The larger wheels will only be a problem during an inflation. If the compressor output is low such as at idle the system may log a slow inflation fault. Just run the engine at high idle or higher.Glad this thread is back up near the top, I need to start trouble shooting mine again (never did get it working, I think it is electrical as I have never heard it even do a pressure check).
The other question is it is worth trying to make the system work with HEMTT wheels and 16.00's?? Has anyone rigged up a system to work?
The plumbing is different as well, or so I am told. It may take a few different fittings or hoses to get it to work.The larger wheels will only be a problem during an inflation. If the compressor output is low such as at idle the system may log a slow inflation fault. Just run the engine at high idle or higher.
Yes, get the blinkers after this happens. Great idea on the bolt. I have just been disconnecting the ctis box after air up. BUT...that seems to disable the high speed light as well as the governor on the rpm side.Those seals aren't the greatest and get loose over time, allowing the wheel valve assembly to slide outwards as you've seen. If it comes off like you have shown, it should give you the 5 blinking lights on the CTIS computer.
I think some people have used short pieces of heater hose to replace the seals. I found an idea on here where someone drilled a hole in the shield outboard of the wheel valve and put a back up bolt that hits against the inside of the wheel so that even if the seals get loose, the valves can't get pushed outwards. If you need a picture of it, I can try to remember to take one for you tonight.
That looks for all the world like tire SLIME used on bicycles...So I decided last night to check them all and then test the manual valve stems. This one tire I have never had an issue with and never needs air, sprayed this goo out of the valve stem. Has no distinct smell. Thought maybe oil and water?? But does not stink.
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