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M998 Front Differential

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
Update: New half shaft arrived. Went to remove the old half shaft and there were only 3 threads of the bolt still on the wheel side of the shaft. That bolt was close to falling off. (silently complaining about the guy who performed last maint on this vehicle)
Installed the new half shaft on the wheel side (and used loctite) but unfortunately I'm back to the same issue. The half shaft will not clear the brake rotor (I'm lacking about 1/2" clearance or so)
Accepting any additional advise from the board
 

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
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Did you by chance remove the diff from the truck and reinstall?
Did you buy an NOS shaft or aftermarket Chinese?
I would loosen all the upper hangar bolts on the diff, as well as the rear support plate, recenter the diff, sounds like it’s to far to one side.ive seen this before.
 

911joeblow

Active member
507
68
28
Location
Utah
Did you by chance remove the diff from the truck and reinstall?
Did you buy an NOS shaft or aftermarket Chinese?
I would loosen all the upper hangar bolts on the diff, as well as the rear support plate, recenter the diff, sounds like it’s to far to one side.ive seen this before.
Take a look at your alignment shims too. Do you have a large stack over there?
 

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
Did you by chance remove the diff from the truck and reinstall?
Did you buy an NOS shaft or aftermarket Chinese?
I would loosen all the upper hangar bolts on the diff, as well as the rear support plate, recenter the diff, sounds like it’s to far to one side.ive seen this before.
Not sure on the maker of the shaft but appears to be NOS, there is green lettering on the shaft with NSN and part number identified

I'm in agreement that the pumpkin must be shifted to the left, causing my assembly difficulty, and will follow your advise tomorrow. I don't recall any play in the differential hangers to allow for shifting one direction or another but at this point I will give it a shot, thanks
 

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
I took Retiredwarhorse's advice and loosened the differential hangers and rear support plate and kicked the assembly to the right that fraction I needed to make it all go together. I also removed the front bumper to give better access to everything (wish I had thought of that earlier on in the job. Thank everyone who put their 2 cents worth into this thread. Time to bleed the brakes and test drive

IMG_20180707_123633419.jpgIMG_20180707_123611384.jpg
 

Slabofmeat

New member
4
2
3
Location
Irvine
If when you pull a Halfshaft and you get 80-90GO between the HS and Rotor, it’s the stub axle flange seal Early version was just several o-rings stuffed in there, now it’s a specific seal. I still put a bead of rtv on the face of the nut when I install them as double protection.
Hello retiredwarhorses,
I am new to this whole world of military mechanics but own a m998... I am learning as I go and reading a lot of comments taking in all the info I can, I really appreciate everyone on here sharing their knowledge :)
I have a lot of play in my front differential on both sides where the half shafts connect with the disc rotors and the differential with the 6 bolts, (the bolts are tight) I checked the fluid (little dirty) but has fluid... and not leaking, the rear differential is tight with no play, I'm assuming this play is not normal and needs to be addressed.... should I start by taking off the half shafts?
 

osteo16

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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570
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Location
Evansville, IN
Hello retiredwarhorses,
I am new to this whole world of military mechanics but own a m998... I am learning as I go and reading a lot of comments taking in all the info I can, I really appreciate everyone on here sharing their knowledge :)
I have a lot of play in my front differential on both sides where the half shafts connect with the disc rotors and the differential with the 6 bolts, (the bolts are tight) I checked the fluid (little dirty) but has fluid... and not leaking, the rear differential is tight with no play, I'm assuming this play is not normal and needs to be addressed.... should I start by taking off the half shafts?
SLAB..

Might be best to start a new thread of your own.. It will limit cross contamination and save you am earful of "high jacking lingo" ... Best of luck with your 998,,, Post a thread, you will get some responses if your question is logical and worthy and not easily answered by looking at the TMs..

Ocho
 

Slabofmeat

New member
4
2
3
Location
Irvine
Use one each, and put together dry...swipe some good RTV sealant around star washer / axle spline then install & tighten nut.
I've been having a hard time trying to find, what should the flange shaft nut be torqued to? I heard between 165 and 190 foot pounds but cant find where I read or heard this, definitely dont want it to be too tight and destroy the bearings...
 

Armed Trooper

New member
9
0
3
Location
Hampton, NJ
Does the star washer go on the spline before you put on the output flange or does it go against the nut that holds the output flange in place? It was installed differently on each side. Thank you!
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Papalote, TX
It should be clear in the TM, it goes after the flange and before the nut, I thought there was a flat washer and a star seal
 
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