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Making my Deuce into a Van

uriss

New member
90
0
0
Location
French Settlement,La.
From the couple of requests, one asking for more pictures and details, well here goes. I am no expert carpenter but have worked on a few wooden boats in my day. That is important for the reason that my cargo box still has a few bends in the body. That would probably drive any Carpenter nuts trying to "square" corners up. To rehash a lil of my last post, I had wanted a van body. Those that I bid on were a bit over what I could afford. I noticed though that those bodies were already in various stages of wood rot and decay. I figured out the cost and since I wanted a little more room built my own. Started by using a drill with a wire brush to clean all the hard to get to rust. Then switched to a disc sander to clean up the rusty flat spots. Gave the whole inside of the bed a good coat of the rust paint with fishoil already mixed in. (I find that brand works best even many years down the road on other projects the rust didn't come back) Next I figured my height inside and kept it around eighty inches. From there I cut two by fours to fit the stake holes in the cargo bed. As you will see in the pictures I then doubled every board. At the base of the addition there is about a one inch or so over hang. That will have some foam insulation sheeting cut to fit the cargo bed sides and with the rest of the inside wall insulated have quarter inch luan over it. As I progress (hopefully this weather will clear) I shall update the build. Side note. I am putting it together using a nail gun but a neccessary addition of going back and screwing together all the nailed areas. Like a boat this body moves around and the screws make a better job of keeping it together. Some good exterior glue wouldn't hurt either.24236.jpgSUNP0029.JPGSUNP0025.JPGSUNP0007.JPGSUNP0010.JPGSUNP0012.JPGOnce I put in the side windows from a parts rv I will also enlarge the slide window in the cab so as to have direct access. The area directly above the cab will double as storage and also a berth.
One other item is the paint. I went to Lowes where I found the Valspar Duramax "pine bough" green is an almost perfect match for the original body color.

You are right as far as the off road beating! Friend of mine gave me a roll of commercial grade fiberglas cloth, the type they use for repairing boats on the missisippi river and I used that for all the joints on the roof. I might even do the whole roof with it if I don't lay lead and canvas over it. You can expect shift and seam expousure on the sides and that is why I have used one by four trim to cover the side joints. Everything on top between the roof and trim has gorilla hair fiberglas to prevent any water from coming in. Here in Louisiana my big concern is all the rain which has not been an issue at all. I have thought about having spray on foam insulation done. Had a through the hull fitting on a bass boat replaced by some extended a foam can insulation that covered a big hole which lasted for a long time under water. So I figure the commercial grade stuff would do double duty. Will let ya know which one I go with. Reason for the flat roof is that I am putting in solar panels and maybe a roof top a/c unit (if I don't just hang a 110 off the back) as well as having a deck to stand on during events and such.
 
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Scarecrow1

New member
1,355
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Location
Florence , S.C.
Nice build ! I have entertained the idea of doing the same thing to my 5ton . I know it has been done in the military also, because I have seen some for sale. I noted on the military ones they rounded over the corners and I believe the top had a gradual round over on top . Let us know how the flat top works out this winter and spring. I have built a number of boats also and even had my own cabinet and custom wood working shop. The only thing I don't like is the fact of the beating these things take off road. Even with glue and chalking I fear it would separate the joints. thanks for the pics
 

FatBuddhaBoo

Member
330
8
18
Location
Jacksonville, Fl
Looks pretty good. :beer:

I originally wanted a M109 to convert it into a camper, but after spending some time on here decided I wanted a crew cab as well. My concept was to crew cab the M109, but then decided it's be too much of a pain to remove the box to add the cab, but the box, etc. So I bought a M35A2 to crew cab, then will build the box/camper section afterwards.

Was your choice of wood a matter of cost or just ease of working with the material (ie no welding involved)? How much of a gap is between the cab over and cab?

I'll probably still do mine from metal, as I have a radical concept in mind for the camper to have fold down sides which will expand the "living space".
 
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