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M939 Inconsistent air pressure...

The HUlk

Member
469
7
18
Location
Cincy, OH
I just purchased a M931A1 (2010 RRAD rebuild) and am having flakey air pressure issues. Being new to these vehicles and never having troubleshot Diesel/Air Brakes, I am not sure what "correct" is regarding air building and pressure fuxuation. However I believe what I am experiencing is incorrect and will explain what I have experienced in the hopes of receiving some guidance from the good folks here...

I picked up the truck in the Jacksonville, FL area. I never measured the length of time, but would guess it took about 30 sec. to a minute for the air to build to 90 PSI and not long after make it's way to 120 PSI and hold there unless frequently braking. Both primary and secondary gauges would build at the same rate, which seemed "correct" to me.

I took it on a three mile test drive and the air pressure stayed high the entire. time. Then I drove it five miles to pick up a trailer and noticed no change in the air performance.

Then I began the over 500 mile trip to Cincinnati, about 25 miles down the road I had to stop to better arrange some cargo and left the truck idling while I did so. When I got back into truck about 5 minutes later the air was about 35 PSI on both tanks and wouldn't build.

Checking around the vehicle with it running I noticed air spurting out the opening on the bottom of the air dryer?(coffee can sized object in the center behind the transmission?)

I covered the hole with my hand and low and behold the pressure started to build. Took my hand off and it kept building up like normal. The truck made the entire rest of the trip with seemingly normal air building and pressure maintaining performance. Even through hundreds of miles of mountain grades.

Yesterday I drove it 40 miles to it's long term location. During that drive I watched the gauges closely because my warning box is inoperative and there is no low air alarm. I noticed at one point, with no braking to drain air, the secondary was at 90 PSI and the primary was at 35 PSI!? I was planning to pull over to check for spurting air below, and then both tanks pumped back up to 120 PSI and remained there.

Then about one half mile before the destination, braking downhill to a traffic light, both primary and secondary are at 35 PSI at the light and won't build. I put the parking brake and flashers on, check for spurting below and there is none like before when the air went down on the long trip. Holding my hand over the hole does nothing and I don't feel pressure like before. I walk around, check under the hood and don't hear/see any obvious air leak, however the tanks were basically empty by then.

I hooked up air to a tank on the left where the bleeding line comes in and pressurize the tank so I can get it a half mile down the road. The secondary was at 90 PSI, and I think the primary was zero or not much higher. I start driving it and low and behold it starts building, right up to 120 PSI?! I parked it and walked away scratching my head. :confused:

Thoughts?
 

todds112

Member
672
5
18
Location
Teton Valley, ID
Sounds like the valve is sticking up inside your air dryer. The outlet where your finger was covering it. The valve up inside there can get cruddy and stick open causing air not to build up. When the governor hits about 130 PSI, it should dump there and give the loud "Psssssst". The valve should close and the system should start to build pressure again. Sounds like yours is hanging up sporadically. I would start there. The whole dryer might need serviced/replaced. Brand new style dryers are available from vendors here for cheaper than a service kit.
 

The HUlk

Member
469
7
18
Location
Cincy, OH
Sounds like the valve is sticking up inside your air dryer. The outlet where your finger was covering it. The valve up inside there can get cruddy and stick open causing air not to build up. When the governor hits about 130 PSI, it should dump there and give the loud "Psssssst". The valve should close and the system should start to build pressure again. Sounds like yours is hanging up sporadically. I would start there. The whole dryer might need serviced/replaced. Brand new style dryers are available from vendors here for cheaper than a service kit.
Thank you for your reply, I figured the dryer is suspect.

So I should pull the dryer and clean it out? Is there a rebuild kit? I would like to maintain the original parts as much as possible.

Also I should mention that before adding air to get pressure built up, the governor tube was removed from the compressor, still didn't build air, cracked the compressor output tube, and there was no observable pressure there. Not sure if this is normal. Tightened up the compressor output and left the governor tube disconnected, then after the tanks were filled from an external source and I started down the road, it built up to 120 like nothing was wrong.
 

98G

Former SSG
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Try removing the governor tube from the compressor and blow that out with compressed air. You may have condensation in there. I've also squirted WD40 in there, but I'm not sure if that's a good idea or not.

You've probably got multiple things going on at once with your air system. Probably condensation all through it.

Rebuilding your air dryer or replacement with one of the MRAP dryers sold on SS is a good idea. Those aren't quite OEM but they're close enough...
 

The HUlk

Member
469
7
18
Location
Cincy, OH
Try removing the governor tube from the compressor and blow that out with compressed air. You may have condensation in there. I've also squirted WD40 in there, but I'm not sure if that's a good idea or not.

You've probably got multiple things going on at once with your air system. Probably condensation all through it.

Rebuilding your air dryer or replacement with one of the MRAP dryers sold on SS is a good idea. Those aren't quite OEM but they're close enough...
I'd remove the governor and clean/rebuild it at the same time I do the dryer.

Where's the place to get kits?
 

The HUlk

Member
469
7
18
Location
Cincy, OH
You may have water on top of your compressor also....
Can anyone out there advise me on how to check for and remove air on top of the compressor as mentioned above?

I have a newer MRAP dryer and a new govenor on the way and will be installing them before the truck is driven.

Should I open up the bleeder ports and blow air through the system during the install of these parts? Should I put a few drops of oil before blowing it out to offer lubrication?

Looking for guidance, thank you all for your suppport!
 

The HUlk

Member
469
7
18
Location
Cincy, OH
Thanks to all for your replies.

I replaced the air dryer with the newer "Purest" type. Had to swap the stock governor fitting with the one from the original because the threads were different. About a half ounce of water drained out of the old air dryer governor port when I had it on the bench removing fittings.

Also replaced governor located on the motor side of the firewall. Started it up and it builds to 120 in both primary and secondary then blows off and holds there. If you repeatedly hit the brake it starts building again at about 90. I'm hoping this will solve the air fluctuating air pressure. Time will tell.
 

dawico

Member
728
1
18
Location
Lampasas,TX
Thanks to all for your replies.

I replaced the air dryer with the newer "Purest" type. Had to swap the stock governor fitting with the one from the original because the threads were different. About a half ounce of water drained out of the old air dryer governor port when I had it on the bench removing fittings.

Also replaced governor located on the motor side of the firewall. Started it up and it builds to 120 in both primary and secondary then blows off and holds there. If you repeatedly hit the brake it starts building again at about 90. I'm hoping this will solve the air fluctuating air pressure. Time will tell.
Good deal. Sounds like it is working for you.
 

The HUlk

Member
469
7
18
Location
Cincy, OH
UPDATE: My air pressure troubles are not over:(

I started it up today and it built up to 120. Drove it down to the fuel station with no problems. Drove about 20 miles to the house and had 90 to 120 until I got about 2 minutes from the house, then the primary drops below 90, and slowly continues dropping to 0. The secondary followed but stayed higher then the primary and I got home with about 30 in the secondary and 0 in the primary. I noticed when it seemed to be acting "normal", the primary was usually lower than the secondary i.e. primary 95, secondary 120?

The pattern seems to be such that it builds air well on a cold start and loses the ability to build/hold pressure after driving(warmed up?).

I'm not sure where to go from here other than building pressure to 120, shutting it down, and listening for leaks, along with hitting the unloader and other air tubes and plumbing parts with soapy water and putting a little oil in the unloaded governor port. I'll report back after that.

We are trying to have it ready for two local Fourth of July parades on Friday. This is starting to feel like we are trapped in a silly reality TV show:-?
 
Last edited:

quickfarms

Active member
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24
38
Location
Orange Junction, CA
Legally the vehicle is out of service and should not be driven if the low pressure buzzer is not working.

If your air pressure is really dropping that low the brakes should apply automatically around 45 psi and if the primary gets below that the spring brakes should self apply.

Are your brakes properly adjusted?

Have you drained all the tanks to see if there is any water or crud in them.

Have you performed the COLA air brake test on the vehicle. It should be part of your pre trip.

You could have a relay valve or foot valve that is sticking.

My advice is to charge the truck with shop air and try to get it to leak down do you have a chance to find the culprit with the engine running.
 

98G

Former SSG
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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I begin to question your gauges. Your springbrakes should have applied and you should have stopped involuntarily.... you don't have cage bolts in place do you?

I second the suggestion to pressurize the system from an external source and go leak hunting. ...
 

therooster2001

Active member
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Location
Colorado
Definitely do the COLA test. Definitely air the truck up, I'd suggest without it running, it's easier to hear. Do so through the emergency glad-hand. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...xternal-source I just had a similar but more straightforward experience, it was venting through the stack. Easier. I am assuming you loose the air when you brake, not when it's running. Get Soldier B to help. If it's the brakes, listen for the stack vent, or listen at each brake canister. Advise us of the caged brakes, that's a massive indicator. If that passes and you are losing air or not building air when running, check the threads for the air compressor stuff. I haven't tackled that yet, but the guys have. LOTS of good info on here already. Try to be methodical.
 

The HUlk

Member
469
7
18
Location
Cincy, OH
Thank you folks for the excellent tips, questions, and for supporting me during my learning curve.


I haven't done a COLA test but will find the procedure and will not drive it until it will pass. I'm guessing it's in the -10 manual.


A new buzzer unit is on the way and I will have that working before driving it as well.


After installing the new dryer and governor I drained the tanks at full pressure using the petcocks behind the cab on the passenger side. If there is a better way to do this and inspect please advise how.


Looking around this evening I noticed brittle & broken small air tubing in what I believe are the fuel tank vent lines. The bad spot was behind the cab, driver side on the outer frame rail at what looks to be a tee fitting. If I remember correctly one line from the tee runs up the outside of the engine intake stack to a U at the top. Another line from the tee runs to a fitting on the top front center of the driver side fuel tank. My guess is the third line from the tee runs to the left side fuel tank. This damaged tubing will be resolved before starting the vehicle. I am also going to have a close look at the rest of the tubing around the truck looking for weakness such as this.


I honestly wouldn't recognize a cage bolt if I seen one or knew exactly where to look. I have not put any cage bolt(s) in, nor do I believe the fellow I got the truck from did. He's not the type who would defeat any safety features, and he got it from the government. Unless it was done without his knowledge, in shipping perhaps? Is there a thread, photo, or manual page which shows how to identify an installed cage bolt(s)?


I believe the gauges are fine and the spring brakes are working. The truck will not move if the air is lower than 30 or so. When I said it was at 30 when I got home in my previous post, I meant when hitting the brakes for the last time while parking was when it dropped to 30, and I could feel the spring brakes begin resisting as it came to a stop. After that I couldn't have moved the truck without adding air. Silver lining, it made it home:)


I stopped two times on the trip today, got fuel, lunch, etc. Also hit several traffic lights. No problems seemingly. The primary was fluctuating between 120 & 90 when braking, secondary was holding higher usually at or near 120. Then as I'm hitting the brakes to pull onto my street the pressure starts sinking in the primary, then the secondary starts sinking as if the compressor is not supplying air. After it was parked and no foot on the brake, the air pressure would not build.


The truck is a 1981 M931A1 and had a RRAD service in 8-2010. The cummins 250 engine data plate in front of the compressor has 8-10 stamped in the date code area. Is it safe to say the engine & compressor were manufactured in 8-2010? Wondering how old the compressor and engine are?


Game Plan (comments welcome):


I am fairly certain when I start it again cold it will build to 120 and hold there with no external air source needed. Every time I have started it cold it has always built pressure. If it will not build when I start it, I'll shut it down, pressurize it with external air, and have someone hit the brakes as I go about listening for leaks near the brake canisters and spraying soapy water along the various tubing & fittings looking for leaks.


If it does build, I'll leave it running, close off the valves after the wet tank to isolate the air supply section of the system, then periodically bleed out the wet tank air with the petcock to cycle the supply system and see if I can get it to fail? If it fails, then remove the governor line at the unloader and see if it builds? If it doesn't build then remove the compressor output line to see if it's pumping? If it's not pumping then service the unloader and retest.
 

dawico

Member
728
1
18
Location
Lampasas,TX
If it builds air cold but stops maintaining air pressure while running I would skip looking for leaks personally. I would jump right on the compressor/ unloader/ governor.

In fact, I would pull the line off the top of the unloader (coming from the governor) and put a few drops of air tool oil or transmission fluid in before even starting it.

I may be barking up the wrong tree but in my experience unloaders sticking seems to be a common problem recently.
 
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