different ride compared to my M1010, having the rear body and cab attached, power steering works well. Next on the list is to replace the front left fender and get the grill and grill lighting back on. Purchased some new reverse lights, was going to just get new lenses but it was cheaper($4.97)to replace the whole unit. Also purchased two new tail light lenses. The lights on the M886 are standard Grote products. Also a company is reproducing the dome light lens, the original was spent.
 

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m38inmaine

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Sandblasted the rear light brackets and spare tire bracket, also had to fabricate one new "wing" for it as one was rotted pretty badly. Also installed new gas magnum shocks on the front, the PO installed new coil over shocks in the rear. I could not find original replacements for the rear marker lights so I replaced them with Grote "armored" marker lights.
 

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m38inmaine

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Rainy here today so can't do much in the way of body work so I decided to tie up some loose ends on the electrical. The truck had a cobbled up grill and lights when I got it, they cut the factory bulb sockets off so I got them from the core support donor truck, luckily the 86 socket had not changed from 77. As so often one of the ground tabs was broken from the socket, re soldered the ground tab and used some 3/4 marine shrink tube to replicate the original socket boot. Have working front marker/directional lights now. Got it insured today, will register it tomorrow then I can get some miles on it to see what else may need work.
 

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m38inmaine

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Maine USA
Drove the M886 yesterday for the first time on the road, made it back without issue. It shifts very smooth, the power steering is nice but seems too easy to steer, wondering if the original equipped PS trucks had a smaller wheel ? I have replaced about every bulb, seems either they were burnt out or half burnt out. Reverse lights do not work(new)so that's my next gremlin to fix. Looks like I can now get back to work on the paint and rear interior restoration.
 

m38inmaine

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Maine USA
No reverse lights mystery solved, the wire that supplies the voltage to the horn and reverse lights was broken free from the firewall connector on the inside. On the engine side the wire just pulled out, typical Dodge dodgy wiring. I drilled a hole through the firewall block and ran the wire directly through and re-connected. Now I have working backup lights and power to the horn. Now I need to troubleshoot the horn button, no ground to the horn. The truck looks much better now with the correct grill and no chrome.
 

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busbart

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Location
france
Super hot here today but a lot accomplished on the 886. Correct gasket for the manifold finally showed up(mis sorted by ups)so I could finish the manifold install. It seems a non emission type is not available so I had to make a block off plate for one end, the manifold came with the other two necessary plugs. I have all the new exhaust in place just need to tighten it all up. Replaced the firewall side of the heater box and installed the new blower motor and fan. Also installed tow bar adapters up front just in case. Next on the list is to sandblast and prime in the box, way too hot to suit up today. Some exhaust part numbers, Y pipe 40405, tail pipe 45656, tail ext. 42499, manifold gasket set MS90460, LH manifold 674-233, muffler 18142. The pipe from the y pipe to the muffler is discontinued, I repaired mine by welding new pieces on each end or you could have one made at a shop. You will also need 2 1/4 and 2 1/2 clamps and my need a couple of universal hangers depending on the condition of them.

Where did you get these parts? specially the manifold? did it came with the butterfly valve and spring?
 

m38inmaine

Active member
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Location
Maine USA
Dorman makes the manifolds, I did not replace the RH side with the valve and spring but Dorman does offer it. I purchased mine from Amazon. The gasket that came with the manifold was not correct for my application, correct gasket set noted in my post.

Raining here today so I will have to add pictures later. The horn section in the TM is very helpful, the problem was the ground path at the rag joint on the steering shaft, I need to clean the connection to get the correct ground path, confirmed by using a jumper wire from one side of the shaft to the other. I did pull the steering wheel and checked/cleaned the horn switch and contact ring. I also had a good 1/2" of in/out movement of the wheel, traced it down to a white plastic bushing just behind the upper rubber boot on the shaft, using a pickle fork I gently pried it back into the column, no more steering wheel end play. I also noticed the play on my M882, may be a common issue over time or trying to pull the steering wheel without a puller will cause the bushing to slide down.
 
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