Manifold Flap Stuck- that ani't all....

[knattrass]

Here we go.... picked the head up from the machine shop surfaced and baked clean-they even buffed the s/plugs. Here's my checklist for comments:
1. Head - will prime and paint original silver with hi temp engine paint.
2. Intake - will have baked clean and paint as well - no powder coat (thanks!)
3. Exh Man - no bake or p/c (yes?) - my flap is stuck-any ideas to free it?
4. Carb - off to Jim Wallace for rehab(like Britney)
5. Fuel Pump - off to Then/Now for rehab, plus sent a core back up. Since I am going with elec wipers, Sid has a pump only/no vac pump for me. Thinking selling rehabs.
6. Gaskets - off to NAPA for a complete engine set, or should I buy ala carte?
7. Copper Spray - for head gasket. Any magic for putting on?
8. Hi temp thread sealant - I know to seal the bottom couple of threads
9. Head bolts - some rusty, soaking them in phosphoric, should I paint them or leave bare?
10. Manuals -got manuals and will read up b/4 diving in. Got to go buy a torque wrench -did I tell you we've never done this b/4?
11. Block - got carbon. folks say use a wire brush cyl by cyl and cover the ones not being brushed. Any cleaners or magic lub to use, or is this a dry affair? figured we crank the engine to bring the cyl up and make sure the valves are shut. any other ideas?
12. Coolant - stop cock on left side appears plugged. Was going to coat hanger the port or pipe cleaner. Once I get the engine back, i figured a power flush is in order.

If you get time to reply to my rambling, I would appreciate it.

Thanks in advance - Keith

 

[Jones]

RE: Manifold Flap Stuck- that ani

Sounds like you're on the right track. Here's some points for you to consider;
Behind the water pump there's a sheet metal "water distribution tube" that runs inside the block to the rear and makes sure coolant gets circulated all the way to the back of the engine. Make sure you put a new one in-- it'll save you grief from overheating your freshly rebuilt engine. They're often rotten and come out in pieces so campare to the new one to make sure you get it all.
A short piece of speedometer cable in your electric drill makes a good mini roto-rooter (MAKE SURE YOU SPIN IT THE RIGHT DIRECTION!, so the outer wrap doesn't unwind and create a wad of wire).
Soak the exhaust manifold flap in Liquid Wrench, Kroil, or get some Automatic Choke Cleaner from your Dodge dealer. Tapping GENTLY around it will help shake it loose and encourage the penetrant do get into every spot-- give it some time and it should free up.

 

[Knucklehead]

RE: Manifold Flap Stuck- that ani

If I may make a suggestion to you. Do not mess with old head bolts as they stretch and the metal chrystalizes. Invest a few bucks in some new grade 8 bolts.The bolts used in the 230-251 family are not special and can be obtained at a good hardware supplier. I assume that the carbon on the block is around the exhaust ports? Use scotchbrite type pads to remove the carbon and stuff a rag into the port to keep the crud out.

 

[knattrass]

RE: Manifold Flap Stuck- that ani

Bolts are a great idea - would it be ok to use the tapped head ones? The ones with the threaded hole for the attachment of the oil filter (2), and vent lines (2)? For some odd reason I have a total of 6 of these all in the wrong locations which led us to know that the block had been worked on. I can't find a use for the other 2? So tell me if its ok to mix old/new. Thanks.

 

[rosco]

RE: Manifold Flap Stuck- that ani

I ran one of these for years.. I would really, really suggest that you check the block for flat, especially the head too. The head was out .017 & the block was .006 out the other way. While I was at it, I had both manifolds milled flat. When you re-assemble them, only snug the two togeather, then torque them in several steps, to the block, then tighten the intake/exhaust togeather.

I re-used the head bolts. You about have to on the drilled ones. I clean & buffed the threads. Also, run a tap into the holes, to make sure they are clean too. As above, make sure the block is clean. I also clean all the oil passage ports. Be sure to check the thrust & at least use a plasti-guage, on each inserts. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE INSERTS ALIGNED WITH THE OIL HOLES ALIGNED WITH THE HOLES IN THE BLOCK/RODS! I like to check the oil pump, or even buy a NEW one.

There is more, but I have to get back to work.

Lee in Alaska

 

[knattrass]

Here it is...

[http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/gg109/znattrass/?action=view&current=DCP_4233-1.jpg]

 

[knattrass]

Now what the heck????? Ok- photos are starting to really ......... i resized to correct numbers but the darned thing only shows the link not a photo.... can someone give me a clue? Or do I have to buy a vowel?

 

[knattrass]