It is sitting at Rudy's diesel performance. The egr cooler blew up causeing shards to get into the motor and break the coolant jackets inside. I have a destroyed cylinder wall and 2 bent rods. Too much money to fix the engine, and I don't have close to enough for a new motor. I was going to do a swap from a 5 ton into it but it'll be easier to bob a 5 ton and just drive that.
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M923 Bobber project
- Thread starter 350TacoZilla
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TurboMustang370
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Hmm. You have the truck at a good shop. I guess you had no way to monitor the engine temps? It takes ALONG time to pop an EGR cooler like that.
It was probably clogged when I bought it but I didn't get any lights, or codes. It ran fine to my motorpool one day and then it wouldn't start. It took everything we had to turn it over just once so I took it to Rudy's. Now I am gonna try and replce it with a 5 ton 
350TacoZilla
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Yeah I have seen 6.0's blow the one head gasket without the engine temp ever showing anything over normal operating temps, i think when the cooler clogs you get a hot spot at one or two cylinders but not enough for the gauge to show since the rest are still normal. i will say i dont think it would be possible to do this project for 2K since you will probably pay twice that for a good running truck that doesnt need 1K in work, then factor in fluids (since they run wrong fluid in trans)welding supplies,cutting supplies (I was serious,about 100 bucks in saw blades grinding wheels etc.) and if you plan on new wheels and tires (larger than stock or not).
I havent got much done with the truck here but hope to update over weekend possibly.
I havent got much done with the truck here but hope to update over weekend possibly.
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Well I have a slight advantage on my hands when it comes to the building process. A already have a garage filled with anything I could possibly need to build my bed. I also have about 90 gallons of 15/40 because of all the diesels I already have. the biggest expense is going to be the truck of course then next will be the time I use on it rather then my wood business. I work in a motorpool and on that particular road a lot of vehicles loose equipment because of the sharp corners. (Soldiers never double check anything these days). Thanks for the info on the 6.0, I wish you were there when I was shopping for one.
I'm about to pull the trigger on my own 923 bob and after re-reading your thread, do not see details of the intermediate axle swap. Does the top loading pig and all have to be removed while the housing is turned 180? It would seem to make the drive-shaft on the wrong side by just turning it around? Also, have you seen any air bag setups rather than springs?
350TacoZilla
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on the rear axle you do not have to spin it and depending on your truck you may not have to remove it, I have seen few 923's with the abs sensors on the intermediate axle and so I thought I would just pull rear most one out however my abs was on rear axle. If your abs is on the rear axle like mine was you simply remove the tandem setup/air lines,drive shafts etc and slide the axle forward to new spot it does not need turned either they are already on correct side. As for air ride yes I have seen that on few and turned out nice but was alot more work than I was looking for and I wanted a rear suspension I never had to work on again, I dont trust air bags offroad due to debris that can slice or puncture air bags.
I will also say that you could get around alot of work by letting the large X shaped crossmember in the frame but to me it was in way and was weight I didnt need to keep.
In picture the red line is about where I cut my frame off (since I also slid bed forward I could cut more off than most people do.) and blue arrow is the crossmember I am talking about, it is sleeved in frame and would have made it bit harder to cut frame down as well as putting the rear crossmember back in since it also slides inside the C-channel of the frame rail. I will say taking it out was a PAIN all the rivets have to be drilled,cut,punched etc to get them out and then you need to cut crossmember enough to get it out without hurting the air lines,electrical wires ETC.
I will also say that you could get around alot of work by letting the large X shaped crossmember in the frame but to me it was in way and was weight I didnt need to keep.
In picture the red line is about where I cut my frame off (since I also slid bed forward I could cut more off than most people do.) and blue arrow is the crossmember I am talking about, it is sleeved in frame and would have made it bit harder to cut frame down as well as putting the rear crossmember back in since it also slides inside the C-channel of the frame rail. I will say taking it out was a PAIN all the rivets have to be drilled,cut,punched etc to get them out and then you need to cut crossmember enough to get it out without hurting the air lines,electrical wires ETC.
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350TacoZilla
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Finally got my last michelin mounted up and got them on truck, took from 8am to 3pm lol. I had to have my dad use a 4 foot bar and a pipe wrench on the socket while I used impact with 2 air hoses T'd into it to get lug nuts off front. I really need to get wheels painted but thats for another day.
first pic is a old one then tried to get pic from same angle with new tires, last pic is one from my wifes cell.
first pic is a old one then tried to get pic from same angle with new tires, last pic is one from my wifes cell.
The 16's appear to about have a close, possible interference with the bed. Do you need a few spacer leaves to raise it a tad? Bet you would like a set of front lockouts..I do. Lockouts sure would make tight turns a lot cleaner on solid surfaces. Keep up the good work and have fun.
350TacoZilla
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Yeah I will be adding a block to rear anyhow since it sits little nose high right now, lockouts would be nice but at the price I dont think I'll ever have a set. I will say truck turns so much shorter now that its bobbed its amazing.
Can you use a few of the leaves that were from the prior spring pack or are they the wrong size? I doubt I will shorten one as far as you have yours, but I'm sure the cornering is vastly improved. Every time I turn mine in my gravel drive, I notice the inside tires chewing up the gravel. Makes me wonder if there is a posi-lock feature, at least on the back. At some time I'll delve into the TM to see. I went and looked and your right about the anti-lock brake sensors, they are on the rear axle, not the intermediate (solves that).
As I need a dump truck and the ones on GL seem to go for a premium, I'm having second thoughts about using the one with 11.00's to shorten and bob. I read a thread that says the 11's are better for hauling heavy loads.
Re rivets, I purchased the steel from a bridge recycle some time ago and have had to deal with rivets on steel I want to use in other projects. It may sound rather crude, but I have been cutting them out with a torch and have developed a way that seldom makes a problem for reuse. I take the head almost off, but not far enough to get into the steel below it. Then I heat in the very center and start a blow hole. Can't be timid at that point or it blows back in your face (why I use a full face shield and helmet). Once a hole is established, continue to the rivet sides, but being careful not to go too far. However getting a slightly larger hole is not a problem normally, as I'm usually using a larger bolt or welding. But it throws hot metal big time and one must have plenty of sheet metal guards in place to protect wiring, lines tires and all. I used to go the more cautious route like you do, ending with a punch out, but found any damage I did to the hole was quickly remedied with a larger bolt. Now I torch a slightly larger hole just for that purpose. If I didn't maintain a tip for a straight cut or starting a blow hole, I wouldn't do it that way. A pointed chipping hammer takes off any slobber. Just my 2 cents on rivets.
As I need a dump truck and the ones on GL seem to go for a premium, I'm having second thoughts about using the one with 11.00's to shorten and bob. I read a thread that says the 11's are better for hauling heavy loads.
Re rivets, I purchased the steel from a bridge recycle some time ago and have had to deal with rivets on steel I want to use in other projects. It may sound rather crude, but I have been cutting them out with a torch and have developed a way that seldom makes a problem for reuse. I take the head almost off, but not far enough to get into the steel below it. Then I heat in the very center and start a blow hole. Can't be timid at that point or it blows back in your face (why I use a full face shield and helmet). Once a hole is established, continue to the rivet sides, but being careful not to go too far. However getting a slightly larger hole is not a problem normally, as I'm usually using a larger bolt or welding. But it throws hot metal big time and one must have plenty of sheet metal guards in place to protect wiring, lines tires and all. I used to go the more cautious route like you do, ending with a punch out, but found any damage I did to the hole was quickly remedied with a larger bolt. Now I torch a slightly larger hole just for that purpose. If I didn't maintain a tip for a straight cut or starting a blow hole, I wouldn't do it that way. A pointed chipping hammer takes off any slobber. Just my 2 cents on rivets.
350TacoZilla
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I got rid of original setup but I do know they were wider spring and truck is already pretty heavy sprung in rear since springs are 5 ton fronts. The frame is actually nose down just a bit but with the larger front wheel wells it makes rear look like its sagging. (same springs and mounts front and rear but more weight on front) I think a mild sized block will be fine as I plan to make it out of solid bar stock steel and actually attach it to leaf pack as what they call a zero-rate add-a-leaf with new centering pin that goes through the block and spring rather than a block that just sits under spring and is clamped down by U-bolts.
On the tires , yeah I have also seen that about the 11.00's and had planned on keeping 6 of them for my truck to swap out tires but I didnt have luck selling them each so sold them as a lot. I did end up with about a 10' bed so truck isnt real short but is shorter overall by sliding bed forward also. I will say that the tire scrub was horrible before but I dont have lockers, I think its just all the weight and trying to pivot the truck on those 8 rear tires
On the rivets I usually cut the head off with sawzall and then drill or punch the rest out, that way I dont do damage around the rivet or do anything like melt wiring,ignite fuel, etc. I am pretty good with the red wrench and will use it to cut welds out if need be but prefer low temp controlled cuts for stuff like this.
On the tires , yeah I have also seen that about the 11.00's and had planned on keeping 6 of them for my truck to swap out tires but I didnt have luck selling them each so sold them as a lot. I did end up with about a 10' bed so truck isnt real short but is shorter overall by sliding bed forward also. I will say that the tire scrub was horrible before but I dont have lockers, I think its just all the weight and trying to pivot the truck on those 8 rear tires
On the rivets I usually cut the head off with sawzall and then drill or punch the rest out, that way I dont do damage around the rivet or do anything like melt wiring,ignite fuel, etc. I am pretty good with the red wrench and will use it to cut welds out if need be but prefer low temp controlled cuts for stuff like this.
I could see the frame was basically straight/level but the big front wheel wells and closeness of the bed make it look like the 16's could hit the bed. I hadn't checked mine to see the spring width, but thought it would be worth a try, not for more spring, but for a spacer to raise it up. But a solid block will be pretty much the same. Does the center bolt then go all the way through the spring pack and the spacer? Or you could make new shackles that are longer? Or both? How far up do you think you need to go to stay out of the bed cross frame? I guess that is based on the amount of travel possible before the axle hits the frame. There is a rubber pad on some trucks at that point... but that is because the spring is at the side of the frame, not directly under it. If you had a choice of any spring you want, would you choose the same one or could another truck spring work that has more curvature? I have a truck salvage yard not too far away that I could get parts from about any type truck. And there is a good new spring business in Fort Wayne that would make anything I want from parts...at a reasonable price (we have bought others there exactly to our specs).
350TacoZilla
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I honestly dont know if the tires would even hit the bed, I have same bump stops in back as up front so I only have few inches of up travel, also the way I cut bed was I cut all the length out of the front of bed then just re-attached the headboard so the large crossmember that was between the axles before is now above the tool box and gas tank(well forward of where it used to be).
Yes the center bolt gets replaced with a longer one that goes all the way through the block and the spring (much safer than standard block and you can replaced the grade 5 pin with a grade 8 allen bolt with same diameter head and threads for strength).
If I did it again I would do it same way for couple reasons, main being the rear is a exact match of front so spare parts could easily be used for either end and if you have to modify parts from a OVR truck to fit then you would have to modify the replacements also should you ever need to replace anything.
Yes the center bolt gets replaced with a longer one that goes all the way through the block and the spring (much safer than standard block and you can replaced the grade 5 pin with a grade 8 allen bolt with same diameter head and threads for strength).
If I did it again I would do it same way for couple reasons, main being the rear is a exact match of front so spare parts could easily be used for either end and if you have to modify parts from a OVR truck to fit then you would have to modify the replacements also should you ever need to replace anything.
350TacoZilla
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eh I dunno about almost done with it lol atleast all the big stuff is done, now I'm going to be doing some smaller stuff like cutting down bed sides (finally got my welder gas bottle filled) adding mud flaps, sealing cab up little better,moving batteries etc etc lol
Or perhaps the never ending battle with paint and rust. But from the looks of your buildings in the background, you can keep it inside.
My business has not been up for several years. I bought 43 acres but now can't seem to get a shop up. Thieves aligning with the local legal establishment (judge(s) and lawyers) has also been a problem. A $70k loss a few years back makes recovery difficult. Such is America now apparently.
My business has not been up for several years. I bought 43 acres but now can't seem to get a shop up. Thieves aligning with the local legal establishment (judge(s) and lawyers) has also been a problem. A $70k loss a few years back makes recovery difficult. Such is America now apparently.
350TacoZilla
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yeah these pics are all at my parents house out in countryside I live on outskirts of town on dead end rd but still had problem with people turning me in for working on my house then problems with permits, then town says ok for one thing county says no etc. so I decided to keep truck at parents while working on it, once it is tagged and I can move it around legally it will be coming home lol.
350TacoZilla
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Ok so I got the bedsides both cut/welded and installed yesterday along with a .5" solid plate spacer for rear springs before deciding it was way too hot out.
LOL "it was way too hot out"...yea that's when I'm doing the hottest cutting/welding job I can find (not on purpose...just works that way). I think karma has something to do with it.
Did you only space up 1/2"? I thought you might go 1 1/2".
I'm started on making a 923 cargo into a dump. The issue with duals carrying a heavy load made me rethink bobbing it. I need a dump and can bob another one with 14.00 singles (later).
Did you only space up 1/2"? I thought you might go 1 1/2".
I'm started on making a 923 cargo into a dump. The issue with duals carrying a heavy load made me rethink bobbing it. I need a dump and can bob another one with 14.00 singles (later).